ScaredSilly

Where did you bivy? On the east or west side of the crest? The sites are next to the rock on the east side which depending on the snow year could be drifted in. So having to dig out a site is not all that surprising. BTW was that 10.5 hours from St. Elmo or White River? For the lower ridge, one never goes very far down from the ridge crest to by pass drops. We back tracked a few times to the west to avoid rappelling but rarely dropping down very far. How did you retreat? Back along the ridge? The one west side rappel is typically a point of no return. So I am curious how you got around it. At one point at Sea-Tac there was an arial photo of the ridge. The photo gives a great perspective. As for the photos - bring them up in your gallery full size then Ctrl-right click on the image to bring up the menu and get the "Image Address". Paste that in the html. Looking forward to seeing them

I should note that the vestibule and ground cloth are new. I have been using another ground cloth with it in the past. A couple of photos:

I have a rare two door Bibler (Back Diamond) I-Tent for sale. This tent is the tent for alpine climbing. I have owned several Bibler tents going back 20 plus years. I have used them all over the world for climbs. It is complete with the vestibule and the ground cloth ($900 as new). It is in excellent shape (no holes, repairs, etc). With few exception is it has been exclusively used on snow. All for $450 shipped CONUS.

Parking lot bivies are the normal at Timberline. Just check to be sure you are in the overnight parking area.

Nice little ski tour!!

What no picnic on the Queen's Chair?? Ya gotta stop there at least for the views. BTW a couple of years ago we camped at the saddle, did Leuthold one day then Sandy Glacier Headwall the next. That was good fun.

The Pearly Gates have never needed two tools. Yeah it can be steep but it is a short step. Folks need to up their skills.

It is all training - just haul all yer crap with ya.

When one is in a public area there is no expectation of privacy. So post the mug shot. (That said, this is a private forum so the site owners can have their own rules). Also if you are sure of who the person was associated with send them and/or the organization a polite note as well. I have had good success doing that on various issues. With all crap floppy about on his back in addition to two tools he probably should have been belayed.

Article updated: 2 Airlifted Off Mount Rainier, 1 Presumed Dead

Two stuck at Muir - one unknown: http://www.opb.org/news/article/mount-rainier-washington-rescue-snow/

I know site owners do not like this software (and some block those using it) but it helps prevent butt chaffing. https://adblockplus.org

Great history summation. But I wonder if Barbara Washburn ever realized Brad climbed Mt. Bertha with a Martha Washburn. Especially, given it was their honeymoon ???

In general for the Alaska Range mid May through mid June is the preferred time frame.

Well said, the old guard just did things that are rarely repeated to day.

Though the temps might be around 0 at best bring the -20 bag. You can always open it up a bit. As others have said, bring lots of good food and eat well. Bring a tent for each person/couple, chairs, also it might sound silly a cooler to keep things from really freezing.

Seeing those bring back memories. I hope you flipped through the pages on last time. Mtn Review started right after Mountain went away. Seems like those of us with a subscription to Mountain with issues left got it put towards a subscription to Mtn. Review. The UK rags were always better than the US rags.

Doug was the ACC President: http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ef7899d23d&e=06b0bc1dee

I have never been sled user, instead using drag bags. A good source for a bag is your local home brew shop. The 25 kilo sacs for grain make excellent drag bags. They are also great bags for dumping stuff into around camp.

Do not forget to add in the $30 base camp fee and the 5% Federal tax for yer flight. As for the NPS fee, on my next trip we will fly in and check things out before deciding on our objective.

Down climbing???? Should have bum slid that sucker - way more fun.

I think it is great when there is gear like steel biners that make it easy for everyone. An my props to those who spend the extra $$$. But I agree I would rather setup my own anchor and use the gear for rapping off just so it lasts longer. That said if being a bit lazy I might just clip and go. No, many do not.

NIce pano shot - and good on ya for going through the Pearly Gates.

While we all call them harnesses they are actually called sit harnesses with the goal being to place one in a sitting position when used. Such a position places the "least" amount of stress on a person's body. Running the rope through the waist and belay loop ain't going to anything more than running the rope through just the waist loop. That is because the belay loop is never going to be loaded. So while one may be in a more vertical position most of the load will be at waist rather than at the waist and legs. As for Todd's death - it was the belay loop that failed.

It will be interesting to learn more: http://www.kptv.com/story/30628266/teams-work-to-rescue-two-oregon-climbers-on-mt-jefferson