ScaredSilly

I thought folks might find this add from 1961 to be rather amusing.

Damn, I figured it was going to like 2006.

Three items - map, compass, and altimeter. A GPS is optional and can fail. I am not a big fan of them in most cases. An additional tool, study pictures of the route. Look for key navigational points, rocks, seracs, etc. In this day of instance photos aka a digital camera take photos and use them. The other is when going up - turn around and look at where you have been, it may be the way back. In a nasty white out watch and note the snow consistency the ground around ridgelines. It will often change from the leeway to the windward side. Learning how to walk the fine line between the two may keep you from walking off a cornice.

If you want a poly hammer there are two on ebay now. Neither are mine or do I have interest in the auctions.

Funny a couple of years ago Stanley went with us up Rainier. He was a stud on the Mowich.

A better bet would be one of the Chouinard Polypro handle tools. I have used one for many years. They come up for sale here and there: http://cgi.ebay.com/Chouinard-Ice-Pick_W0QQitemZ190261498667QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item190261498667&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A13%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 Although if you are lucky you can find the wood handle ones for well under $100: http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Chouinard-Alpine-Hammer-Ice-Hammer-Excelent_W0QQitemZ130263598621QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130263598621&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A13%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 Either way ebay is you best source.

Just because they are a well known climber does not that mean they can read and write a book review. That said send me PM and I can ask a couple of very well known climbers who are friends who have been on the publishing end if they have anything interest. In the mean time, given you are asking for literary reviews you might want to at least be clear in what you want - "and care to send my their contact info?" Do you want someone to send your contact info to them or do you want us to send their contact info to you. It is not clear?

Climbing Shoes sold separately or *all 5 pr for $40* (the Aces and the Scarpas are essentially new) 1 Boreal Aces approx. size 6 (women's 8) - excellent condition $20 1 Boreal Ninja size 34 or 34.5 - well worn $10 1 Boreal Lazar size 6 (women's 8) - well worn $8 1 Scarpa infernos? size 37 - nearly new $20 1 Boreal approach shoe approx. size women's 8 - need laces $5 All gear for $40 as a package deal otherwise as priced below. Misc BD stoppers (1ea of #12, #11, #10, #8) $3 each or $10 for all 4 1 BD twistlock biner--new (large) $6 3 steel micronuts--new (2ea #6, 1 ea #5) $5 ea, all 3 for $12 1 BD pulley -new $10 1 CMI Figure 8 $6 1 Cassin Fifi hook--new $3 Vasque Ice 9000 Size 10.5 SOLD 10.2mm PMI Rope - not a lead rope, hauling, jugging, etc. $40. REI travel backpack - front opening, with detachable day back - $25.

I agree with genepires, I worn my puffy down jacket at 14k while acclimatizing because it was cold. I wore the same jacket on the upper stretches of the Cassin cause I was cold. Though the same jacket I wore it for different reasons. I think in recent times folks have been going to jackets like the DAS or Belay Parka cause they see that is what the light and fast folks are using (i.e. marketing). IMHO, less than 1% of the folks going to the Alaska range fall into the light and fast category. As such, give your self the edge with something puffy. You may not need it but if you do you will be glad to have it. And if you look the DAS parkas (27 oz) are not all that much lighter compared to something like the FF Front Point Jacket (30 oz).

Grubs man ya gotta eat the grubs - rub a dub dub - lets eat some grubs. Insects have a lot of protein in them. Especially grubs.

Nice to hear of a positive outcomes. Beers to all.

Excellent weight loss plan - too bad winter is coming on. Congrats boys.

Part of me is not surprised. But but on the other hand bummed as it was the only descent rag in USA. One of the few the proud owners of 0-25. Anyone need issue 8? Make me an offer. If I get desperate (i.e. my stocks tank) I might sell a duplicate 0 and 1. In the time mean folks can temp me with some offers.

One time we left the parking area at 2pm for a quick run up the south side. We got to the top around 7pm. We figured we would get back to the car just after dark. Well, seems we misplaced the trail back to the parking area. It took us a couple of hours and lots of walking up and down the PCT before we found it in the dark. Got back to the car at 2am. Of course this was summer. Hope the missing person shows up with a good tale.

Ditto with what John said. OIF is really a big social scene. That is unless you walk up the road and do some of the climbs not in the park. And there are some fine climbs to be had. If you want to fly Grand Junction is your best bet as it a 2 hour drive from there.

Bummer, I have gotten to the point that I leave nothing in the car and nothing at the base. Just think of climbing a 5.11 with a pack as training ;-).

What you meant to say is that as commander in chief your first executive decision was to make your climbing partner the official party biographer. And that after a full review (i.e. sanitized) that a biographical photo alum will forthcoming.

I use a steel or brass wire brush, BTW I think my next FA is going to use the thread title as it's name "weapons of moss destruction" GREAT.

An interesting PNW mountaineer who did a little mathematics ... http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/11/science/11schramm.html http://research.microsoft.com/schramm

In many high use areas folks are moving away from using trees as rap anchors and replacing them with bolted anchors. In most cases I see nothing wrong with it as was said it removes the tat slings from the picture and gives the trees a bit more space to breath (i.e. branches are not broken, roots are not exposed, etc). In a few places I have seen folks replace the tat with a long chain around the tree which is certainly not better in my book. My suggestion would be to leave them. As for the other bolts, bolting next to cracks is for lame ass single digit IQ buffoons. Chop the fuckers (nicely)

The fall can be quite nice after a few storms have settled in. I climbed it late one October. There was no one on the hill. I had it myself sans a few spirits following me up the Spur.

Okay, I can see what you are saying. I guess while watching the pocket debris dump it went more to the left. It just seems that the direct is less of gauntlet when the pocket is still hanging. Here is what we climbed to by pass the magic carpet. We came in from left.

Huh? We came no where near the pocket glacier doing the original start. Yeah the north glacier does dump stuff but as I said you are in the firing line for a couple of minutes. How long were on the pocket glacier?

We by passsed that ...

Why are so many folks so hot on running the Pocket Glacier gauntlet? In less than 2 minutes we walked under the Slesse Glacier and casually walked up to the base of the buttress.