AlpineMonkey

Looking for experienced partner to climb something big this up coming weekend. I have several ideas but am open to yours too. Craig

I'm getting old and soft then.

In the "What the hell is he doing" picture, that is the crux roof. Ryan had to pull on pieces to get through it on lead and I had to pull on a piece to get through it on top rope, it was still hard. They say the route is 10c, but I can get up any 5.11 when on top rope. I'm not sure what the deal is. Its' a lot harder then 5.10 climbing. It was even harder then the roof on CBR. Has anyone else climbed the route? What did you think?

Beautiful in a sick kind of way.

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Boving Route Date: 7/11/2009 Trip Report: Ryan Painter and I climbed the Boving Route on D-tail. We found difficult and often runout climbing. The Route:

Nice write-up John. Never have I agreed to do a climb so big and so fast with someone I had never before met. Glad it was all good. A long, but fun day out.

Why don't you post a picture of the peak and a line showing where you think the pack is. If you don't want to post it public, maybe you could send me an email. Maybe next week (no guarantee) I'll go up there.

I missed this thread, is it to late for me to throw in a wise-ass comment?

I sent you an email. Im open.

A write up means nothing with out a picture and a red line drawn in. Rat, if you ever want to go climbing we should do something, I can't find people that like to hike to crappy climbs anymore.

I just remember being scared, dehydrated, and glad when that climb was done. But it was three years ago. For comparison, I climbed both Pinapple Express and New York Gully on Snoqualmie this year, and NE Couloir on D-tail, similiar thin ice smear/rock climbing, and had a blast. It didn't phase me one bit. So eaither it was really hard and we were outa our league or I got a little bit better. I would for sure like to go back there some day and see it again. I wish I had a solid partner these days that could get my physched on that stuff aga Thanks for posting on that area.

Noah, Here is a post I did when I used to post under my last name, way back when... February 2006 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/548069/site_id/1 Pictures are exactly in that bottom half of the runnel you speak of. It was probably one of my first climbs where I realized that dying was possible. But we were three years younger then, couldn't afford the gear we have now, and probably weren't as expeirenced. It left an impression on me at the time.

I was affraid about climbing out 30 feet on slab with bad holds and then being stuck out there. Unless there is a hidden crack, the dihedral to the right of the belay station looked like a flaring thin thing. I couldnt tell if I would be able to get pro in it or not. I pulled 4 ticks off me, I think Conor had about the same. The reason why my hair is so short is because my mom butchered my hair the night before trying to give me a haircut. I had to shave it all off to cover the mistakes.

Bottom Line: Any route with the name "Grand" in it is probably just plain scarry.

We backed off today because it was too scarry. People in the old days had no fear I guess. I wasent about to risk running it out about 30 feet up no pro, 5.10+(?) slabs, risking taking a 60+ foot wipper directly on to the belay of 2 old quarter inch bolts. F-that route. I think Conor has some good pics to post soon.

Was keeping my eyes open and looking that way, but never saw a bird.

I was just kidding about the classic climbing. It was more like moss filled cracks and dirty rock. Nothing to write about. Of course you do need to carry your gear up the wall if you decide to drop down the back.

About 10 min. after we droped down the backside we hit a trail. It looked like someone at sometime had put a lot of work into it, lots of deadfall had been cut out of the way. We followed this trail down to Pearly Gates and then out, very quick way down. No down climbing sketchy stuff, just mellow walking. I think if you descend the standard Snow Creek Wall walk down it takes at least an hour just to get to your packs, then you have to hike out.

Yesterday kublaicon and I climbed King Kong Chimney and Umbrella Tree on Snow Creek Wall. What classic, classic routes. For descent we decided to try something new. From the top of the Snow Creek Wall we droped down the backside of the wall thinking we could hit Pearly Gates and then follow the trail out back to the cars. Well, just after droping over the top we hit a good trail and followed it down, making record time back to the cars. 1 hour and 20 min. at an easy pace from top of Snow Creek Wall to parking lot. From now on I'm descending this way. Has anyone else ever done this or heard of this descent.

How do you know about the P-38 crash near Ellensburg? I first located the site about 5 years ago and have talked to the pilot who bailed from the plane. I have also located a B-17 near there. I used to look for crashed aircraft before I started climbing.

I've never gotten a tick in Tieton, didn't even know they were a problem there...snakes on the other hand.

I climbed Z crack yesterday and now I have a fuzzy feeling finger. Did Condorphamine on Sunday, approach and climb all snow free and dry. The rock is all bare and dry on most S. slopes. Watch for creepy crawlers though.

there is a new guide out?

Dane, don't you know that its now rock climbing season??? :[]

My girly-o and I ran up the bolted route on Condor Buttress today (Sunday). It was so damn pretty up there. I've never had that perspective on the Enchantments. I thought the route was super fun and definately want to go explore more up there. Only gripe is that it seemed like the bolts were super close together, there were times when I was just clipping every other one. Pulled two ticks...so far...off our clothing and stuff. Do you approach Bridge Creek Wall just like Condor Buttress, except go right instead of left near the top?