AlpineMonkey

Good thing I actually follow the rules of ice climbing, "one must never fall."

Thats messed up John...Please don't ever post a picture of me like that again. Your priorities as a climbing partner should be to make me look burley.

Wow, thats really early.

I currently work through an organization and do outdoor and some indoor climbing programs. This is all on the side from my "real" job. I am fully insured through where I work and if there was an accident they would take the hit. As long as I am acting in my job description and not intentionally injuring someone I am covered legally. For example, if I am teaching a student how to rock climb and they get hurt I am covered because I am hired as a “climbing specialist.” But If I were teaching a student how to swim and they drowned, I wouldn’t be because I'm not hired as a swim insturctor. But it got me thinking, as I would like to perhaps branch out to other organizations in the future. (I don't ever want to be a guide, but I like doing "programs" and introductory courses with kids.) What do private guides or other climbers who work in the industry do to protect themselves legally? I would not want to loose my house and everything I've worked hard for from a legal matter.

Anyone want to try to climb a little at Vantage tomorrow? 30% chance of rain. I could meet you there or if you are in Wenatchee we can carpool. Wood like to get on some harder sport climbs to try to get a workout in for ice season. (grade 5.10 to 11+ range)

You must have just missed the trail on Toketie. I've been up there a number of times, as recent as two years ago and there is an awsome trail. Thanks for the picture of that wall, I like it.

I was just referring to the fact that even the other routes on the wall have been forgotton. Of course the internet might change things.

Here is your man: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/892365/Re_Lost_Pack_on_Mt_Index#Post892365

Jens, when you did it did you do the "5.7" chimney start to the ledge below Easter Overhang? Damn that thing was awkward and hard.

Climbed this thing yesterday and man it was good and fun. I brought a camera but accidently forgot it in my pack. If I was writing a selected climbs book this one would be in there. I tried to goolge it to find pictures and reminisce on how fun it was, but couldn't find anything. Its about a Grade III, 5.9, 5 or 6 pitches. If you haven't done it, I'd recomend it. If anyone has any pictures they should post em.

When I did it there was some climbing webbing over the edge and I was able to use that as a hand hold to get back down. That was five years ago. I thought I remember that there was a tree that you would fall into. A lot of the ridge is 3rd, but its also loose. There is a little route finding involved.

Partner found.

Anyone want to do anything, I need a partner. I'll do any route you want. Thinking of Enchantment Area, but would be up for other stuff. Send me a PM with your phone number or if you already know me call me. Craig

Its scarry to think that someone died on a route that so many of us have done. I myself having done it for the first time about a month ago and also had trouble getting around the shrund (we chose to go left instead of right). It's also almost seems unfair that someone would die on a 30 foot fall being caught by a cam, when earlier this year I saw someone take nearly a full rope length and walk away with a broken foot on Mount Snoqualmie when all his gear ripped.

One of my all time favorite routes.

Went to go try it once with suckbm and we ended up climbing the Sherpa instead. Shit was just absolutly dumping down the headwall. I'm not sure if conditions in fall are how they used to be when it did get done quite often. It would be extermely condition dependent climb. Several people have died there over the years do to rock fall during that time of year. If you hit the conditions it would be a rad climb. I doubt its been done in a long time.

Jens or Sol, How much 12 climbing is there on the pitch. Are we talking a few moves of scarry and hard or a half a pitch of desperate stuff?

Does continental drift explain the Wine Spires, Colchuck Lake, and this thread in the Alpine Lakes section. I'm confused. But if you were up in the Wine Spires it sounds like we just missed you guys.

I did a little looking around and found other locals who played on this wall in the past. This explains the bolts. I wonder where their line went in relation to yours. Sounds like they both shared some of the begining pitches. Evidently there are fixed rap anchors all the way up the wall. That would be rad to be able to climb he wall and rap back down, not worry about going down the Sherpa or anything else thats hard work.

How the hell do you guys get 8 days off, I get 5 days of vacation a year? Looks like a great climb.

Hopefully I didn't inadvertently start a pointless route quality/ratting argument thread. I was just kidding because I got my ass handed to me on the last route I did. I thought we would run up it, but instead found myself scared on every pitch and struggling. So, let me make it noted now, that was not the point, but I still enjoy reading and talking all this climber philosphy. I think the best routes force you to climb in one place. There is no question of wether you go here or you go there. You can only go here. And the Girth does that. Routes get climbed in phases. Whats cool and inspring for the season. This climb may see an ascent or two this season because of the awsome photos posted, but after that it will long be forgotton. And remember, this is a big wall. Any other ascents may follow some of the same route, but its highly unlikly that it will be followed exactly. Plus, as stated earlier not many people hike 5.10/11 in the mountains. A few good climbers have tried and maby even climbed the wall before, but I have never seen anything on it until now. Layton (tried)? Matt Stanley (climbed)? Jeff Hashimoto (maybe?). Mount Stuart is my favorite mountain in the world. It is where I first started doing bigger climbing when I was learning. Now I've done 12 routes or something on the N. Side. Sherpa Glacier, Ice Cliff Arete, Ice Cliff Glacier, Girth Pillar, NE Face, N. Ridge, NW Face Couloir, NW Face, Stuart Glacier Couloir, Razorback Ridge, and W. Ridge. I've walked by that wall many times and used to have a friend that tried to get me to try it, but I never really had the interest. After seeing those good pictures though, hopefully I can add it to my tlist to try beore summer is over. It looks like amazing climbing on a very prominent section of the mountain. I used to think I was done climbing on that mountain. But now, one more damn route that I need to throw in my bag now.

Is there any reason or need for an ice axe up there right now if going over to Chianti?

I was just joking. Because I was maxed out on a supposed 10c last weekend. It felt more like 11+ to me at the time. I was pumped from the eairleir pitches though and did have a pack on. 5.11 in the mountains onsite and clean, up dirty rock in a moist cloud would be a real challange, not something most of us could do. But hey, you guys try to climb 15 11s in a day, so there ya go and other crazy crap. Nice job on the route.

Nice looking climbing guys. You sure it was 5.11 though? Not 10c...

Matt, this is Craig Gyselinck. I tried to call you to tell you we did the route, but I couldn't find your number. You should give me a call so I can have it again and we should do some climbing. Hope all is well with you. PS. You climbing this route in the 70's makes me think you shouldn't be teaching kids. Crazy...