AlpineMonkey

BDE on Sale? http://www.google.com/finance?q=bde Just waiting for a name change scheduled in August. Not sure how Yahoo Finance comes up with their targets, so its probably just crap...But they are giving BDE a 1 year target of $26 a share, now its at 6.50. Should we be buying this instead of new gear right now?

If Goose Egg isn't a sport cragg, then what is it?

Call me next time you go back in there!

Looking for a partner next weekend...I know its early. But, weather dependent, thinking about something on Mt. Stuart. Maybe something else too, probably spend the night out. Send me a pm or email. Craig

Just did a point forcast on NOAA and it calls for gusts up to 75 mph in the Stuart Range.

My wife and I were up on Easter Tower two weeks ago. Didn't see any birds over there, but we pulled 20 ticks between the two of us off our clothing. Including three small deer ticks that I could barely see with my eye. In 6 years of climbing in Leavenworth area I've never encountered these little ones and I hope they aren't going to be the new thing. Looks like an interesting climb.

I'm interested in trying a route on McClellan Peak in the Enchantments. This would need to be a hike in Saturday thing, camp, climb and hike out Sunday. Let me know.

I'm no skier, but it must have been nice to get out of the clouds for a change. Nice pictures.

Pictures by "Wayne and Dane" ....I swear I took two of them in this movie.

You guys are pushing it a little I would think...It's usually best in Spring conditions (March, April), thats not to say we aren't having spring conditions now though I guess.

What happened to "freedom?"

I am willing to meet anyone who wants to get on some Rock tomorrow at Vantage. It was in the 40's today. Higher chance of rain tomorrow, but I have a feeling it will be ok. I know its late, but PM me with phone if interested.

It looks from the picture that the ice is even being supported from the ground, is that true? Or was it free hanging?

Final Sumary, less confused: Evidently this route has been climbed by few over the years as both a rock and winter route. I think climbing it as a mixed snow, rock, and ice route was classic. The climbing difficulties are low enough that the climb is within many of our abilities. The routes protects extremely well. We placed all rock gear on the first two pitches and climbed the last with a mix of rock and ice gear. I propose referring to this route as the “The Corner Route” as it shares the first pitch of the rock climb, Corner Route. The Leavenworth guide describes the rock climbing as “A nondescript corner/crack that sees occasional traffic, 5.9 Gear to 3 in.” There is a great picture on page 40 in the Leavenworth guide showing Madsen’s Buttress and the route. Climb the first pitch of “The Corner,” a 3 inch crack filled with ice to a belay ledge (5.7). Veer left on an easy snow ramp to another corner. Climb up the ice filled corner to a belay ledge (WI2, possibly mixed). Finally, climb a 70 meter pitch, WI2 & 3 to a large tree. From the tree, walk right and descend as you would the Rainbow Routes.

On the last pitch (our ice pitch) I found an old rusty really good bashed in angel pin. It was one of the older kind with the big rings on it to clip. It was probably from a rock climb of the same route, I would think. I think Rat has climbed it before and Jens H has I think told me he climbed it as an ice route. Regardless, it should get climbed a ton more because it was fun, now one of my favorites in the area.

I don't know...I always thought "Air Roof" was the big roof right off the road, next to SCW parking lot. Am I wrong? As for the grade, Conor and I said it was a 3 on the hike out, but looked up the climb Pivotal Moment, which we thought is what we were on...and they called it a 4,so I left it at that. Anyways, it appears I'm mistaken and that we were not on Pivotal Moment? I'm confused too now.

Quick Survey of what I saw Yesterday. Mountaineers Creek - Not In - I hiked up there Rainbow Left and Right - In Careno Left and Right - In Pivotal Moment - In Hubba Hubba - In Snow Creek Wall - Not In Wet & Wild looks great too!, I really want to get on that one.

Awsome, I was wondering who was down there taking pics...do I have anyway to see it!

I appreciate the respectfulness and thought of the posts that have gone into this thread. I’m trying to be very careful what I type as this has turned into sensitive issue and I don’t want to start issues. I posted anonymously to raise a question for climbers to consider. Aside from that, I stand firm with my original post and belief that climbing on or near the Punchbowl under the conditions of that day was unsafe. Falling icicles was not a “question in insight,” it was a very predictable under the conditions. Not only was it predictable, but it was happening as I observed multiple near misses to one party on route. My original post was not to call or single anyone out, not to cause grudges, not to start fights, etc. Nobody owes anybody anything here. My post was to bring forth my opinion and concern that people should not be on those routes under certain conditions. This belief is my opinion and my opinion only. As I have learned from this thread, everyone has their own opinions and it is up to oneself to do whatever one wants to do. I have seen people on these routes multiple times in what I think “high objective hazard” conditions and wanted to raise a question for people to consider before risking it. Maybe it will save a life down the road. In the end, I hope everyone is happy and there are no hard feelings. If there are, I apologize. Alpine Monkey…Done with this thread.

Forgot to mention. Used all rock gear until the last pitch, where we used a combo of rock gear and screws. ...and I got a charlie horse on route that hurt like hell, now my leg still hurts like hell whenever I put weight on it.

Trip: Madsen's Buttress - The Corner Route This is not Pivotal Moment* Date: 1/9/2010 Trip Report: WI3, 5.7 Route begins in a corner just left of the massive "Visor Roof" near the SCW parking lot. Started off with a pitch of full on mixed climbing, to thin delicate ice on slabs, to a wonderful pitch of solid WI. Great Route. This one goes on my list of favorites! One of WA's best of the best for sport ice climbing. Pitch 1: Pitch 2: Pitch 3: Gear Notes: -single set of camalots up to 3 -set of nuts -pins (we had 2 angles, 2 blades) -screws -long slings Approach Notes: Belay from the car? Walk off Notes: From the top at a large tree, walk climbers right and go down how you would if you climbed Rainbow Left. Quick and easy.

I don't think you'd get in trouble on that pitch on 97. I've seen it numerous times and its pretty far back from the road. Getting a ticket there would be like getting a ticket at banks or something. I don't think you can, I’m not a legal expert though.

Why don't you make a shirt that says that..."Lead your 60, Bitch!"

Thats even more wierd that the page isn't there anymore. It is obviously somebody on here that made all that, with their references to cc.com. If you still want to see it, find it on google and view cashed pages.

I wish I could get out as much as you these days Jens.