AlpineMonkey

Contrary to most college aged spring breakers I'm working...

Did some after work climbing up the Icicle today, came home, and just found a fatty tick crawling up my leg.

I've been on those craggs. We climbed a nice 2 pitch bolted route right above the lake, I don't remember any moss though.

yes, open, no snow.

I'm always up for beatin some bushes!

I'm 100% certain the line we climbed was this: I set two blades at the second red square to belay you through the crux, we then simulclimbed to the top. This is exactly where Party 1 Set their belay (as seen in this video) and where all other parties met up with our route. In the video someone says we came up here and points to the right, all other parties came up the gulley to the left of where he points. [video:youtube]

My memory is now fuzzy about the route and I cant say what others did, but here is my speculation. At least the first party and second party climbed the red line I drew in the picture. At least some of the other groups hooked right on the headwall and either climbed the green variation or the purple variation I drew in the picture. At the time I was in the couloir, it just made sense to me to go straight up at the bottom rather then veer right, there was an ice slot. Other parties were forced to go right because by the time they climbed the route, the thin ice in the slot was no longer there. It just made sense to go right then. This would have avoided a few hard moves and possibly the crux (?) for the first two parites, but the line quickly connected back to the red line and to my knowledge all parties climbed the last pitch of the upper wall. Some may have found it easier then others because conditions were changing exteremly quickly on the route, or they are just better climbers?. I highleted the yellow line because it is possible that someone went that way too...I guess, but it just didn't seem logical to me at the time (I was obviously looking for the "easy" way up. I doubt anyone went that way. The climbing was harder then I expected, but I am in no way a master at mixed climbing or "hardcore". I work 5 days a week, climb ocassionaly on weekends, and climb about 3 mixed routes a year...We'll at least this year I did...Cant remember if I did a mixed climb last year or not, I dont think I did. Anyone with any skills might have different opinions.

Jens So what was the outcome to all this? Are you out what you ordered or is the company going to send you whatever you got again?

When I started climbing my friends and I just bought the gear and started doing it. I had never followed anyones lead, let alone 50 leads... I haven't heard of anyone saying this place yet, but inbetween rain showers there is a very nice beginner spot at Little Si. Its called Repo Wall. Its where I did my first gear leads. They are all low 5th class climbs and very short. You can climb them multiple times and sew them up to practice placing. There is a nice chain anchor at the top to get back down easily too.

Interesting results. I expected sport to have the most votes, followed by traditional, bouldering, ice, mixed in that order. I see that is obviously not the case. I was trying to just include the basic types of climbing. If you consider yourself more of an "alpine climber" then that could fall under traditional, ice, or mixed, or all.

Check all that apply. Check all the types of climbing you do. Not what you have done only once or twice, but the types of climbing you regularly persue. For example, if you've only climbed ice once or twice and hate it, don't check it. But if you've gone sport climbing only once and loved it and plan to do it more, then check it...If you traditional climb every day, then obviously check it...

Mazama Ice Does anyone on here know if any Mazama Ice is currently in condition. I checked the forcast today and it says a high of 37 today droping dowin to 13 degrees at night. It looks like similar trends go through the week. I'm looking for some ice to jump on this week.

It was kind of nice to put our stuff in when we were climbing, etc. Keeps things dry, keeps the mice out, and keeps things neat. Plus, it made my pack 35 gallons bigger. You should try it! I'm done climbing on this wall, I think. This season I am going to focus on repeating and hopefully some new lines on the wall right above mine. Where you top out on the cascade wall, you walk up the hill 5 min and there is a wall about 2-3 times as big. Pete D has done a bunch of routes on that one. The lines are amazing looking. You can also do a 20-30 min walk up the hill and avoid climbing the lower wall to acess the big one. The nightmare needles are right above all this stuff two, which is another spectacular spot, but a bit of a butt kicker to get up the hill. I hope at least somebody after seeing this post goes and plays on the Cascade Wall and maybe explores the upper wall. Its just so cool. We've also done a bunch of climbs all along the Ingalls Crk. Trail leading to this spot at the various cliffs you pass on the way, but that stuff is no where near as spectacular as this "7 mile" stuff. All climbs were done w/ Conor Byrne, Stuart Thompson, Pete Doorish, Denise Soderberg.

I'm not sure whos photo that is. I stole it from summitpost, it might be Klenke's. I just thought that looked sort of interesting and I've never been up in the area.

Looking forward... Today little birdies were chirping outside my window and the weather seemed quite warm. I'm starting to look forward to some nice rock. At the end of the summer last year I posted, probably somewhat lacking of details, on some climbing up Ingalls Creek. I thought I would add a little more details now. For those wanting to avoid the crowds, seek some adventure, and do some quality rock climbing, this place is for you...Exactly 7 miles up the Ingalls Creek trail (off Bluett Pass) is a superb granite wall. For me, I consider myself relativly fit, the hike in takes only 2 hours and 10 minutes. Here you will find a perfect cozy camp next to Ingalls Creek. The wall which I named "Cascade Wall" is directly above the camp, 15 min walk up the hill. The climbing is comparable to the multipitch climbs on Careno Cragg in leavenworth, perhaps Pearly Gates, and I could even compare it to Snow Creek Wall. Perfectly clean, solid crack climbing. We put a total of 5 routes on the wall, ranging from 5.8 - 5.11. The one 5.11 crack is the most amazing crack anyone could ever climb, perhaps the coolest and cleanest crack I have ever climbed in my life. Above our little 2-3 pitch wall is another wall that offers similar quality climbing, but much harder. Full pitch 5.11 and harder, completly sustained finger cracks. I hope some of you can find some enjoyment up here. The approach: The lower wall: The Camp: The Scene: The Details:

Is there any climbing history on this N. Ridge on Buck Mountain. The Beckey book says that Cal Folsom and another did a route up the N. Side, but the rock was loose and they warn others from not going here.

Today Kyle Flick and I repeated this route, with the direct start. Went well and was SOOOOOO much fun. Not as much ice as in your pictures though.

Today a party was simulclimbing the first pitch of PE. The leader was up through the trees and climbing up the rock step and had both tools blow. He took just short of a full rope length fall all the way from the upper rock band to about 20 feet off the ground of the first pitch. The rope got tangled in the upper trees which prevented him from decking and getting more seriously hurt then he was. Be carefull on these mixed things.

Side note. I am looking for a partner to climb the "real" NY Gully this weekend, on saturday. If anyone wants to team up, send me a pm with your phone number and ill call you tonight. Craig edit partner found.

Very nice write up. I love the pictures. I think I almost killed Wayne (not really) with a bunch of shit I knocked on him out of the chimney too. Isn't it cool how you step out onto the chock stone and then up, that was my most favorite part.

Someday it will touch down and somebody will climb it. Unclimbed A (left) and Ponderosa Pillar (right) in good conditions (2007):

Screws found home, NO MORE PM'S, please

Does anyone have a use for two titanium SMC Ice Screws. I have two that are brand new, never used and I have no use for them. I tried to find a link on the internet to show exactly what they are, but couldn't find them. I do know that they used to sell them at REI. They are not suppose to be for lead climbing, but staking down tents and stuff I think. If anyone wants them let me know, or if I don't hear anything in the next week I'm gona throw them out. I would just ask that you pay whatever it costs me to ship them to you. Im cleaning out my inventory. Craig

To the dork that told me Icicle Creek looked good...For the rest of you its not in...Thanks for getting me out on a walk though! Bryan, what did you guys climb? Did you get on that pillar?

nice job, did you find my headlamp?