AlpineMonkey

Like I said ealyer, I could be wrong. It's just how I feel from what I see and know (which could be very little). I'm not trying to set myself up here for people to say what backing do you have etc..., but I am sure more people then this Blake guy climb in Washington. Maybe other's aren't doing new routes out there and I just think they are, I don't know. But I know Pete D. has done a lot of new routes every year (including this one...), but they might be insignificant stuff...and what about Bryan B., I don't really see his name coming up ever and he is also obbseivly active. There is one or two sentences about some "little" grade IV 5.11 route that he did. Those are just two people that I know of who are extremly active. I'm feel like there must be others. Just wanted to see what other people thought. Even if it includes writting a letter to these peoples it would be awsome to get them to submit. It's all history in the end and once it's lost its gone for good.

It would be awsome of those of us with connections to the older generations (the not so internet savvy or perhaps not so internet willing...) could talk to them and get their reports so next year we can have a more complete and accurate picture of whats really happening in Washington. I believe there is much more happening out their and I am willing to do my part next year to get this information out there from the few I know who are still hitting it up. I would like to see a lot more in there then practically 2 asccents by the same person who chose to write.

Here is something for disscussion: I got my first American Alpine Journal today in the mail and think it's the neatest thing ever. It will be what I am reading in my free time for the next couple of weeks. I can't believe or even imagine people doing some of the lines I see in there; there are some unbelievable climbers out there. I flipped to the Washington Section and it states that "Washington continues to see overal wilderness usage decrease..." and that "climbers are making fewer extended wilderness outtings." Also, "climber’s attention focuses on select guidebooks and internet disscusions." I will be thinking about these statments all day at work probably. I hope this dissucsion attracts some thoughtful responses and debate. I could be wrong, but this is what I think... I think there could be overall usage decreasse of Washington's wilderness by general users, but I think the same climbers that have always been cranking hard are still cranking hard. I believe these surveys have come from filling out those trail passes at trailheads and I don't know one serious climber that has ever filled one out, including myself. With the advent of internet discussions, we hear about a "select" few climbers and I believe it creates a false bias of Washington activity. We are all only reading about the same climbers time after time again, when the majority of climbers who aren't on this board and aren't posting it up in the journals are getting at it hard. If you look at all the NWMJ's for example, it’s always the same people time and a time again. It is an awsome publication (and I'm not implying anything bad about it) but it is more of a journal of a select younger few who choose to post. As for climbers now only focusing on select climbs (ie Jim Nelson books), I believe again that’s not true. I don't know how many Dragontail, Prusik, and Stuart reports I've read on here, quite a bit, but again it’s just the few who are posting it up. My backing behind this thought comes directly from "the field." I have been getting out every single weekend and doing many of the unclassic and not selected climbs and I find an abundance of evidence, like new webbing, on these climbs. Also this year I tried a line that I thought haden't seen a repeat. Then later found out that at least 3 other parties had done the route. I know one older generation climber who still gets out for a couple months each summer (litteraly taking full weeks off at a time to do routes) and he dosen't have an email, dosen't know how to use the internet, and is so computer illeterate he had to hand write a letter and then have his sister type it up on the computer for him for his work. I think we shouldn't come to conclusions that cascadeclimbers and journals completly repersent the Washington climbing sene. There is a lot more going on that you (and I) don’t here about. Sorry if my writting is choppy, I was just going off the top of my head here. I'm curios to think about what others think.

Trip: Kloochman Rock & The Talon - Date: 9/27/2008 Trip Report: Kloochman Rock - Peak 1 - N. Face - Grade III, 5.10D PG This rock outcropping is quite impressive from the S. Face climbs on the neighbooring Goose Egg Mountain. The Kloochman Peaks are well known among climbers as being dangerously loose, however, we found that the rock wasen’t all that bad. Though there are bands of looseness, the majority of the climbing is safe and good for the carefull climber. The route consits of mostly face climbing up slabs and through small roofs. High on the face The Talon - South Face Direct - Grade I, 5.10C PG This promient tower can be seen from Highway 12, E. of White Pass. The approach took aproximatly one hour of walking up 1000 feet of talus. We found the majority of the tower to be loose, but neverthless, it is an intereting feature. Climbing through the crux roof Spectacular summit

Slaphappy, Rolf, Capaleni, bwrts, Tony_Bentley...someone, whats that tower called?

I think it would be cool if there was a specific thread for First Ascent TR's that way we can quickly browse through them and read all the new activity. I have found that from time to time I miss out on whats going on, it would be cool if they were all in one spot. I just found some nice write ups of new routes that were done last year that I missed for example. Does anyone else think this would be good? Maybe put it above all the fourms in the trip report section called "New Route Activity"

that looks awsome, thanks for posting that

Trip: Dragontail - CompleteNortheastButtress Date: 7/26/2008 Trip Report: The Northeast Buttress is possibly the longest feature on Dragontail, making it one of the largest routes in the Stuart Range. The route offers over 2000 feet of elevation gain, however, the curving nature of the upper butress makes the climbing much longer. On this route expect loose and dirty climbing on the bottom head wall. Higher up the rock quality changes to "excellent" where one will get more then a thousand feet of quality moderate climbing on good rock. Lower Headwall Complete Buttress

Trip: Jaberwocky Tower - Date: 6/29/2008 Trip Report: Between easy and moderate climbing leads to an impressive summit with views of the surrounding big ones: West Face of Colchuck Rock, Northeast Face of Dragontail, Northeast Face of Colchuck, North Face of Mount Stuart, South Face Cashmere, and more… Perhaps if your new to climbing in the Enchantment Peaks, consider this an easy warm-up to scope out the bigger lines. Rappeling the E. Face

Trip: Little Snowpatch - Date: 8/31/2008 Trip Report: Little Snowpatch, an impsoing rock spire juts out below the lesser known Nightmare Needles, high above the Ingalls Creek trail. Offering a variety of climbing from mid 5th class to difficult 5.11, moderatly experienced climbers as well as those hardend men, with strong leggs and the sense of adventure may find some enjoyment up here. The sheer West Face (Steep 5.11 looking cracks). Below the summit point.

Trip: Hook Creek - Exploration Date: 9/20/2008 Trip Report: This weekend’s unpromising weather window allowed us to explore some craggs closer to home. Our interest was in climbing a route on The Blockhouse, but high winds hindered this quest. This weekends cold temperatures, rain, and wind, were a clear indication that this years high alpine climbing season is coming to an end. We climbed a prominent tower at the mouth of upper Hook Creek. The summit had one fixed piton/bolt and a new Madrock brand bolt. I'm interested in the history of this tower if someone knows. Further exploration lead us to the base of “The Hook” and its known featureless 30 foot summit block, which we did not attempt to climb (rope throw and prusik?).

Went up Hook this weekend and climbed an tower which dosen't have a name, as far as I know. I was wondering if someone on here could tell me its unoffical name? It it the very prominent tower at the head of the upper Hook Crk, below "The Hook." On the summit there was an old piton/bolt and a newer MadRock bolt. I would post pictures but the fourm wont let me anymore. We also tried to climb the Hook but, just like Beckey says its featureless. Didn't want to mess with trying to throw ropes and crap so just came down.

I can't upload photos eaither.

I just saw this post now, must have missed it back in June. Wanted to say I like it a lot, thats all.

Zero begins at the Ingalls Creek Trail head on Bluett pass. (NOT Ingalls Lake) If you walk 40 min. up the trail you will look up the hill to the N. and see the first set of craggs. Continue on for another 15 min. past the first craggs and keep looking up the hill and you will see numerous crags. Then contuine you on for another hour and 15 min. and you will see another set of craggs perched below the beautiful Nightmare Needles ("Cascade Wall"). Have my pictures in your hands and I think everything will come together fairly quickly. Someday though I might draw out a map of the area. Estimated times are base on being reasonably in shape. Ingalls Crk Trail has very little elevation gain. And like I said early on, If anybody plans on going up there to cragg or climb in the upper Needles, I suggest letting me know and I could provide you with some info to make your trip a little more enjoyable.

nice job kecin, denise was showing me pictures on facebook

Blake and Sol said they took a 5.10B start at the base of Distal Phalanx, when John and I never found climbing harder then 5.6.

I don't think anybody is "making" a line harder by not going the easiest way. Like for that ridge John and I just did, we were staying true to the feature, but also going the easiest way we could find. I think there is just a lot of 5.10 out there. In terms of reported rattings, its always what the climbers encounter and should not be taken as the definite ratting for the climb. For example on Bear there was a hard chimney pitch by the FAers and the second ascentist took a peak around a corner and found a nice 5.8 pitch.

Nice ones John It wasent about not having my licence, I explaned to him that I accidently left it at work. He didn't care, he told me I could drive but if I did and did get pulled over I "could" get a ticket. The whole thing that made me mad is that we just pulled over to switch drivers on a side street and then get pulled over. If your partner was falling asleep and dosing off at the wheel and you were fine, would you be like, sorry man, I can't drive I forgot my wallet? Anyways, that was a minor side detail to the story. The story was of getting pulled over for doing nothing, in my opinion.

So next time I get pulled over there should I say, "What are you, new? JK

This was in Cashmere.

After yesterday I have a lower view of cops. Was driving back from climbing in Leavenwort. We were going to switch drivers so my partner pulls over on a side street off of Hwy2 and does a quick U turn and jumps out of the car, where we switch drivers. I get in the drivers seet, turn on the car and with in 1 second see flashing lights behind me. WTF. The guy comes over, tells us we look suspicious and then starts haggling us. Wouldn't you know it, I accidently left my wallet in our other car (because we were car pooling to L-worth) and he asks to see my Id. I tell him my story, but haven't driven yet so there is no way I can get a ticket for not having my licence yet. He asks my name, I tell him and the f-er responds...."Why did you voice drown out when you were telling me your name?" "Are you lying to me?" "Are you a suspended driver?" "Why don't you take a step out of the car?"...Dude, all we were doing was switching drivers god damnit. Then I think he was trying to imidate me by asking me those questions again, telling me "when people usually don't show me id, they are usually lying to me..." So in the end we get a "Verbal Parking Violation Warning" all because we were just trying to switch drivers on a side street. A big ordeal and delay, when we were tired and just wanted to get home from climbing...

I will probably post a seperate thred pertaining to all the needles, but I added millage and approach time to pictures. If anyone is ever really serious about going climbing anywhere up there (Nightmare Needles, Knitting Needles, Crystal Creek, or surrounding craggs), let me know and I will definitly provide you with beta, plus some. I'll give you my recomendation on what to climb and the best possible way to get there to try to make it easy. It took me a couple trips to get familiar with a lot of area. It's just kind of fun being up there. That "Cascade Wall" named due to its clossness to Cascade Crk, for example has a killer campsite down on the River and its just 20 min up the hill, brush free once you get there. The climbing is so good and so clean. Cracks like what you might find right off the road in L-worth. It's all good early season stuff to train for other stuff too.

I'm glad there is a little interest. I'll post more tonight then.