AlpineMonkey

Anyone have any updates on conditions? I'd think with the warming / cooling trend we just had that stuff should be pretty good.

Was looking for some route info and came by this: http://twitter.com/libertyloop It has reference to a bunch of people on here. Anyone know who's doing it?

I also thought about posting my question. That was an awesome, very specific response. Thank you. I had not intended to single anyone out. My post was for people to really consider and think about what they are getting into before risking the consequences of climbing under those icicles. Obviously the climbers up there put much thought into their line, choosing one which was more sheltered and safe. Every single year I have seen someone climbing under the ice and it always makes me cringe. I consider that far more dangerous then hanging out under seracs, cornices, loose rock, etc. It doesn’t take much to send those things down. Thanks for the very thoughtful post. I think this discussion will be usefull for parties in the future thinking about climbing the route.

I got bitched out by a women up in Entiat. I was very nice and kept saying, "sorry, sorry, sorry, were leaving right now." She walks away and I think its all over with...2 min. later her husband shows up. You @#$#, #$#$@, #$#&^!!!, I called the police and they're on there way, you #$#@ #$#$@ #$@@#. Your lucky my dogs didn't get you, you #$#@, #$@#$, @#$@. By that time I stopped being so apologetic and just stuffed everything in my pack and started running in the opposite direction of him.

Your brave getting on Tyee. I would think the crux would be to not get shot at.

See that big hole on top of the right pillar on Careno Right. That was caused by me.

Is that first pic the Fang? That looks nothing like it to me. Did you park at then end of the road where you can no longer drive anymore? Every time I've seen "The Fang" it looked like a huge single pillar of ice. No crap on the sides. If that is it, how was the crossing? How long did the approach take? I've been wanting to take a wack at it for several years now. Rat once told me about a bunch of lines up there around the corner where you were. I think he may have done them all in the past, maybe he'll comment? Craig

Is it worth dying for? Just as I began climbing rock, I had no training, no mentor, no one to tell me right from wrong. I consider myself lucky during those early years. I’m not trying to sound like a hard ass here; as I know we have all had our share of close calls. But after driving around this weekend in search of ice, I was appalled and somewhat pissed off by what I consider extremely poor judgment and recklessness by some very experienced climbers. It was January 15, 2005 and my good friend David and I were headed out to banks to learn to ice climb. We both had climbed once or twice prior to this day on top rope and were eager to test our new found source of fun on lead. Devils Punchbowl seemed like a logical place to start. Similarly to yesterday, there were lots of icicles threatening the climb. Some were the size of my body and others the size of my car. Being inexperienced as we were, we thought that since it was cold out that we would be safe. We started hiking up to do the climb, but lucky for us we came across Trotsky’s Folly instead. Minutes later there was an explosion, the ground began to rumble. Even though we were no were near the climb, tons bucket sized ice chunks made it down to us and our packs. If we would have been on route I’m sure we would have died. About an hour later a party pulled up and started climbing the route. Yesterday a party was climbing the Punchbowl under similar conditions. I watched them climb under those icicles for nearly a half hour. Luckily for them, only small ones broke off when they were on route, leaving them to doge softball sized chunks. They were moving very slow on the route and clearly not experienced. I probably would have shit my pants when the first soft ball flew past my head, knowing there was icicles much bigger up there, but that’s just me. Then two experienced climbers pulled up. One man got out and asked us what we were doing? I told him we were “just watching.” He said, “Oh, so you’re not ice climbers…” I said, “Yeah we are, but were just watching.” He then replied in a macho kind of voice, “Well how are you going to learn if your just watching.” Then I watched as two more headed up the hill to do the same damn thing. I couldn’t believe it.

This is what he is referring to. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/928795/TR_Leavenworth_Fun_Fatty_Ice_1#Post928795 I'd just take their pitch count and divide it in half. The old timers around here have crazy formulas for counting pitches.

My friend was trying to tell me I needed to go there today when we were out ice climbing. Now its going to happen. Nice pictures. I just need to try to remember how to climb rock now.

Drove around the desert today looking for ice and nothing is in. By "in" I mean ice and realively safe. There were a couple of idiots climbing under daggers the size of my car on the punch bowl in the 38 degree weather. We waited around for a while to see if they were going to die. Lucky for them only a few of the small ones fell off sending some soft ball size pieces past them. Broken ice the size of 5 gallon buckets were scattered all around the base of the climb. An unexceptable risk.

I already named it Craig Gyselinck's Route in honor of myself. Denise and I walked below your last pitch when we were up there, but I thought it looked to short and crappy. Glad it turned out good.

Jens Holsten and I got out for the first time together today and climbed Carino Right and Rainbow Left. Rainbow Left & Right and Carino Left and Right remain in, but temps were getting warm by the time we left. Three other parties were enjoying the Rainbow climbs.

partners found for all three days.

Looking for someone to climb some ice with. Want to get out this Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Shoot me a pm if interested. My interest is in the Leavenworth area. Temps are suppose to get warmer, but I think we can still get on some stuff. Craig

That is quite possibly the worst looking ice I have ever seen at Strobach, ever... Did you climb anything.

Leavenworth vicinity - 12/27/09 Ice still kickin' in this side of the state. Today Kyle Flick decided to spend his 27th wedding anniversary with me. We first checked out Chandelier Falls. Everything looked good, until we got below the climb and a large piece fell out of the top, which was baking in the sun. We high tailed it out of there to Gill Creek Falls. It's In and a great climb. Don't waste your time going to Chandelier Falls if it’s in the sun. Got him home at a nice early hour to still have time to spend with the wife. Chandelier Falls Gill Creek Falls

Ahh, we as climbers like names. I talked to Mark and he said they didn't name it.

Did I say something wrong...or are you just in aww at all the fatty ice with 5 min approaches. It was nice to be able to climb a route real quick on the way over to the W. Side for Christmas. At this point, its hard to find enough time to climb all that's in, so you got to squeeze them in whenever you can.

Went out and climbed Careno Left today. Left new webbing at anchor at top. Great condition. Didn't bring rock gear, but you could really get some good stuff in with a small rack, I'd recomend that. Was to chicken to jump on Careno Right, but it would go. Rainbow Falls still looks good too. Careno Left Careno Right

I was feeling kinda bored about getting out and climbing ice tomorrow, but that movie just got me excited again. Thanks.

The river crossing is part of the experience of climbing Drury. It is one more element to the climb. It adds some flavor (adventure) and is one major reason Drury remains so Classic, but elusive to many of us. All the elements that go into climbing Drury add to the appeal and classic-ness of the route. Putting a permanent something across the river to make it easier is just stupid. Like Pete H said, there are alternatives to the river. Either walk your big lazy butt around or risk the river, or don't climb it. (not directed at anyone eaither)

If someone were to put a fixed "cable" across the river there, then we should also build a handicapped sidewalk to SCW. I've heard its classic too.

I'd be willing to bet everyone who responded to the article is fat. Maybe thats off subject though.

Quick Survey of Leavenworth: The Smear, Careno, Rainbow L & R, Hubba Hubba, The Goatee, (gulley climb by The Sword area), and Blast Rock Wall are all in and easily accessible. Entiat Survey: Everything in the book is in, plus more. Don't trespass without asking. Seriously, you'll regret it if you do...