AlpineMonkey

It starts off handsized and then turns into a fatty overhanging offwidth.

Climb: Temple Ridge-Various Things Date of Climb: 9/3/2006 Trip Report: The Meteor (Crack goes up the middle of the left overhanging face) At first as if in some weird trance we both sat silently staring at the beast, but then laughter broke out. With a 5.12 ratting I knew I was setting myself into position for a good ass whooping and the feeling of fear was most certainly present. But all aside, it was (and still is) the most beautiful crack I have ever seen. I couldn’t wait to throw my body into it and discover if I was tough enough to make a “send.” One fall and several takes later I found myself bloodied and beat, but standing on the summit. Though I didn’t do it clean, I made sure to work every move free. An amazing pitch it was. On the summit we found a scary rusty quarter inch death bolt for our descent. I wouldn’t trust that thing to hold my closet door on, we instead opted to rap off two knife blade pitons. Judging by how beat up and tired I was I think its really a 5.12+, but that must be decided by a real .12 climber, not me. Comet Spire One rap off the summit of the meteor led to easy ground. We scrambled to the summit of The Comet and down climbed its west ridge. Razorback Spire Having wanted to climb Razorback Spire last year, I was excited to give this point of prominence a try. Ryan wiggled his way up a difficult 5.11 chimney and we quickly found ourselves skirting the “razorback” to touch its summit. The Eagleheads (aka The Owl - I dont know how Beckey confused what looks like an owl with eagles?) Having only one or two recorded routes, we wanted to do something different. Our line weaved two pitches up the middle of the N. face before reaching a prominent dihedral. Three pitches, 5.8, 5.8, 5.10. Black Pyramid We tried to work a N. Facing line but had to bail two pitches up when we got stuck. I was a little disapointed, but theres always another time. Gear Notes: Double set of cams, more big gear would have been nice. Wish we had two 4's, 5's, 6's and tube chalks or something) Approach Notes: Nada Lake

The truth being, I'm really not so burley and I put up a 4 bolt lader. They're removeable bolts and I thought long and hard about striping them on the way down, thinking some ass would take them anyways. But in the end I decided that others might apreciate them and left em. I placed everyone on the top step of my aiders the first day I climbed it solo, there all about 5-6 feet apart and I spent a lot of time and hard work putting them in. I'm now a white trash low life looser. But in the end, I think they were needed. No sense in trying to throw ropes and shit over the top. I found a rope stuck in the crack at the top even.

I'm just f'n burley cappellini, stood up and grabed the big jugs.

Its up Ingalls Creek, Stuart Range kind of. My partner had rapelled down from the top about three months prior to see if the line would go. He told me that he tried to self belay the pitch and would do a move, hang, do a move, hang, the whole way up. He told me it looked like hard 11 or 12. I gave it a onsight try and thought it more like 11-. So I had his word that there was a crack for pro the whole way, but that was it. He had to jug the entire pitch while following. Ive never had so much fun on a pitch.

Thinking about naming the yellow route Clockwork Orange, after a 1962 novel "A Clockwork Orange" by Anthony Burgess, later made into a movie. I don't really have any ideas for the others.

Climb: Orange Tower-Orange Wall (New leavenworth routes) Date of Climb: 7/16/2006 Trip Report: Pete Doorish and I spent a couple days up in the Knitting Needles climbing various rocks. Finally talked about the rattings and we have some disagreement, but thats ok. The yellow and red routes are supper fun, great quality routes. The rock is very clean, lichen free, and perfect cracks. "Rock as good as Prusik," one might say...The other two routes are good, but not as asthetic. Pete stayed up there a few days after me and soloed some more towers, but this is what we climbed together. He thinks the yellow one is a 5.10+ and the red is an 11+. I say there both just solid sustained 10a and 11a. I lead the pitches so I'm sticking with my rattings. All of them were done free and clean with no falls or pulling on gear. We did place one bolt on the yellow route near the top. Wall is between 450 and 500 feet high. Gear Notes: Double set of cams to #3, 1-4 friends. Approach Notes: a long and steep pain in the ass

Yeah, I could make them all out. I would have to go back to my bigger pictures to see who they were, but they were all oldtimers that seem to pop up a lot. Madison, Beckey, McCarthy, etc... I was one who tried it last year .

Climb: Lighthouse Tower-West and East Face Date of Climb: 8/27/2006 Trip Report: With little creativity in mind, Friday afternoon I hiked partnerless bearing a hefty load six miles into Temple Ridge. Saturday I rope soloed (free and aid) to the summit of Lighthouse Tower via the W. Face. The rock was extremely solid, but covered in lichen. I estimate the climbing went at 5.8 or 5.9, A1. From the summit I admired the East Face which looked equally inviting. I snapped a picture of some old tat, then a self portrait from the top showing the summit shadow and retreated back to my car. I planned to return the following day with my friend. The next day I returned with a partner and we did the East Face. Approximately 400 feet high on good rock, this route was a blast. Estimated 5.10 climbing, 5 pitches. Lots of variations exist. Again we summited. Found a register which still had the first ascentists entry. Less then a dozen people have stood on the true summit. A fun quality climb. Gear Notes: Double sets of cams to number 3, a 3.5 and 4. Approach Notes: Easy going but a long ways, 7 miles car to tower.

I'm glad all you Leavenworth hardmen are all so good at betting, guessing, and doubting. Screw all of you. I'm claiming FA and I'm calling it Craig Gyselinck Buttress.

If they did, they would earn my respect and I would call them badass cascade hardmen and bow down to them forever.

Its right above Snow Lake in the Enchantments. I would rate it Grade II, 5.9. Though it could definately be easier or harder, depending on what cracks you followed. It looks like there could be some good winter climbing on the face. Yoder did a couple of winter and rock routes back in the 80's. We did that South facing couloir last winter which was fun too.

Climb: Wedge Mountain-Buttress (Southeast Buttress) - FA Date of Climb: 8/22/2006 Trip Report: Grade II, 5.9 Countless variations could be made, but we made every effort to climb directly up the middle of the buttress. We didn’t always go the easiest way, nor the hardest but climbed the coolest, most aesthetic looking rocks we encountered. And many short pitches later we tackled the final buttress headwall. It was hear that we peered over the usual sights of the Enchantment Peaks and Lakes, content with what we had climbed. My roommates first mountain climb, and a first ascent at that. Gear Notes: Slings, few cams Approach Notes: Follow old logging rd

Near the summit of Snoqualmie Mountain.

There is water up high, directly east of Orange Tower. Below is a not so good topo of the routes we put up. I just made it quickly and will later reassess the grades, adding plus or minuses, maybe letters after I confirm with my partner. You should go give that yellow and red route a try, very nice 4 stars in my opinion. The wall is about 450 feet tall.

Go give Toppling Tower a shot. Do the 5.5 route in the Beckey, it looks pretty nice. (We rapped down it)

Just got back from a 4 day trip, nice stuff up there.

Some pictures, my camera can't handel the bright light. The route, blue approach, red ascent: Travis low on the face: Snow slab on mid face traverse: A nice dihedral pitch. Upper snow slabs:

Anyone know if that upper part was anything new? Never saw a single sign of anyone being anywhere on the face. I can't tell if thats the Beckey NE of False or what. I assume he was more to the left on the face, we sort of worked up dihedrals along the edge of the snow. Anyways, it was a good interesting climb for us.

Climb: Mount Stuart-NE Face Date of Climb: 8/6/2006 Trip Report: Travis Hammond and I worked a line up the rarely climbed NE Face of Mount Stuart. This being my third attempt, once last winter and then again two weeks ago when my partner forgot to bring pants. Mosquitoes were mildly bad, weather was perfect. Saw lots of climbers on the N. Ridge and took some pretty rad pictures of N. Ridge climbers. If that was you up there, drop me a message and I’ll get you some pics. The climbing was mostly moderate with some tough pitches. A few baseball size rocks came ripping by very fast and close on several occasions, falling from high on the face. Large snow patches are still present higher up, but we were able to avoid them. Other then a few route finding f-ups on my part, all went well. Our route was possibly a new upper variation to the face, right of the Beckey NE Face of False Summit route. 11 hours from camp to summit, estimated Grade IV, 5.10. I had lots of fun. Gear Notes: Crampons and tool for glacier Approach Notes: Ingalls Lake - fast and easy

Easy but steep! Brushy down low, but not bad.

Those are the Nightmare Needles, there even further over then them Oly.

Climb: Knitting Needles-Tour Date of Climb: 7/30/2006 Trip Report: I can’t remember when I last went on a solo adventure, but as the sun sunk a special feeling set over me. It’s these trips where I always seem to appreciate the beauty of living. DAY 1 Being alone, I didn’t have to worry about someone riding my tail and pushing me along, nor did I have to worry about being slowed down. There were no decisions to be discussed and no compromises to be made. I could do anything and everything I wanted and it was this freedom that jumpstarted my good day. I started hiking up the Ingalls Creek trail at noon and blasted the first 6 miles in 1 hour and 25 minutes (Its flat and real easy goin'). From here I begin a steep (3,800 feet over one mile) and slow ascent of McClellan ridge, where 1000 more feet led to the summit of McClellan Peak. From the summit I snapped a goofy self portrait and admired the surrounding views. Familiar summits such as Little Annapurna and Prusik Peak were viewable. Soon the light began to fade and a light breeze blow. My tired legs yearned for rest. I chose the nicest, most beautiful bivy one could want near the 8,364 foot summit of McClellan Peak. In hopes of a spectacular sunset to photograph, I choose a spot with an almost 360 degree view, but was disappointed in myself when my tired body woke to stars. DAY 2 The following day I took my time weaving through gully after gully in the Knitting Needles taking nearly 50 photographs of rock towers, getting a feel of the area. In two weeks I plan to return for a 5 day trip with a role model friend. I hope to climb many of the “needles” I photographed. Though all the rock is supper solid, I can't immagine this area ever being popular due to the approach. However, it deserves attention. Much potential exists for quality routes.

Astronomy lesson: Both names come from constellations that resemble bears. Ursa Major - "The greater Bear" Ursa Minor - "The lessor Bear"

Climb: Bear Mountain-Ursa Major (attempt, dotted red) Date of Climb: 7/15/2006 Trip Report: (photo by John Scurlock) Last September John Frieh and I climbed the Direct North Buttress (yellow) up Bear Mountain. Having not climbed previously in the North Cascades, it was this trip that showed me what the range had to offer. (Indeed there are other mountains to climb then in the Enchantments.) From our campsite, large peaks surrounded us in every direction, all bearing massive walls. It was quite inspiring. I became fascinated with Bear and the challenges it has to offer. After arriving at Chilliwack Lake at 3:00 am and sleeping for two hours, John and I began the gruesome hike into Bear Mountain. Almost immediately we lost the old overgrown abandoned trail and found ourselves in a knee deep swamp. More then once we sunk up to our wastes. About 45 minutes after loosing the trail, fighting brush, and wadding through the bog John busted into an old growth forest and let out a “whoo-hooo” as he stumbled upon the trail. But it didn’t take long for me, however, to start recognizing distinct features. Somehow, and I still cannot comprehend how, John and I got turned around in the bog and walked backwards, the way we had previously come. We estimated this mistake cost us an hour or more on the approach. The excitement of finding the trail was short lived as almost immediately it went bad again. It was here that we crawled (not walked) on all fours across the US – Canadian boarder through the thickest god awful brush I have ever encountered. Occasionally we were able to use our two feet. After nearly nine hours of hell, we finally broke into the high alpine environment and found a nice campsite on the W. Ridge of Bear. As always, the views of surrounding valleys and peaks were spectacular. I ate a hefty meal and we both settled in for the night at 2:00 in the afternoon. DAY 2: We began our brief approach to the far leftword buttress early morning. It was then that we began to make out our intended route. (dotted red line shows our route and high point) We started climbing at the lowest toe of the buttress, always staying to the right of the crest. A route had been done twenty years prior, but that party stayed to the left of the crest. We encountered, as did the 1986 party easy to medium hard climbing on poor rock. Due to the nature of the loose climbing, we did not move fast but slowly worked our way upward. On pitch one I think I came the closest I have ever come to dying when 40 meters runnout my handhold broke and my body flew backwards. Just by a miracle did my right hand lunge forward and barely catch myself. (Good thing I have long gangly arms!). On another pitch high on the buttress I was forced to climb up vertical big loose blocks. As John was following this pitch a rock the size of his upper body ripped out on him and they both went flying through the air. Luckily when John stopped the rock kept on going, rather then squishing his head or something else. The higher we climbed the more “bs” climbing we encountered. We then that we hit a headwall. We tried to work left of it, right up the middle of it, and lastly to the right, but nothing would go. I dreaded a descent of what we had come up. There were no cracks and the wall was overhanging and loose. It was then that we came to the realization that we would have to retreat. After many raps off of single pins and scary nuts we safely reached the ground below. By far the biggest retreat I have ever had to make. DAY 3 It felt good to be done. But as John and I sat around our cozy fire for the last night out and discussed the day’s events, I said “You know, I’m pissed that we didn’t make it up this thing, it means we have to come back and try it again.” The adventure was awesome. Gear Notes: Double rack of cams, nuts, pins, no crampons, ice axe, 70m rope If you go now to do the DNB (route in Nelson Book) you wont need crampons!!! Approach Notes: Brushy hell