KirkW

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks for the info!

Nice job. What elevation did you hit continuous snow at?

Sorry to not be very helpful.

True, being from snow country, the last thing I want is a weak algorithm managing any skids I happen to get into. So yeah, I similarly don't delegate belaying to a device either and don't think belaying off anchors is a particularly good idea. But it does play into doing other things than belaying when belaying if one is already so inclined. Weak algorithm? You obviously don't know anything about antilock brakes produced after 1990. Is the advice your doling out regarding climbing as up to date as your opinions towards automotive technology?

http://www.nwac.us/forecast/avalanche/current/zone/13/

For posterity, as they say. What a fucking douche bag.

I never realized that Wayne had such a massive beard. I guess most pictures I've seen of the man were taken from below and the center of focus usually seemed to be his ass hanging out of a crack with very little, if any, pro in the frame. Can't really judge a man's facial hair from that angle. I think you and Shapp and I should go skiing and straighten this whole timeline thing out. The slog up the Palmer would give us plenty of time to discuss and I've never climbed Hood. Then I could finally write that Hood South Side TR that I've been dreaming of. In regards to the columns and the rock fall and all that. Yeah, they're falling apart. Just like everything else. The stories of shifting columns will continue. Glad the city is taking it seriously. It'd be a shame to loose this place. Thanks Joe for keeping the rest of us informed.

I would concur with Water. I was over on the N last weekend and what was decent skinning and skiing conditions would have been a miserable suck fest without flotation. With the recent weather you may find either fresh snow or rain saturated slush. If you have limited experience in the cascades I'd definitely recommend flotation of some sort, a single mountain axe, poles and pons if you plan on traveling early in the morning on any steep slopes. Good luck and post up a conditions report if you go.

Sorry for not putting the little smiley in to indicate my poor use of sarcasm. I'm having trouble figuring out what your talking about because the rock fall that was recently cleaned up and closed 1/3 of the columns happened after the block fell off Limp Dick. Way after actually. The two events are completely un-related. So if you climbed el Limpo "shortly" before the rock fall I'm trying to discern exactly what "shifted" on you because that top block wasn't there.

My apologies for the snarky comment Shapp but you did say just before the first rock fall/closure. The top of LD fell off(was removed?) years before the first big rock fall came down on the right side and has absolutely nothing to do with the current state of the columns. Perhaps your talking about the FIRST first rock fall/shifting/ closure that happened before Orton's guide came out? Or maybe you're referring to the some other rock fall/closure that occurred that I'm not aware of? And, for the record, I didn't climb LD. I fell up it.

We skied off the notch at the base of the NE arete (around 7800)on the N sister on Sunday and found perfect corn well into the trees. We didn't take our skies off until around 6000 . Granted, the last 500 ft was survival skiing but it really wasn't that bad if I could do it. TONS of good snow left in there and I'm getting new planks tomorrow! Get some before it's gone.

Looks like a gumby dumping a bunch of gear they bought but never/rarely used. What about his posting would make anyone think it's stolen gear?

That's weird. I was on Limp Dick last summer and fell or hung 3 times. All the gear held with no movement in the column. That route's been climbed thousands of times since then and no one else noticed any movement that I'm aware of either. This is, of course, AFTER the rock fall that these idiots were trying to "clean up". Weird how it moved for you but no one else.

Thanks for posting!

My buddy claims that his Stiletto allowed him to keep swinging a hammer when he was told by his doc to give it up because of chronic tendinitis. So there's that. And they look really good in a Dead On hammer holster. Of course I swing a cheap old Vaughn. I like the sound they make when they break. And...they've got that sweet magnet. I do however usually tape the handle. Never taped for climbing other than covering up the occasional work injury.

LINKY

A week and a half ago duder at Pine Mt. Sports in Bend told me it was "at least" 3-4 miles. Been warm since then.

It's certainly not too short. If anything it's a little on the long side for someone who is 5'3. A shorter axe will be much more manageable all around. The "buy a long axe" advice is coming from people who use it like a walking stick. Get a set of adjustable ski poles and a 55cm axe. You'll be happier in the long run if you get into climbing and you don't have to cut it down in a couple of years when you realize it's too big. For what it's worth, I'm 5'10 and I carry a 60cm standard axe. I've never needed or wanted a longer one. I have considered cutting down a little shorter though.

Awesome. My new signature.

"Is this me?"

Nice rack Tyler. I'll drive if you agree to let me sink one of those snargs. Looks like Mr. Waters has been a busy boy. I wonder if he's still working on a "Top ten classic 5.5X routes of Mary's Peak" guide? Last I heard there is gonna be a HUGE "Druid Boulders" section. Honnold keeps bugging him I hear. I can understand why it's taking him a while. So many good ones to choose from up there. Shapp, you should check that place out. Well worth the drive.

No comment on the polished stone bit... but I do agree with the OP that if an organization is taking your $185 dollars for a day of climbing instruction they should at least provide you with a pair of real rock shoes. Teaching a total noober how to hip belay their first day out seems less important to me than making sure they can operate a standard belay device. Teaching them the advanced technique of how to "hip belay" around your rib cage should be the first thing they learn about belaying of course. I mean, holy shit, what if they suddenly found themselves in a different parallel dimension in which the Munter hitch suddenly didn't exist? What if they dropped their tube device before clipping it to their belay loop? I guess they would have to bend over and pick it up? Again, this strikes me as an advanced technique. Better to teach them how to pound pins and move in coils.

If anyone is interested I've got NW forest passes for 08,09 and 11 for sale.

Two outta three ain't bad.

I clicked on this thread to read about bird closures but instead ended up in the Beatard forum. Thanks for that guys. I guess having your very own forum to do all the pissing, moaning, name calling, whining, crying and self aggrandizing ego flogging wasn't enough. Thanks for mucking up this thread with your bullshit too.