crackers
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Everything posted by crackers
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The C is a glottal J in Turkish. But who cares? How to you pronounce tange or dead bird or ... The Cilo - Sat massif. Also:
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Damn pesky citizens. Except that the over 4000 radioactive waste containers dumped in and around the Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary haven't been cleaned up. Yeah, it might be difficult to argue. Then again, it's usually fifty years or more before you figure out that your cool new industrial technology or chemical process really sucks. There is part of Brooklyn that would certainly be extremely valuable property if it wasn't the site of some of the oldest oil refineries in the world. It's so polluted that they basically plan to ignore it until clean up skills and technology are significantly better. The economic costs of resource degradation are a nascent area of study. And as long as people are using parametric statistical models and the hilarious concept of rational actors, those models and studies probably won't convince me of very much.
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There have been some real doozy's this year. I watched a guy place five pieces in fifty feet that all fell out, and this was about three weeks after a guy decked from about 60 feet up on a 5.9, pulling all his gear out with him. As the winner of the luckiest guy in the Gunks award for 2007, he landed on his packs and suffered no injuries. The store is Rock and Snow. They've got absolutely fantastic staff. They all really know their stuff and I think they're probably the ideal store for gear knowledge and local conditions. They've got one of the largest selections of clean climbing hardware I've ever seen, and they are intimately familiar with the pros and cons of every piece.
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Like love canal, the stellwagan banks, blahblahblah. Let's face it. If we screw up the environment, it means more jobs for treehuggers when we try to fix it.
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If you want a guide that's chill and will show you around, you can definitely get a ton of mileage in. This week the weather is terrible -- hot and high humidity -- but next week is supposed to be better. You can also find people to hook up with pretty easily, but you're always taking a risk as a partner whore. If you want to partner whore, I'd recommend sitting in the uberfall and propositioning folks walking past...
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I was taking a much needed break from work this weekend. The shoulder strap twisting is a Bad Thing. I am happy to take care of it for you. Just get in touch with me. It takes about ten minutes of work to get the tacks in and a pack back in the box. However, the shipping thing is definitely a PIA...so, for Seattle area folks, I'll call Rainy Pass this morning and see what kind of deal I can work out with them. The packs currently being shipped out have tacks in the shoulder straps so that the twisting doesn't occur.
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Just for you ken, via thepiton... HYhGYDNc1kw
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Just briefly, I climb sometimes with rg@ofmc of that whole thread. He can set up his wacky anchor that Mal Daly made for him in about as much time as it takes me to put my shoes while keeping him on belay. While sometimes I'm willing to suspect that's because of his 40 years of climbing in the gunks or the thousands of times he's done any particular route, I do vaguely remember that it took him longer to do the set up with his old cordalette method or his old clove hitch method.
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Stairmaster elevation estimates?
crackers replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
stairmaster. You're only level on a treadmill at "8% elevation", and there is less impact on your knees on the stairmaster to boot. -
Please help, I've broken my heel bone!
crackers replied to Jens's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
I'm in dissent as well. Find the highest quality doc ASAP. As some may know, the foot in the liability page of my company is that of my wife. http://www.cilogear.com/corp/liability.shtml Fractures of the bones in the feet have nothing to do with fractures of tib-fib or any other high blood flow area. Fractures of the talus or calc do not always heal, and can take months to recover. They can die in the meantime, and then you're in for a world of hurt, expensive surgeries and very bad outcomes. You probably aren't so bad, but why even potentially allow yourself to go there if you don't have to. Please don't take this the wrong way everybody, it's just that when you enter into the world of ankle fractures, it's not broken legs and it's not normal medicine. Find a superior orthopedic surgeon who specializes on feet and ankles immediately, doctor shop your heart out and see what you can find. Make sure you find a doc who knows ankles, knows that you intend to do sports and even land on your ankle again. You do NOT want to experience avascular necrosis of anything in your foot. Previous conversations I've had with marylou lead me to think that I remember that she knows some good docs. -
stories are that the tick is what drove Raf to the edge...
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Yes, I did place an "aid" piece on a free climb. I've done it before, and if I have to, i'll do it again. I'd rather have the piece disintegrate under load than have nothing at all. And yes, the Z3 and Z4 are rated to 6kN...But think about what happens when a 240 pound person falls on an early piece. Shoot, one guy I used to climb with was 6'7" 325#. He wouldn't trust anything under 9kn to hold him, and he'd screamer the little stuff and back it up if at all possible. We busted the Metolius stuff by taking repeated whippers on them, turning them after they got bent, and fully recognizing that we were way, way, way beyond what any piece of gear should be able to survive. I trust the Metolius TCU's much more than the Zeros. You can tell when they're, erm, under stress. Like I said, I don't blame them for failing...they didn't fail, they were exposed to greater than their limit. But if you even think about comparing Zeros to (perfectly made, therefore mythical )Aliens, I'm arguing that it makes sense to consider that my experience is that a 200 pound guy will fail all of the Zeros first. Just one of those many things that makes leading fun, huh?
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So would I, but I'll never trust CCH. I logged a lot of air time on my vintage black, and it's been fine. Then again, I don't get much time on granite. I've broken a #2 Zero and saw the remnants of a friend's broken #3 or 4 Zero. They're just not made for leading climbing and horizontal placements if you weigh 200 or more pounds. BTW, I've also watched purple TCU's get mauled and wrecked a couple of 00's myself. We knew the potential for failure, and we honestly were never very surprised when we failed the gear. Horizontals and big guys aren't a very safe mix for cams.
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I think the OIA and the member companies are scared because the core market demographics and user days are falling like a rock. If the industry is going to be as profitable as it hopes, it needs more than technically sophisticated white males to be involved, or it has to teach them that the prices should be much much higher. The OIA's standard figure for the size of the core "outdoor business" is only about $3 billion, which is for manufacturers of "core" products. Coke sells a lot more water than that each year. You only get the hundred billion mark with ancilliary sales, the multiplier effect and hunting and fishing and bicycles. Most of the foundations are incorporated in the US because that's the easiest way to reduce graft, bribery and malfeasance as required by US law for publicly traded companies. Do you really want people to spend more than the amount of the grant auditing a NGO in Nepal? My wife works for one of the world's best funded science oriented NGOs, with offices in Uganda, Kenya, South Africa, Brazil, India, the US and a few other places. In almost all of these places, funding is given out on a per project basis from the US branch. To my mind, it gets ridiculous quick. Which brings my mind to food aid. Did you know that a USAID grant for, say, stationary has to be used to purchase US made stationary? And that the USAID logo must be prominently displayed on it? If you want to talk about subsistence farmers trying to market their goods, let's segregate food aid, relief and disaster response food aid. And then let's wonder about the long term consequences of enclosure via market flooding versus keeping a population alive with food relief. There are good reasons I chose not to become a development economist.
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i also loved the busted nut sack. Flathead definitely has the best rock.
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I could fix up one of the new ones to have a removable hipbelt. Or I could sell you one of the old ones with a removable hipbelt for very little indeed...
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Uh? What? Would that be the new european country of Morocco? Or Kenya? Or the USA or even Canada? Or East Germany? Or Spanish runners? Or Austrian biathalon team? With steroids, you can overtrain and rest at the same time. Frankly, I couldn't care less about olympic athletes. Been there, don't have the needle marks, don't need to go back.
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reccomendations for alpine rock in the alps???
crackers replied to fheimerd's topic in The rest of the US and International.
2nd ade... val de mello pluses: long awesome routes. fun bouldering. streams to swim in. -
I go to cult meetings three to four times a week. I climb in the gym twice to three times a week. I usually stack these activities. For example, last night I climbed for about an hour doing moderates as fast as I could, and then did the cult wod in 11:10 as rx'd. I spend another workout slot or two doing sport specific and agility training, one of the tragic flaws in the cult. One of the workout slots goes to pulldown training and one goes to stairmaster training. I hate running. Nonetheless, I do try to get out and run every month or so.
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Mt. Fund Aids All-Star Pakistani Women's Climb
crackers replied to Dechristo's topic in Climber's Board
Howdy Scott, Nice post. So do you actually have 100 women signed up? When I got your email, i talked to some friends in Turkey. After some discussion, we agreed it would be hard to find 100 women in Turkey to do/find time such a course, and that's a far richer society than Pakistan, although Pakistan does have far more climber tourists and a background in climbing. We excluded Army etcetera 'volunteered' participation. How successful do you expect to be in getting participants from the Northern Areas? graham www.cilogear.com -
my condolences to the family and friends. my sympathy and thanks to those involved in the recovery.
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Mt. Fund Aids All-Star Pakistani Women's Climb
crackers replied to Dechristo's topic in Climber's Board
Out of curiosity, what do you all think about this project vis-a-vis US foreign policy and Pakistani domestic politics? This will be extremely controversial in Pakistan if they publicize it much, and it's coming at a point of pretty serious political tension and uncertainty in the country. So what do you think? -
Any low back surgery success stories???
crackers replied to kweb's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
Kelly Cordes' Back Story. I'll try to find you the scan of his back. It was sick. -
I would figure out what software you're going to want to make your site work and then pick the host...
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whats your torso length oly?
