counterfeitfake

AHHHHHHH, now I understand... PG stands for PREVIOUSLY GREEN

nice that summitchaserJO's first crappy reply was left

I don't know why he is posting here when he already has his own thread

this: is harder than toxic shock?

It actually looks like it was a good hanger until it got whanged, I wonder what the story is.

I don't get it, I would clip any of those pieces. Surely you can do better than that for "sketchy".

Damn Sol, I think your wife is tough. Nate, I thought I'd mention it is now permit season. You probably are already aware. Also, if you get back to the car late on Sunday, there is nothing open in town, we drove to Gold Bar before finding a gas station. I really wished I'd stashed a red bull in the car for the drive home.

Please, stop.

I climbed the south face of Prusik the weekend before last. The hike in is about 10 miles (aaaand 5300 feet vertical gain...). We were loaded similarly to how you will be. The entire hike in took us under 8 hours. You could certainly do it faster than us. We hit consistent snow at Snow Lake, though it was melting quick. The lake is low, hike on the sand around the lake instead of trying to follow the meandering bootpack through the trees. There should be a solid bootpack from the lake inlet up Trauma Ridge, but when in doubt stay near the creek instead of heading uphill. How long do you think it'll take you to climb and descend SCW? I think your plan is totally reasonable, and a cool idea. Does anyone know if the bivy site at the base of SCW is legit?

wow! my fave so far:

SF Prusik was completely snow-free last weekend (8 days ago). The NF still had a fair amount of snow on it. We hit solid snow at Snow Lake. Hiking on the sandy beach is much easier than trying to follow the snowy bootpack. I saw a picture of the ICG on Saturday 6/12 that still showed a pretty major cornice.

Because all grades are relative and I generally don't like second-guessing other people who have climbed before me. But that's the easiest 5.10c I've climbed.

I feel bad about spraying this but I think the 5.10c on p3 of DH feels like Index 5.10a. The 5.10b off the ledge on LA was the hardest part of all 6 pitches.

Godzilla? Pretend you're leading as you follow it, then lead it, it's really not a bad lead. Look for rests from which to place gear. Toxic Shock is a great 5.9. Follow Breakfast of Champions. Lead the first 2 pitches of GM and follow the third pitch of Heart of the Country. Libra crack isn't exactly fair, the start of that one is really thin and hard. Really, every route is different, there is no one ten that you can follow to be prepared for all nines. Just lead a route you have followed already so you are more comfortable with it.

I also think it's worth mentioning that falls as severe as those in the test are nearly impossible in the real world.

I don't see the need to extend your rappel device, and don't really get what you're asking. But I think you're taking the wrong message away from that video, the message is just that you should not fall directly onto a sling. I often use a Metolius PAS and make an effort to keep it tight as long as I'm anchored in.

I watched the video and didn't really see anything that was new, here is what I got from it: - Nylon is not very elastic. - Dyneema is even less elastic. - Tying a knot in Dyneema halves it's strength (I believe similar is true with nylon). - If you anchor in with either of these inelastic materials, you SHOULD NOT put yourself in a position to fall upon the anchor. Even falling 2 feet can put a huge amount of force on the system. - All the forces at which slings failed this test are above the point where pro and human bodies start to break.

Here's a picture that shows how it could go wrong: http://www.petzl.com/us/node/9886 This looks like fundamentally the same problem with clipping a biner into the end of a daisy chain as well as one of the bar-tacked loops.

Where do you get writeups like this?

Toproping in the seracs is a great idea. I'd wait a little while for some more snow to melt, once the holes are all open you can walk around pretty safely. I have found conditions pretty good by late July. Make sure you know how to build a really good anchor and then have fun.

Burgundy Spire would be great, but the snow on the approach can be pretty hard depending on the weather. Maybe give a crash course in crampons. Or, kick steps the evening before.

sweet blog

I think I've got a decent handle on how to judge weather forecasts in the US. How do you guess what the weather is going to be in Squamish? Enviro Canada and weather.ca have wildly different takes on the coming weekend.

Hike up from the top of Gorilla, and climb Plum Pudding! Very fun 5.9 lieback corner. Maybe like Sr. Citizens but steeper. Ah shit, Cummins says Plum Pudding is 10a. http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/middle.gif vs http://mountainproject.com/v/washington/index_town_walls/mid_wall/106386419 Can 5.10a feel like 5.9?? Don't ask me, I've never even climbed at Index.

...because you can't wait to gtf off the mountain. I was in pretty good shape, Rainier was my first high climb, I seem to recall leaving around midnight, summitting around 7am, getting back to Muir around 1pm, getting back to the cars around 5pm. The hike down from Muir was pretty brutal.