spotly

Trip: Goat Wall - Prime Rib (of goat) Date: 4/15/2007 Trip Report: Started at 9 and topped out at 3:30. The route was clear and pretty clean. One snow bank on pitch 8 required bypassing the first bolt with a long unprotected but easy traverse. Rock was nice and dry. Wound up as a team of three but swapping leads was still pretty efficient and everyone led their share. A few really good pitches with some nice exposure and a bunch of ok ones. A good route to start off the season. No rockfall problems. Got real lucky with the weather. The route was in the shade till about pitch 6 or so but the temp was just high enough to stay warm and when the sun finally hit the rock....great stuff. Worth the trip from Spokane. Gear Notes: Single rope (we took 2 [team of 3]). 14 Draws. Approach Notes: The approach described on the topo is accurate. Staying in the talus to the right of the path/scree seemed to work best when slogging up the talus field. Dry - no snow on the trail.

Dammit! At 49, I don't often get opportunities to "rebel" anymore. Guess I'll have to reconsider cotton. This is great news and from following it, it took lots of hard work. Thanks.

I've got a summer weight Montbell. It's a quality bag but won't take alot in the way of abuse. I figured since I'm carrying (after last years unplanned bivy) an ultralight down coat and bivy anyway, I can get away with the higher rating bag. The stretch and the light weight make all the difference to me. Somewhat pricey but worth it. As far as fill....what they said.

Did I say "Granite"? Oh...guess I did I'm pretty single minded lately. Everything is granite. Thanks Pindude - I found a spot to get the Bow Valley Rock book.

Back of the Lake sounds good. Couldn't find Bow Valley Granite locally so I'll order it on-line. Thanks for the suggestions.

Nice job. Sounds like tiringly good fun! Any pics?

Looking for some moderate cragging in a scenic area up there. Easy/short approach and moderate routes. Someplace to spend a day relaxing and climbing. Any recommendations?

Nice job Eric and nice pics. We'll have to try again early next year - still wanna do that route.

Have a trip planned for that weekend but if I'm here, I'll be out to help and get some climbing in.

Soon the snow will be melted, exposing all of the curves and lines of the luscious granite below. THEN it'll be "porn" These are just the start of a strip-tease Nice pics!

[insert my people-trashing-minne-more-than-usual rant here] I've cleaned a lot of trash from the cracks this year but it just keeps coming back! Thanks for grabbing that can for me Steve. Wish I had some better organizational skills cause the state of my favorite crag is down right depressing this year.

Got out to Minne Friday and Saturday....and Sunday. Decided to get over the Love Bulge and Mad Dog. What a couple of great routes (especially the upper sections) - can't believe I've never tried em before. Did some aid practice on the secondary face - need more LOL. Temps this week look sucky though. Did you make it over this way after all?

Just my way of looking at it and I can see valid points both ways (garbage, tradition, and so on) but...If it's a new project you're putting up, leave the draws if you want but consider that just because someone climbs doesn't mean they're a part of the climbing community - don't be too surprised if the draws aren't there later. If it's an established route, take em down so others can climb it without having to remove them first or trust that they're in ok codition. Leaving your draws hanging on an established route is no different that leaving a TR hanging at a busy crag while you eat lunch. Don't assume that just because you can't get it done, noone else would want to give it a try. If you want to climb a route with draws hanging, remove them and leave em laying as your own morality dictates then screw anyone who gets pissed about it. If you take the draws though....you deserve whatever bad Karma you get. As I said, just my own set of operaing instructions. Different instructions may yield the same results in the end As for the original post...that blows. Hope you find your draws.

Blessings are aid.

Created in the 80s maybe? 18 is correct though.

Thanks. Would wind up being one more shiney piece sitting in the big blue bin then.

Anybody here try these? Good - bad - yawn? Was thinking of checking out a few in the smaller sizes. http://www.viamontgear.com/images/pdfs/pdf_tri-camscombi_booklet.pdf

http://www.nps.gov/archive/mora/general/maps/mapcompass.pdf

Cragging - Monkey Face Alpine - Mt. Baker Summit Scenic - Mt. Stuart Sunset Shadow Humor - One Rough Ride

Everyone I climb with has the rope coming out the bottom. It's the way I was taught as well and it seems unatural to have it the other way...to me. As for not keeping the rope in brake position, I've seen lots of people doing this, even some pretty experienced people. One friend tells me he does it because it gives a bit more of a dynamic belay. Not sure of the validity of that but on sport or TR, I'd prefer a quicker catch as I trust the bolts to hold. Maybe that's valid for ice or sketchy trad placements? Either way, for me it's rope out the bottom and hand in brake position.

I'm looking at the Brunton Nomad V2 Pro Digital Altimeter. Haven't heard much about it but the price is right (cheap), providing it's accurate.

I try to be responsible but it's hard to keep up with all these rules - if not REI, then where?

Did I see those heavy metal ones on your rack last year? I think so.

Glad it wasn't more serious and that you got down and back up again before dark. Did the SAR folks mention why they don't usually like one of the original party ro lead them back up?

Thanks Alpinfox.