spotly

Our plan too. Best weather is for Saturday but can't get out till sunday (possible thunder storms). If you're out and back in time to post something Saturday, I'd appreciate it. Hoping to play on some snow slopes on the way in.

We did. Setting it up for aid but ran out of gear. We'll be back soon though. I red flagged it so climb at your own risk. Oh, and feel free to use my portaledge halfway up pitch 3.

True, but we didn't head into this undertaking lightly. Months of training and planning should have ensured success. We missed the window however. Perhaps next year...and with a camera crew.

Yes.

Trip: The Tooth - Date: 5/19/2007 Trip Report: A few of us headed up to do The Tooth on Saturday. We had planned on getting onto the route late in the afternoon, doing a bivy up top then heading back down Sunday morning. The drive from Spokane was fast...as usual. Last time we did the climb, we took the trail around the right side of the creek then traversed above Source Lake and up to Great Scott. This time we followed the path in the snow to the left of the creek then up near the left shore of the mostly frozen lake. Snow was in great shape - hardly any post-holing. It was steep getting up to Pineapple Pass but great steps. Had to climb over a huge chunk of snow, ice and debris at the top. Then it started to snow and the temperature dropped...alot. It took us 2 hours to reach the main route and by then, the snow and ice had covered the rock pretty good and we elected to do a double rope rap back to Great Scott then head home. Denied. Stopped for burgers on the way home and go back to Spokane around 2 in the morning. Gear Notes: Bivy bags, 2 ropes, M&Ms Approach Notes: Rainy but good snow.

Anyone been up there yet? Is the west side (Horton Ridge) road clear to the TH? Approach/route conditions? Thanks

If I wanted to hear about nothing other than "noteworthy" climbs I'd subscribe to one of the many rags out there that give way too much attention to routes I'll never climb and 5.14 climbers I'll never hang with. I wanna read about "ordinary" adventures that I can relate to and I want to able to share my non noteworthy accomplishments with others as well.

I think you mean nwhikers."net" That's the thing about using "dumb" bombs in war - always get collateral damage.

Nice job. I'd like to get over there this year too, preferably before it gets way too hot. How were the ticks - I hear they get pretty bad there? Couldn't find alot of beta on-line for that route other than it runs 5.8ish. Any other easy-to-protect 5.8ish or less routes in there that might be fun? How long was the drive from here?

I've been there once during early summer and the route was obvious - follow the trail to above Source Lake then cut across the slope well above the lake to the trees, up a gully to Great Scott then on to Pineapple Pass blah blah. Anyhoo, we plan on heading up there next weekend in the late evening and bivying so, since I have a bad memory, I decided to look up the approach in the "Selected Climbs" book to see how long it would take. I noticed (if I read correctly) that the book says to go below the lake to the ridge then up through the trees. Is that correct or would the correct approach cut across the top of the lake? Also, how long (average pace) does it take to get to Pineapple Pass? How were the snow conditions up there last weekend? Thanks for whatever you have.

Those numbers illustrate my point too. It's a legitimate observation/question and I'm simply asking if it's valid. As for the numbers, they're just examples but if anyone is compelled to take them as literals, they can borrow my tape

You're good....and bad.

If you place your first at 12 then tried to place your second at 22, it seems like you'd deck if you fell before the clip. Assuming you have no other reason to place pro other than distance (no ledges, bulges and so on), wouldn't something along the lines of 10, 15, 25, 35...ensure against a ground-fall?

I could help on the 2nd-3rd, 9th-10th and 16th-17th but have trips planned for the last part of the month. Also willing to pitch in some change for the materials and an extra truck for hauling.

If you're looking for an answer, read this post or do a Google. You'll see that rappel accidents have killed a fair number of experienced climbers over the years. Not sure where your immunity comes from but I choose to believe if it can happen to one person, it can happen to another and therefore isn't something to be tossed aside as trivial like you've been doing (here and elsewhere). That's "the big deal" Doesn't mean you're an idiot if you don't use one each and every time but if you're totally dismissive of EVER using them because you just don't get "what the deal is" then you are an idiot.

I carry 15 feet of 9/16 tubular and a few rap rings. I would trust a single bolt only if I had to.

I know you've been waiting, which is why we headed over there before the grand opening Can't say specifically about that route but there was a large patch of of snow to the east of our route that was still on the wall. I contacted the N. Cascade guides for current beta and they provided pretty accurate info on conditions.

Actually, I don't believe I said anything along the lines of "from what I've read" but, there was some constructive advice given regarding the use of single knot per strand along with accompanying reasons. Those posts were useful.

Do you tie individual nots in each end? I just tie both ends into a single knot. Kinda hard to pull the rope unless you untie it that way.

Hmm. Shouldn't the percentage on the poll add up to 100?

Even above the device may not keep you from rapping off the ends unless you're very quick to release the knot. I'm also not real sure about the arguement for avoiding a knot because it can get caught in a crack. While it's possible, the rare times that I've had my rope catch on something on rappel, I just cleaned it on the way down. Doesn't seem like a strong enough reason on its own. I usually tie a knot if I can't see the ends or they're hanging out over the wall.

I could hook up occassionally for some trad. I'm only leading easily protected moderates right now though. Still, if you have some more difficult stuff you're interested in, I can belay and follow. Couldn't go on a regular schedule cause already doing too many days per week (according to my spousal unit). I'm off at 3 daily.

I don't think "rock climbing" and mountaineering are necessarily exclusive of each other. Mountaineering can involve climbing rock, snow, ice.. Maybe the distinction you're looking for is between Alpine Rock and cragging?

I'd like to help with that project. The secondary face and over by Don Q are getting really bad too. Were you planning on a big project or sticking to the main wall? Did you have a date in mind?

Congrats! Some nice shots selected.