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Everything posted by spotly
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[TR] Goat Wall - Prime Rib (of Goat) 6/11/2007
spotly replied to fredrogers's topic in North Cascades
I liked the exposure on the last pitch as well. Looked like some nice exploring could be had up top there - maybe next trip. Pitch 8 was pretty interesting too. Long and with good bolt placements. I'm not a huge fan of slopers but still found it to be a fun lead. Seemed that was the only pitch that had rock similar to what you find at the crag there too. The rock on the rest of the route was quite a bit different...if I recall right. -
When I was 9, my brother and I were given $5 to walk to the store and pick up a few groceries for our Mom. On the way, I straggled behind looking for horned toads and lizards. About halfway there I found a crisp 5 dollar bill! My brother and I were elated as we ran the rest of the way to the store. We bought pastries and candy and pop and chips and everything else ($5 went along ways back then). We sat on the porch of the small store and ate till we were sick. When we were done, we decided it was time to buy the groceries we were sent there for. We were shocked to discover that my brother had LOST the $5 we were given. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit that rather than connecting the dots, we spent several hours searching for that money. When we got home, Mom had a hard time believing our story. Idiots. Only somewhat similar (not really I guess) but your story reminded me of it so thought I'd share. I am not the same person as that idiot child....mostly.
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I get alot out of watching others climb a route I just climbed. Lots of different ways to make it to the top. I don't mind people watching but I'd prefer they don't listen
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Sorry about the paint. I'm hoping that Spokane County Parks and Rec will use some of the money they recently obtained from leasing out a weeks worth of exclusive access to some film company for organizing and helping to fund some sort of cleanup.
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Ok. I haven't had this issue so I have done some more research because I'm confused by a few of the posts. From what I've found out, if you put the fat rope through the anchor (pull the skinny), the stretch from the skinnier rope will cause the knot to move towards the rap ring/biner - not the other way around. Even so, it's suggested that this is still preferred over putting the skinnier rope through the anchor, especially if you're just running through a piece of webbing (heat from the movement). Anyhoo, that's according to Craig Leubben in "How to Rappel" and after talking to a few of my more experienced climbing partner. Not sure it's that big of an issue but since it was brought up...wanted to get the "skinny" on it Seems some of your real world experiences suggest otherwise though.
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Are these directions good for this time of year? I'm familiar with the path that stays to the left (in the trees) on the Cascadian, which pops out into the couloir above all the brush at the bottom. Is this the same path mentioned above? Anyone know if the west ridge would likely be doable right now?
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How's the rock on Ingalls (N) look - dryish?
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Intersting stuff. Just so I got it straight, if I put the fatter rope through the anchor ("pull the skinny rope"), because the skinny rope stretches more, the knot tends to be drawn tight into the biners? So put the skinny rope through the anchor and pull the big one after the rap? Did I get that right? Also, what are the properties of a double fisherman that causes it to be more prone to getting stuck over an EDK? Is it just knot size or does it also have to do with how the rope falls through certain features when the strands project from each end of the knot (like a double fishermans) vs from the same side (like an EDK). Benches vs cracks? And so on...
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I've joined my 8.9 and 10.2 using a triple fishermans.
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Minnehaha or Post Falls. Minne directions: http://www.climbingsource.com/LocalBeta/Washington/minnehaha.html
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Trip: Stevens Peak - North Ridge Date: 6/2/2007 Trip Report: The trail is snow free to the bowl below the Lower Lake but looked like plenty of snow beyond that to the lake (in the trees). We cut straight up to the ridge after crossing the creek and hit consolidated snow about 100 feet below the ridge top then snow and rock to the summit. Decided to make a longer loop trip down by following the ridge west of Lone Lake basin, which was all snow till we reached the old logged out area. That was a crappy choice since the skidder roads lower down were hell on the ankles and feet. Good exercise but a sweltering day out (high 90s). Gear Notes: Brought ax - didn't need it. Poles Sunblock - lots! Shades Approach Notes: Good creek crossing on small logs 100' below the trail. Dry rock till 100 feet below the ridge top then snow and rock.
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I like my C4s but don't have anything larger than a #3. I'd like to pick up the #4 and #5 but before I do, any other suggestions? I've heard the C4s might not be the best choice in the larger sizes due to weight and stability. Brand loyalty aside, is there a better option?
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The road is clear to the west side TH (Horton Ridge)?
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Planned spooning....I just can't.
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[TR] Goat Wall, Mazama, WA - Prime Rib 5/27/2007
spotly replied to catbirdseat's topic in North Cascades
Only if you're willing to risk decking in a fall. Assuming this is Prime Rib, the route is well bolted and some might say "over bolted" but what you're saying would be like free-soloing, which is fine if that's what you're into. But lest someone get the wrong impression - you cannot skip 4 or 5 bolts in a row on any pitch on that route and be protected....at all. The longest pitch is 130 feet of 5.8ish and takes 13 draws. I would not climb it with only 2 pieces of pro. But that's me. -
Yeah, I think it's the same thing. (the one in my avatar!), Here's some pics: Highway Rock
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There's a nice trad route next to the highway at Highway Rock called Washington Pass that's 5.8. Takes 2 ropes to rap. Cross the marshy area at the end of the inlet that seperates the rock from the highway, directly next to the large pull-out then head left for 40 or so yards to the obvious crack. Pretty nice route. Take a 4" cam. The guide book says you can continue to the top (5.8) as well. There are a few other (though stiffer) cracks in there and plenty of real nice bolted routes as well.
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Took off at 6 this morning but called it quits when it became obvious the clouds were getting darker up north. Turned out nice in Spokane so now I wish we'd gone anyway - who knows. If ya get up there, lemme know how the road is.
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I agree. Even though I keep mine hidden as best I can, it's still a huge risk. Gotta figure out a better way.
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Well, there was a chick there with a dog who kept yelling "come, come" but I'm sure I've got the spelling correct.
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It was lively the times we've been there but with all the heavy camping goods (BBQ grill, chairs, coolers...) the walk-in camping woulda sucked. Plus, big fire with marshmallows and beer...mmmmm.
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I've usually got tons of gear hanging out in the back seat of the truck just-in-case we get good enough weather to climb after work. Sometimes I have it in there at the TH too, just-in-case we need it for craggin on the way home from a hike or climb. This is a good reminder to me to check with my insurance company to make sure my stuff is covered and what kind or documentation I need in case it's stolen. Don't have most of the receipts anymore. Anyone else here ever had their gear ripped off - what kinda hoops did your insurance company put you through as far as porving what was stolen? Hope your friend is insured and/or gets his gear back.
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[TR] Mt. Stuart, W. Ridge Notch Couloir (partial)
spotly replied to coldiron's topic in the *freshiezone*
Me too. -
Showed up yesterday to a closed parking area. There's room for 2 cars just east then the next parking available is near the dam. There's a movie crew there doing some filming and they have a permit to close the parking off. They ran some climbers away from the main face and even tried to kick us off the wall. It appears they have a permit for the parking area but not for the county park so climbing is still available and they'll be done after Friday. Just a heads up.