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Everything posted by spotly
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Yes I did! Small (and strange) world. So, were you one of the guys that we swapped routes with?
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The Infinity was my first choice but after doing a bit of reading here and there and talking to a few more people, I opted to go with twins. Ok - I'm fickled! But the Mummut Twilight 7.5mm looks real nice on paper (weight, falls, blah blah). Seems like a good choice?! For the money, I can only hope at this point since I just pressed the "Process Order" button at JustRopes. I don't get the benefits you mentioned regarding the doubles but they're a fraction lighter and being the slog-wuss I am...Oh no, I've got twins! LOL. Thanks for the advice and the PMs.
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I don't think I'm up for taking a fall on any ole 8.5 actually Thanks though. I'm looking for recommendations for a single. I've read various reports on some of the newer ultralight singles but was wondering if anyone here had a preference....in a single.
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I'm looking to get a light weight single for alpine use only. Weight is a concern of course, but I don't want some POS that'll fall apart after just a few climbs either. Any recommendations? Thanks
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Went out there to check em out today. The big roof looks intimidating. Left when I saw the naked guy draped over a rock like he had been skewered by it. WTF.
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I feel your pain. Be sure to post on NWHikers.net too.
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Just picked up a pair of Motorola FV200s. Very light, small and uses 3 triple A batteries. Claim is they'll get 5 miles so should be good to at least 60 meters
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I've used a front-loader and about half the amount of Woolite as recommended...with cold water. I also ran the machine through on an empty hot cycle first, just to make sure there was nothing left over from the previous load. Maybe a waste of $2 but just my preference. So, how did it happen? Got sketched out on lead? I can relate
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2.9 ounces - pretty light.
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Climb: Banks Lake-Several Date of Climb: 8/20/2006 Trip Report: Went to Highway Rock at Banks Lake over the weekend and climbed Downtown, Bono, The Edge, Unknown Name, Suprehension and Creamsicle Buttress. Downtown is an excellent climb. Second time on it and I'll probably do it every trip. Bono was good - it's got a nice crack at the top that took some grunting on lead last time there. This time it was actually kinda pleasant...following Supprehension (lake side) is a must-do. It's short but has some great features. Above Supprehension, Creamsicle Buttress was given 3 stars in the new guide book - good view from the top anyway. Geesh, it was HOT! Anyhoo, did I mention that Downtown was a great climb?! Rated at 5.6 "with a short 5.10 traverse at the bottom." LOL. Brian F. lead it this time and took a low, stretchy move - I did a tension traverse with a double-length runner and my best Tarzan yell to get that piece (shame). Brian on Downtown On the lake side - Supprehension Preparing to rap off of Supprehension Top of Creamsicle Buttress Gear Notes: 14 quickdraws 2 ropes Poison ivy soap Approach Notes: Right off the highway near Electric City.
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If it's yours and you want it back, let me know.
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Based on previous years and the weather this year, what are the odds of running into ice or snow problems on the west ridge in early September? Sure, always a possibility but..the odds. I'm thinking of heading back again but I'd think bailing off that 3rd/4th class gully with thin snow or ice would be a pain at least.
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That must have been at the third bolt? Was there too much slack or some other reason you decked? I caught my friend from about that same spot and he didn't come close to decking - no "reeling in" going on either. Just curious.
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Nice job. The lost arrow pic is great.
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Ha! Actually had a (just one!) beer as we watched the storm roll through. It WAS fun, thanks. Just got off the phone with Lloyd - they opted to bail near the top and got caught by the storm before reaching the pass. I'm thinking he'll be buying a new alarm clock soon
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Camped Friday then climbed Saturday early. Clouds looked dark to the east so didn't waste alot of time gawking. Must have gotten off route (what's new) because it seemed much stiffer than 5.3. A fun route, especially the second pitch. Did the big mantle move at the top instead of going left. Bootied a brand new red tricam. Got down as the thunder and lightning started. Met two friends who were heading up the first pitch. They kept going but I think they bailed before we made it back to the saddle. The hail started dumping as we broke camp. Impeccible timing! Fun climbing, good friends and burgers with beer afterwards. Take me to rock now!
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Wow - 5!? Which route would that be?
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Tragic. Beer cans, cigarette butts, bolt wars, Donny Baker?! Spotly, please tell me that Spokane has just been getting negative press (like Bush? ) here on CC, and that there are tons of cool, non-feuding, non-polluting, tolerant climber out there. Of course...there are 3 of us if you include Donny
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I believe that was their original purpose. Mainly for teaching newbies the mechanics of rapping without them having to also worry about lowering over the edge safely. I used them the first time off the top with help from people like Steve and I can say they were very helpful and allowed the instructors to make sure I was hooked up right. Regarding recreational rappers, I'm out there at least 3 days a week and I have seen a huge increase this year. Not sure if that's a terrible thing or not - just a nuisance at this point. There is one group in particular that has been chucking their beer cans and cigarette butts all over the routes - I know who they are because I've met them but haven't seen them since I've noticed their garbabe. Could be possible that someone else reached their limit with them and started whacking bolts - just a guess. If so, good intentions but bad choice IMHO.
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I think we saw your light as well (pretty late at night if I recall). I guess we figured we'd take our chances on finding the path rather than scramble the ridge. Seemed like it shoulda been easy enough. Funny that we bivied so close to it I promised to take a friend back to do the route so should go faster and smoother the second time through. If not, I'll have to keep doing it until it does - dang it!
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With all due respect... Not the mullet!
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newbie question about MonkeyFace @ Smith Rock
spotly replied to MountainGirl_Boston's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Actually I meant a key gate but yer right of course, a fifi would be the ticket. Just a random intra-question - seems if a person was a bit nervous about the fifi for the first time(I was - seemed like not enough of a positive curve), that maybe a biner might feel more secure. Woulda been a pain to move though. Anyway, the fifi didn't slip off so must have been ok - right!? -
newbie question about MonkeyFace @ Smith Rock
spotly replied to MountainGirl_Boston's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
My partner aided it then sent the aiders down and I did the same on TR. Worked great. Watch the wind on the rap. It was howling through the gap when we came down and had the potential for getting a pretty good spin going. We did it with 14 draws but had to be pretty creative with back-cleaning. It was my only aid but I wonder if I'd have felt better with a key lock biner instead of the fifi?! -
In case anyone is interested, I put some pictures and a long TR HERE