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No doubt you were wondering so as to get up a bit earlier LOL. I hadn't met these guys before yesterday but they were a hoot and I'm looking forward to getting onto some good rock routes with em. But if it's an overnighter, I think I'll find a more remote spot to car camp and bring some ear plugs. Carl and I were the older guys - need more rest

I think so. I was with the overly excited and abnoxiously loud though very nice group that had to be asked to be quiet....with the shark tent. Some very good craggers out on their first alpine climb.

Went back again today and got to the top. Interesting rock. Surprised to have the route to ourselves on a nice Saturday. Also checked the smell of that red snow on the way down - just like ya said, watermelon! My pouser partner, Carl on the summit:

Cool read. Can't wait.

Large sections of the 2nd gully looked pretty loaded with snow last Saturday as well.

Thanks CBS.

Can I get away with aluminums for this route or is there a fair amount of rocky terraine to cross over where taking crampons off would be too much of a pain? Thanks

Looks like you had a nice day for it. What's the more popular route and approach later in the year?

You guys are gnarly.

I've used the Yates Rocker for a few years now. Fallen a few times on it. It does feed smoothly. Gotta keep an eye on the feed with thicker ropes or when you've got only light weight attached to the end.

A timely reply. I was just wondering what the proper name of that algae is. Thanks.

Trip: Ingalls Peak - South Ridge Date: 6/16/2007 Trip Report: After being denied Colchuck and Little Annapurna last weekend, I decided to continue the trend by heading up to Ingalls Peak with Carl. Snow on the trail near Ingalls Pass then solid beyond that. The weather turned foul then even fouler (more foulish) at the top of the first pitch. We bailed then romped around the lake. At the outlet we checked out the start for a possible future traverse from East Peak to South Peak - looks like it could be a fun time. Circled around the lake then headed back to the TH.

1. Deproaching. 2. Always carrying my own tent because it's too difficult to deal with a masturbating tent mate.

I liked the exposure on the last pitch as well. Looked like some nice exploring could be had up top there - maybe next trip. Pitch 8 was pretty interesting too. Long and with good bolt placements. I'm not a huge fan of slopers but still found it to be a fun lead. Seemed that was the only pitch that had rock similar to what you find at the crag there too. The rock on the rest of the route was quite a bit different...if I recall right.

When I was 9, my brother and I were given $5 to walk to the store and pick up a few groceries for our Mom. On the way, I straggled behind looking for horned toads and lizards. About halfway there I found a crisp 5 dollar bill! My brother and I were elated as we ran the rest of the way to the store. We bought pastries and candy and pop and chips and everything else ($5 went along ways back then). We sat on the porch of the small store and ate till we were sick. When we were done, we decided it was time to buy the groceries we were sent there for. We were shocked to discover that my brother had LOST the $5 we were given. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit that rather than connecting the dots, we spent several hours searching for that money. When we got home, Mom had a hard time believing our story. Idiots. Only somewhat similar (not really I guess) but your story reminded me of it so thought I'd share. I am not the same person as that idiot child....mostly.

I get alot out of watching others climb a route I just climbed. Lots of different ways to make it to the top. I don't mind people watching but I'd prefer they don't listen

Sorry about the paint. I'm hoping that Spokane County Parks and Rec will use some of the money they recently obtained from leasing out a weeks worth of exclusive access to some film company for organizing and helping to fund some sort of cleanup.

Ok. I haven't had this issue so I have done some more research because I'm confused by a few of the posts. From what I've found out, if you put the fat rope through the anchor (pull the skinny), the stretch from the skinnier rope will cause the knot to move towards the rap ring/biner - not the other way around. Even so, it's suggested that this is still preferred over putting the skinnier rope through the anchor, especially if you're just running through a piece of webbing (heat from the movement). Anyhoo, that's according to Craig Leubben in "How to Rappel" and after talking to a few of my more experienced climbing partner. Not sure it's that big of an issue but since it was brought up...wanted to get the "skinny" on it Seems some of your real world experiences suggest otherwise though.

Are these directions good for this time of year? I'm familiar with the path that stays to the left (in the trees) on the Cascadian, which pops out into the couloir above all the brush at the bottom. Is this the same path mentioned above? Anyone know if the west ridge would likely be doable right now?

How's the rock on Ingalls (N) look - dryish?

Intersting stuff. Just so I got it straight, if I put the fatter rope through the anchor ("pull the skinny rope"), because the skinny rope stretches more, the knot tends to be drawn tight into the biners? So put the skinny rope through the anchor and pull the big one after the rap? Did I get that right? Also, what are the properties of a double fisherman that causes it to be more prone to getting stuck over an EDK? Is it just knot size or does it also have to do with how the rope falls through certain features when the strands project from each end of the knot (like a double fishermans) vs from the same side (like an EDK). Benches vs cracks? And so on...

I've joined my 8.9 and 10.2 using a triple fishermans.

Minnehaha or Post Falls. Minne directions: http://www.climbingsource.com/LocalBeta/Washington/minnehaha.html

Trip: Stevens Peak - North Ridge Date: 6/2/2007 Trip Report: The trail is snow free to the bowl below the Lower Lake but looked like plenty of snow beyond that to the lake (in the trees). We cut straight up to the ridge after crossing the creek and hit consolidated snow about 100 feet below the ridge top then snow and rock to the summit. Decided to make a longer loop trip down by following the ridge west of Lone Lake basin, which was all snow till we reached the old logged out area. That was a crappy choice since the skidder roads lower down were hell on the ankles and feet. Good exercise but a sweltering day out (high 90s). Gear Notes: Brought ax - didn't need it. Poles Sunblock - lots! Shades Approach Notes: Good creek crossing on small logs 100' below the trail. Dry rock till 100 feet below the ridge top then snow and rock.

I like my C4s but don't have anything larger than a #3. I'd like to pick up the #4 and #5 but before I do, any other suggestions? I've heard the C4s might not be the best choice in the larger sizes due to weight and stability. Brand loyalty aside, is there a better option?