spotly

Did you go up the left side as seen in the picture or are you talking about from the lake? Looks like there's a possible line right up the center (just right of the snow patch) that looks stiffer than 4th class? Hard to say from that shot though. I never did make it up there...yet. Looks like a spring trip.

While you were stuck doing this lame route, I was styling up some new "5.9" (read 5.2) stuff at Post Falls - core. Don't be too jeleous though because it sounds like your adventure was ok too Actually, I'm quite jeleous. I've seen the area from above Aasgard Pass and can hardly wait to get in there for some fun on the West Ridge. Nice shot of the humans.

That's one of my favorites out there actually!

What kinda conditions did you get on Athabasca NF (including the glacier) that time of year?

Hmm. We found a little squeeze tunnel in the ridge well below the false summit, marked with a large cairn on the ridge top. After the tunnel was a small, crappy ridge that led down to the Cascadian, which had snow in it at the time(rap slings at the top). Not sure if that descriptor makes sense but...where are these slabs in relation to that? Perhaps under what was snow for us?

Loose stuff can be bad for any marriage

I actually have a pair of those birth control frames and they don't work! As far as lenes (if yer interested), check into the shatterproof polycarbonates. Here's an article on lens and frame choices: http://www.allaboutvision.com/lenses/polycarb.htm As the article mentions, choosing the wrong type of frame can be dangerous.

Anyone wanna do something Saturday? Gotta be done by early afternoon and back to Spokane around 7ish though. I'll follow to 5.9ish and lead to 5.7ish. I'm medium/slow on approach and will safely amuse on route. Things that come to mind: North Trapper MT Idaho Selkirks Chair Peak Spontaneity Arete Something 5.8ish at Washington Pass ?

Gotta love the rock up there. Nice pics.

Thanks all!

We hymned and hawed about hiking up there but decided to head back - shoulda continued on I guess. The temp was rising fast though. That knife-edge ridge to the east looks fascinating too.

Great shot of the roof!

My trip to Stuart N. Ridge next weekend is being pushed off - partner has a foot problem Anyhoo, he still wants to get out for a Fri-Sun trip but gotta scale back. Corteo lools like fun but can't find any beta on routes. Any suggestions? Maybe something else too(If his foot does ok, I doubt this will keep us entertained for long)? Thanks

The route is awesome in the winter when the rock is covered in ice. And amazingly few if any people if your timing is right

When you say they "don't sit right" what do you mean? I've only had my set of 3 for a short time but haven't noticed anything odd.

You went to Vantage in this heat!?

Wow. The haze was fairly thick but we didn't see any concentrated smoke up the canyon or even smell it. Sure looks like a tinderbox in there though. Very dry, lots of fuel.

Nice job! As far as getting the correct exposure when the subject is in shadows, I try to capture the exposure for the sky then drag the subjust out using Photoshop. The details aren't as sharp but if it's a choice of that or washing out the sky, I'd prefer the happy medium. I think there are special filters you can get if you're shooting with an SLR (doubtful on a 5.11 climb - LOL). Anyhoo, that's my method butI'm sure there are others that would be much better. Nice shots by the way.

Instant taters with powdered butter and dried meat or tofu bacon bits. All put into ziplock baggies. Add hot water and squish to mix. Yummy.

Trip: Blodgett Canyon (Blackfoot Dome) - SE Shoulder/E Face Date: 7/28/2007 Trip Report: Last time I went to Blodgett Canyon was to climb Shoshone Spire. The rock quality was so good I could hardly wait to get back and try something else. There are alot of established routes in the canyon but the only thing left within my capability was the East Face route on Blackhead Dome. Advertised as a moderately run-out 5.6, 4 pitch climb, seemed like a good option. I hadn't done anything with Ken B. since climbing Snowshoe Peak several year ago so I was glad when he sent me an email expressing interest. We agreed to leave Friday, climb early Saturday then back to Spokane in time for dinner. I picked Ken up with the wife's new Yaris and we zipped over to the campground at Blodgett in time to get setup just before dark. The campground host said the bear was still making its daily visits and was now being joined by a cow and calf moose - joy. I heard some large critters real close to the tent around 4 am and couldn't get back to sleep so got up and wandereded around and woke Ken shortly after. We beat it down the trail looking for the "obvious" first talus slope at the 2 mile mark. We found a spot directly south of the dome to cross the creek and crashed through the brush, taking a more or less direct line up the steep slabs to the base of the route. I did a tic check and was pleasantly surprised that there were none to be found. The first pitch looked pretty mellow so we scrambled up it to a small juniper and set up a belay. Ken won rock-paper-scissors and took off for pitch 2 setting just a few pieces. The climbing was so mellow that we were both pretty disappointed when the top arrived. The route may go 5.6 but only if you look hard for the most difficult moves. I don't think we ran into anything belond 5.3ish (if that). At the top we discussed searching for some fun higher up the valley but in the end, the heat made the decision for us and we sought out the published decent route. From the top, we followed some thin exposed ledges/seams above the slabs of the east face to where it was easy to scramble down to the talus in a gully east of the dome. We followed the talus down (south) staying high to the right in order to get back to the base of the climb. This involved following an animal trail and some 3rd class downclimbing. From what I've read, climbing with packs was the thing to do but I think leaving packs at the base is an option if you make a rightward traverse on the decent of the gully like we did. Following the gully all the way to the creek would suck since it is quite choked with brush near the bottom. If I did the climb again, I would bring extra webbing and some rap rings then do a combination of downclimbing and rapping the route - avoiding the talus and brush in the gully all together. We scanned the terrain between the dome and the creek and chose the most open route to the trail. No tics at all. I looked hard at the brush during the hike out and couldn't find a single one. Ken looking for a log to cross on. Blackfoot Dome. The route runs from the right shoulder. A neat ridge directly east of Blackfoot Dome The route. Gotta look real hard for a 5.6 move. Ken on the second pitch. The top already? The descent was stiffer than the ascent. Gear Notes: Small rack to 2" Half a dozen slings Approach Notes: Cross the creek directly south of the dome and work west a little to more open ground. Follow scree slope up towards left of dome then traverse right on slabs under the S face.

Nice work Tazz. Solo does suck sometimes. And sometimes it's perfect. I've gone through that whole lack of motivation thing numerous times. Anymore I just have to remember how much money it cost in gas just to get to the trailhead. Lacking a partner, that'll help motivate me Sounds like you got a great trip out of it.

In addition to the usual precautions, which I have been lax on at times, I'm thinking of adding a Permethrin product to my tic repellent arsenal. Any pointers on application, brand, so on? Any idea how this stuff might affect slings and such (if at all) after it's dried (was considering spraying inside my pack as well as clothing - overkill?)?

Just be sure you're coming down the correct ridge from Lunch Counter It is possible to be a ridge or so off if it's your first time up it and you leave the TH in the dark. But that's another story, which shall go mostly untold.

From the 15th: Little Annapurna

I've got a pair of the La Sportiva Cirques. They've worn pretty good and have good traction. They are a tad rough on the feet for real long approaches but still perfect for something like say Stuart West Ridge or similar long scrambles. A softer insole will probably smooth things out. I also like the dot rubber for easy resoling.