flashclimber

If buttonheads are on a route and necessary to climb the route...Im game to replace them! Guess Ill be climbing a lot of the classic routes this year to check out what needs replacing. ..."GNS"? how are the chains up there? Last time I was there (3 years ago) there were 3 thin old rusty chains linked together. Im sure they are safe but how 3 stainless steel chains instead? "Air over Aries" and old Yoder slab climb. Anyone been on that in a while? Im gonna scrub it down and check out the bolts on it (I wanna add it to my tick list). Hey Chuck, I was looking at the topo of 10%...Ill see about getting up there (never been to the 5th pitch on 10% before)..the topo makes it look like there are 7 pitches...Ill check out the anchors too (anyone ever aid it to the top before? I solo aided it to the 3 pitch) "City Park"..probably wont touch the lower bolt on pitch 2...sounds like people want it removed rather than replaced...but how about the 2 bolts higher up? They any good? Pitch 3...anyone been up there this year? I was up there 2 years ago..does it need cleaning again? "Phone calls from the dead"...gonna take a look at that route while on "GM"...Could be a fun route to work this year!

Im looking for a midweek climbing partner...I have gear and lead up to 11d. Sport or Gear is ok with me...I climb at Index, Si, exit 38 and wherever the weather is...Im available form 11-6 in the afternoon. Flashclimber@hotmail.com Im not picky...m/f...5.6-5.13 I just like to climb!

If u are interested in climbing at Index I am Available midweek and weekends from 11-5(ish)...I work nights. Send me a message if u want to head on up...I climb with all levels as long as they know how to belay!

Ushba recommends using a Hilti glue http://www.ushba.com/catalog/tortuga.htm There is also a Rawl drop in tube glue...ill most likely use the manufacture recommendation. Fixe also makes a stainless glue in...ill look into all options prior to Aprils bolt replacement.

All the bolts and the anchor need replacing on Terminal Prepie...I worked that route last year..no long falls..but all the bolts are rusted..its a slab and water runs on it all year...ill be replacing the bolts with titanium glue-ins so they last longer...Hey guys I wont change any bolts on any route where someone is threatening to chop them..its just a waste of time and stupid..I.E. "Cunning Stunt" if u guys remember that fiasco. But there are a lot of routes that need bolt replacement and im willing to put the time in! Sloe Children bolt? We'll see...if ur tall its easy to by-pass that 1/4"...Personally Ive never used it since there is that nut placement right above it...however if the FA says its ok..then Ill change it.

I agree with u guys on both of those routes...especially "slow children" that 1/4" is pretty funny to look at..the one right above it could use a new bolt too. nIll check out 10% in the next week to see how bad it is...weather permitting.

Im going to retro bolting a few routes at Index this year. NO! Im not adding any bolts...just replacing the old rusted out bolts that add 3 grades to the route. If you have a favorite route bolt or anchor that needs replacing please post it. Im considering spending $200-300 on bolt and anchor replacements at Index this year. (I just got a pay raise). "Terminal Prepie"-bolts and anchors for sure. Any others? I'll listen to all comments before replacing them in April!