Kraken

pretty slim dates Roc...looking like Dec 27- Jan 2, 3 at the most. Probably won't happen unless we get an incredible weather window. If I had more time, I'm sure I could probably be more optimistic, but I doubt I'll catch any luck. Oh well, if nothing else I'll do something, maybe something in teh Olympics.

Holy crap, a BIG BIG BIG thanks to Joe Puryear for flying his ass all the way up here for the slideshow. He really had some incredible photos and route information. If you ever get a chance to hear some of his stories or see his photos, you're lucky. His new AK Range book sounds sweet as hell, can't wait to pick up a copy for myself. THanks a lot Joe! Seriously impressive man!

I know that something like only 200 people successfully summit Rainier in the winter. Last year I missed a genuine winter ascent by TWO lousy days. I'll be down in Seattle for Christmas, and have a few extra days to play around...I'd like to at least attempt a climb. The days are short, nights are cold, weather will be foul, and snow will be deep. I'm looking at something like the Nisqually Icefall, Gibraltar Chute, Fuhrer Finger/Thumb. I did the Gibraltar Ledges last March with Soggyendo34...but March is a hell of a lot different than the dead of December. I guess my question is this: has anyone had any luck at this time of the year? What routes were done? What were the overall conditions? I've got an open mind. I doubt I'll even get a chance to drive down to the park. I'll just kind of wait by the door for a break in the weather, maybe go up to Muir with 5-6 days of food and wait, wait wait. I need a partner who can do the same.

i miss the olympics

I had three two screws in and one piece of webbing wrapped around a pillar. It was the third screw that held the fall with a regular ice screamer that ripped out completely. I am beginning to think now that I might have bumped against something now on the way down because my hip feels slightly soar, but nothing big. I don't know what other details to give.

yeah Dru, it ripped the screamer. The stubby screw held but the ice all around it was fractured and cracked.

I set out with my coworker, john, for Eklutna Canyon at about 930 to climb there for a while. We hadn't climbed together before and decided to get out and fly up a few local falls. A foot of new snow blanketed the trail as we walked down to the falls. We reached, Mad Dog, the first climb on the right side of the canyon. It is a 75 foot tall WI4 with thin curtains and lots of possibilities for mixed sessions. John offered me the lead and I took it. I was climbing leashless with my BD Vipers. It was thin so I brought all 10's and 13's and the same amount of screamers. I got up most of it and was at the near the top, with only probably 3-4 moves to go before I could walk up the rest and top out. There was a big mushroom with a vertical face below it that was about 5 feet high. I swung both tools into the brittle, bulletproof ice and went to pull my body up to resituate my feet. As I pulled up, my left tool made a nasty sound and I knew right away that I was going to take a fall. I started to slowly fall back and I was able to re-sink my right tool into the ice and thought maybe I would be able to hold on. Since I was leashless, I simply ripped right out of my handle. Falling, falling falling...waiting waiting waiting. I knew there was a sloped ledge down below but didn't think I'd hit it. I was really quite calm throughout the fall and just kept waiting for the rope to stretch and stop my fall. Finally it happened after what seemed like a long, long time. "HOLY SHIT!" I said, as I realized I'd stopped. I looked back at John and he was nearly eye to eye with me. I was literally less than 5 feet from the ground. I was able to right myself and touch the wall one time before my foot touched the snow. We did the math and John told me I had taken a fall of 55 feet, but I think it was more like 48-50. I was pumping with adrenaline after that and kept apologizing to John, who kept telling me not to be sorry. We laughed and then I realized I couldn't find my other tool. The one was still in my hand, but we couldn't find the other. It took about an hour but we finally found it and continued to climb. Not bad for my first big lead whipper, eh?

yeah so i've heard.

i got a marmot cwm for a steal of a deal ($300) and am almost worried about it being too warm.

thanks all for clearing that up!

new shelter? I haven't been over to Muir since July, please elaborate. Did they add on to it?

fuckin' dicks. Be generous when the claims guy comes. Didn't you uhh...have your Rolex and collection of rare 1920s gold coins in there too?

Does anyone know if and/or when the Camp Muir shelter will be reopened? They've been doing construction on it since August apparently. I'd like to get up there in December and again in March. Don't think there's much chance of them working on it in the dead of winter so if it isn't done now it probably won't be open until May. If you know anything, let me know.

guess I'll just skip the years of internship and go straight for my AMGA then, I mean...how hard can it be? I'm a pretty good test taker. <| | | (sarcasm flag)

Joe Stock's slideshow last night was awesome. He had an endless set of astonishing photos, all of which were of stuff that is less than a few hours skiing or hiking from Anchorage. The first slideshow brought in $45 dollars for Challenge Alaska and 55 people attended. Lots of buzz in the climbing community up here about these shows, i'm sure the next ones will be even bigger and will raise lots more money for the organization. If any Alaskans read this, come out and see the next show on the 2nd, Charlie Sassara.

I think this is a great discussion and I see both side's perspectives. First of all, I am taking this very seriously and it's a goal I"m working towards on a daily basis. I've been working to get in the best shape, and I hope to climb Rainier another three times before May, as well as Denali, if I'm able to get the time off. Even if I do get hired at RMI, I won't be a lead guide any time soon. I'll be hauling shit down from Muir, digging out snow, and keeping my mouth shut. Basically I'll grunt around and learn. I appriciate all the input though. Thanks

I've been working on this pet project of mine for six months. Finally it's coming together. AMP (Alaska Mountaineering Presentations) is a series of slideshows and lectures from some of Alaska's most prolific climbers. From alpine and altitude, to big wall and ice, I've gathered a group of guys with one common goal, but different ways of getting to it. AMP will be held in Mid November - Mid December. November 11th - Joe Stock November 18th - (PENDING) December 2nd - Charlie Sassara December 9th - Joe Puryear December 16th - Dave Johnston Joe Stock - Recently completed the first ever Anchorage to Valdez traverse (AKA The Crusher Traverse) on skis. 17 days, 175 miles. Featured in the latest Backcountry magazine, he and Andrew Wexler spent 17 days in the Chugach (with at least four of those pinned down at the toes of Marcus Baker). Joe also guides for Alpine Ascents on Denali and has climbed and skied extensively in North and South America, New Zealand, Australia and Southeast Asia. Info Charlie Sassara - First winter summit of the West Rib, Denali. Endless first ascents, unrepeated ascents, and solos in the Chugach. Awarded the coveted David A. Sowles award for his dramatic rescue of partner Jack Tackle, which involved 12 rappels with little gear and an ever shortening rope on 14,000 Mount Augusta in Kluane National Park. Info Joe Puryear - Joe Puryear has climbed over 30 peaks in the Alaska Range and is the author of an upcoming new guide book to the Central Alaska Range to be released this spring. He will be talking about his latest new route on Kichatna Spire - The Black Crystal Arête, as well as some of his favorite alpine adventures including the Infinite Spur on Mt. Foraker and his 15-hour speed ascent of the Cobra Pillar on Mt. Barrill in the Ruth Gorge. Also, he'll be giving an overview of some of the more moderate technical classics to get you psyched for the upcoming Alaskan season. Info Check out his website: CascadeImages.com Dave Johnston - First winter ascent of Denali. First ascent of Foraker's Sultana Ridge, second winter ascent of Foraker. First person to complete the 50 summits in the winter. Dave has also completed the 50 summits in the summer. Info AMP will be held on Friday nights at 7:30 at the UAA Campus. The lectures will be in room 101 of the Business Education Building (BEB). The room is a lecture hall which accomidates roughly 200 people and has professional lighting, sound, and projectors. MAP These lectures are free to the public and there is no parking fee. Donations will be accepted to benefit the club as well as Challenge Alaska, a non-profit organization which provides outdoor recreation opportunities such as rafting, skiing, snowmachining, etc to those with disabilities. For more information, go to AlaskaOutdoorClub.com. More information coming soon.

BD just came out with a new thing for matching hands for the Vipers called the Strike. It may or may not be compatible with the Rages. Might want to check that out.

contact the shop, do an over the phone purchase, get it, have it molded at a store near you.

Thanks Matt, I'll get in touch with you man! Thanks for the helpful advice.

Yeah, The Eklutna canyon (AKA Thunderbird Falls) has lots of good waterfalls. Again, the problem with getting back there is access. The river needs to be frozen before you can really walk back there, but it is a great place to climb, lots of 1-2 pitch climbs ranging from WI3-5. It's on the alaskaiceclimbing.com website too.

last year was a GREAT year for ice. All of the lines on the Turnagain Arm (Seward Highway), which is right next to the ocean, were as fat as ever. We had a mid season melt, but everything came back fatter and thicker. There is already a little ice high up. I've heard reports of ice in the Ram Valley, Eagle River, etc. It's getting cold here fast and the snow level is dropping rapidly. There is already snow down to about 2000 feet in the Western Chugach and I'd reckon that we will have solid ice here by the third week in November at the latest. The common agreement around here this year is that it is going to be a good season. I hope our optimism is infact true. SilverGoat, if you are able to drive a little bit from Palmer, I'd suggest going North on the Glenn Parks Highway and head to Caribou Creek. That little canyon gets next to no sunlight and is always the first to freeze up there. It just depends on if the creek is frozen enough to walk on. I'd check out http://www.alaskaiceclimbing.com. There's a lot of good info on that site. Also, if you can find it, I'd suggest scouring every online resource and used book store down there for "fat city" a book about ice climbs around the periphial of Anchorage. It is long out of print and very hard to find, but is an alaskan ice climber's bible. Get ahold of me when you come up, if there isn't ice in anywhere else, we could always go to the Matanuska Glacier and climb some overhanging lines there.

Yeah, if you're dead set on La Sportivas, I'd still go with the Nuptses. Cheaper than the Oly Mons and if you still aren't warm enough, you CAN put intuition thermalmolds in them, although most people don't...and if you STILL want more warmth, additional overboots. You will end up still spending less than the Oly Mons and will inevitably have more options. Get what you feel is best for you though. Good luck.