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kevbone

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Everything posted by kevbone

  1. Those pics are great. What climbs are they?
  2. Dont forget about the Gunsmoke!
  3. Why are you hand drilling? Drills are not that much these days.
  4. Like we tried to tell you from the start. Rain, does wonders with chalk.
  5. Ru, sooooo many more climbers get on Heresy than shoes, your just pissed cause you cant do it.
  6. 4 inchs long by 3/8 or 1/2 are the standard these days. Hand drilling will be about 20 minutes or longer a hole. Try to use stanless steel.
  7. When you did Room to shroom, did you do the 10.b left extension?
  8. I wonder where they got the name for Clean and Jerk?
  9. I dont know, is wasnt alive then to get the feel of the community. Sorry.
  10. You mean warming up for this?
  11. Camping at the tree!
  12. Here is another Jtree classic. Anyone know what it is?
  13. How about "little yosemite", behind half dome. Spent 2 nights there.
  14. would you mind and give us the web site please!
  15. I'm not sure if I quoted the quote correctly or not but whatever. I'm implying that people seem to keep the climber tight and the rope at its shortest which on Heresy means standing basically directly under the bolt. Even if you aren't under the bolt, most belayers, if they have the rope super tight (which they shouldn't but do) get pulled off their feet and swing directly underneath the bolt where they meet the falling climber who is swinging in from the right. The ground there is not exactly level and I (250lbs.) get pulled off my feet if my partner (160lbs.) falls off. I have not stood directly under the bolt and I'm also not even belaying in the future, I'm spotting. Where do you propose the belayer should stand if you were going to keep the climber tight? It seems like until they get to the first bolt, there is no point in belaying them anyways. They're feet are only like 6' off the ground at that point anyways. Again, that's what the entourage* is for. Especially when it's now 11c/d which I'll gladly accept cause it feels that hard for me. I for surly think it is at least 11.c, I have stated that openly from the first time I sent it 3 years ago. As for holding the rope tight??? I stand under the rock almost, under the bolt, but near the rock itself. If you fall without a rope and land on your back, your screwed and may end up going to the hospital. If you fall with a rope attached to you. Then depending where you are on the rail. You stand a chance in only your feet hitting as you swing. I personally would rather have a chance than not. I have lead it both ways, with and without a stick clip. Would rather use one if it around. Either way I love that bolted boulder problem.
  16. And now for the biggest spray yet. I played guitar at his wedding! He married my ex-girlfriend. Go toni!
  17. "Camp 4 excluded" Hidden valley jtree has some pretty good memories, and my personal home away from home. The Skull hollow, camp ground at Smith rock. I can’t even try to count how many times I have slept there over the last 11 years. I did spend New Years 00 in Skull Hollow. Place was packed and cold.
  18. Yep, very entertaining.
  19. All great climbs. Fote Hog. Do it every time. Dangling and CIOABS is fricken 5 stars.
  20. Anybody done the second pitch to Mental Physics? I did it a few years back. One bolt in about 100 of climbing. Problem is the crux is 20 feet from the belay, before you clip the "one bolt". And the crux is straight up from the belay. If you blow it. You are going to fall on your belayer. Welcome to the tree!
  21. Great pic!
  22. I havent seen anything from Pope since the opening statement. I would like too!
  23. Your clearly not standing in the right place if the climber "rockets" into you. And I would agree Heresy is a good example of a good use of a clip. PS: the new guide is calling Heresy 11.c/d
  24. I agree with you Off White. But maybe pope should have thought about that before he sprayed his personal commentary all over this site. This thread should have started in spray. Because, even though the original post was written well, it is hugely spray. Can you move it to spray?
  25. How about soloing the eye? Great little warm up.
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