I'm not sure if I quoted the quote correctly or not but whatever. I'm implying that people seem to keep the climber tight and the rope at its shortest which on Heresy means standing basically directly under the bolt. Even if you aren't under the bolt, most belayers, if they have the rope super tight (which they shouldn't but do) get pulled off their feet and swing directly underneath the bolt where they meet the falling climber who is swinging in from the right. The ground there is not exactly level and I (250lbs.) get pulled off my feet if my partner (160lbs.) falls off. I have not stood directly under the bolt and I'm also not even belaying in the future, I'm spotting. Where do you propose the belayer should stand if you were going to keep the climber tight? It seems like until they get to the first bolt, there is no point in belaying them anyways. They're feet are only like 6' off the ground at that point anyways. Again, that's what the entourage* is for. Especially when it's now 11c/d which I'll gladly accept cause it feels that hard for me.
I for surly think it is at least 11.c, I have stated that openly from the first time I sent it 3 years ago.
As for holding the rope tight??? I stand under the rock almost, under the bolt, but near the rock itself. If you fall without a rope and land on your back, your screwed and may end up going to the hospital. If you fall with a rope attached to you. Then depending where you are on the rail. You stand a chance in only your feet hitting as you swing. I personally would rather have a chance than not. I have lead it both ways, with and without a stick clip. Would rather use one if it around. Either way I love that bolted boulder problem.