kevbone

I am going to try to get ahold of the person who bolted the original pic on this thread and ask them WASSSUP!

I wish, more like, time to get home and help change diapers.

Just received an email stating they are sending us all home at 2: pm due to the “storm”. What storm? I did here on the radio about high winds, but they are not here yet. Don’t get me wrong, 2 pm comes along and bye bye.

Air guitar, nice 5.8

Speaking of REI. I was working there about 5 years ago. This guy in a black leather jacket showed up. He stated he wanted to climb Mt. Hood. I started talking with the guy to find out he just moved to Ptown from somewhere in the Midwest. His first real views of any real mountains were the cascades and Mt Hood, he stated he just wanted to know about it and rent crampons and Ice axe. I tried to tell him to get into a guided service or something. Gave him the Mazama pamphlet and all. He stated “it will be easy; don’t I just follow the line of other climbers”? I still tried to talk him out of going by himself, due to he had only seen snow a few times. This guy looked like he just got off his hog and got done drinking beer. Either way, I could not stop him. He rented crampons and axe. 3 days later he strolled up to me and returned the equipment and said it was easy and he got to the summit by following the crowd. I never got the impression he was lying. Crazy thing people do. Sometimes courage is all you need……and an REI membership. Ha, ha.

When do you have time to write all that? Do you work? I am certainly not the masta route seta, but have put up about 20 climbs or so. I think Bill had a good point. This place I was talking about has no guide and because some of it is bolted, and gaining popularity with sporto’s. Complaints have come in saying “I got up towards the top and there was not bolts”. I let that person know there is great gear in front of you. He reply was “I see that. But could not see it from the ground” and because of no guide, how would he know. This person ended up running it out and freaking themselves out pretty good. Of course no bolts will ever go in on that route. That would be blatantly bolting a crack, which is obvious as you climb it. I do think word is out to bring you rack to this crag. Most the climbs are mixed.

here is the peak you want to climb (more of a walk up). Vesper Peak! Look it up. Great views. You can walk to the top with ease.

Tell that to Mark Knopfler, and he will kick your ass. Dick!

No shit, nobody nominated Beacon. Its the best climbing in Oregon, and its on Washington.

Yes, I say flash because they wanted gear beta, i told them what piece and where, but the missed it. There for it was a flash not onsight. And yes bill all that is correct.

Only if you make it one.

To answer your question. If you did not clip the bolt or place the yellow alien, you would risk going on the big ride and mostly hitting a huge ledge. It would be much bolder to run it out. I decided to place the bolt. The rest of the climb is bolted and it seemed silly to leave it with this one piece, which isnt bomber and off to the side. Matter of fact before the bolt went in I watch folks flash it and miss the piece altogether. I decided to retro my own route. I have retroed 4 of my own routes.

Offy, that is about the funniest thing you have said. bravo!

Is that what you call it?

Well....is this a bolted crack? I put my self out there to be slammed upon by CC.comer and no takers?

Dick amazing punk, SShhh

Ok. I put a route up that is 80 feet long and not a beginner leader route. It originally had 7 bolts with one piece of gear. Well the one piece of gear was off to the side by about 3 to 4 feet and not that good of a piece at that. That was the crux was reaching over there to place this kind of shitty yellow Alien, then long sling. I ended up placing a bolt on the route straight in line with the rest of the route. I retroed my own route, making it a better route, if you ask me. Is this considered bolting a crack?

Flake off and a few other at Spring mtn. Blantanly bolted cracks.

hahaha...ya when you fall 2 feet above your gear dunno if id call that a fall...what your pro's at your knee.. I would say, if you fall, you fall. If you give the fall a number before you would call it a fall, then your ego has become to large for your head.

Holy shit, I just commented on RC.com (I never actually do work) about the same thing. I had a conversation with Kevin (developer) about this 6 inch crack he bolted. Its in the first big wide area you come to. He said “what bolted crack” I then lead it on gear. Also Phopes Direct, way down towards the end. 10.d. is also bolted crack. I love climbing there because its fun. Just leave you rack and ethics in the car. Oh yeah, my partner and I climbed Flack Off entirely on gear, if you stay off the the right in the beginning and use long slings the rope drag ant that bad. What a joke. It was much more exciting on gear, thats for sure.

Another thing, I will NEVER buy another Beal rope. I have purchased two (thinking I would give the company the benefit of the doubt, after the first one unraveled) in the last 2 years. I have had no luck with them holding up. Mammut rules.

But why is that? Because the manufatures want them to, to get there curiosity up about "how long it will last, how many falls etc....." Then they get to turn around and sell more ropes.

mtnfreak, I couldn’t give a shit if its 2000 feet of the deck. There appears to have sufficient gear in from of your face for a bomber anchor. In this pic, these bolts are ridiculous and not needed. When? Doesn’t matter when the FA was. Bolting crack has NEVER been the norm, no matter what the time period was. I see nothing to justify these bolts, other than being a moron.

I suppose he could even be more careful and place a green Camelot even lower so he would not fall over when putting his harness on. What a joke.