kevbone

hahaha...ya when you fall 2 feet above your gear dunno if id call that a fall...what your pro's at your knee.. I would say, if you fall, you fall. If you give the fall a number before you would call it a fall, then your ego has become to large for your head.

Holy shit, I just commented on RC.com (I never actually do work) about the same thing. I had a conversation with Kevin (developer) about this 6 inch crack he bolted. Its in the first big wide area you come to. He said “what bolted crack” I then lead it on gear. Also Phopes Direct, way down towards the end. 10.d. is also bolted crack. I love climbing there because its fun. Just leave you rack and ethics in the car. Oh yeah, my partner and I climbed Flack Off entirely on gear, if you stay off the the right in the beginning and use long slings the rope drag ant that bad. What a joke. It was much more exciting on gear, thats for sure.

Another thing, I will NEVER buy another Beal rope. I have purchased two (thinking I would give the company the benefit of the doubt, after the first one unraveled) in the last 2 years. I have had no luck with them holding up. Mammut rules.

But why is that? Because the manufatures want them to, to get there curiosity up about "how long it will last, how many falls etc....." Then they get to turn around and sell more ropes.

mtnfreak, I couldn’t give a shit if its 2000 feet of the deck. There appears to have sufficient gear in from of your face for a bomber anchor. In this pic, these bolts are ridiculous and not needed. When? Doesn’t matter when the FA was. Bolting crack has NEVER been the norm, no matter what the time period was. I see nothing to justify these bolts, other than being a moron.

I suppose he could even be more careful and place a green Camelot even lower so he would not fall over when putting his harness on. What a joke.

Moderators, please show this gentleman to the door. This is a serious thread looking for serious discussion.

Let me guess, wankers (just sporto's)walk up to it and lead it all on bolts. Has Layton Kor received ten lashes with a wet noodle with this?

That would be nice. Lets ask Pope.

Good, the world will finally see what miscreants we really are. Hello world!!!

Holy crap. That makes me want to puke..... Where is that? Chop.. chop.

I too have heard about the “shelf life” theory. Gravity will eventually destroy everything. Why would it be different with ropes? A well cared for rope will last forever, although I too go on the conservative side, buying a new rope every spring.

I have seen some bolts I question. Usually one bolt per route, here or there. But this is frickin retarted. Who ever did this needs a lesson in proper ethics.

Are they stating the rope "heals itself", thats rad. That means I can go get my first rope I bought over 10 years ago and take some screamers on it.

Is there gear there?

So, I have been under the impression that rope manufactures put the rope life (how many falls etc……) on the rope so they are not liable and sell more ropes. I have found that ropes, if properly cared for, will last way longer than one or two seasons, or more than the manufactures recommendation. For example: I have this Mammut 10.5 60 m. This rope has at least 30 to 40 5 to 15 foot falls, maybe 2 or 3 falls past 15 feet. I have used it to jug a couple of times. I would still use this rope to lead on. Ropes last forever……

Under the bandstands..... by I Seymore buts. Chineese population.......by Me screwem young.

1981 huh! I was 8 years old!

I told you Dechristo

But you are!

eiger sanction! Is there any other?

What the hell is this?

Ask Steven Segal! He knows all about ”the arts”, or the farts.

They are usually the same person. I have never bolted a climb that I was not the FA on.