sweatinoutliquor

Hey Jens, I don't remember checking on the difficulty of the that section when we rapped by it a few months ago. I do think I remember it being quite vertical, and possibly even slightly overhanging? in a few spots. If you are planning on downclimbing that, rather than bringing a rope. I would say just skip it and climb the gendarme. I dunno, even if it is 5.7, wouldn't it be harder to downclimb that then upclimb the gendarme? Is that your intention?

that was "you're gonna die, we're all gonna die" followed by a cackle. hard to argue with.... That is the best thing I have heard in a while! Just what you need to hear when your already a bit on edge cause you've been exposed for a few hours!

Hey, this thread is sweet! Nice TR Oleg et al! That shot of Pete on your favorite pitch and the one of Ingalls lake are super awesome (sorry winter, but you gotta admit it's a cool shot!). Is it me, or does that mountain rock? I can't wait to try some snow or icy routes in that area come snowtime. Thanks for sharing!

Maybe over Sandy... Wy'east doesn't seem to fit unless letsroll is refering to the original name of the mountain. Punching through something between the summit and queens chair all I could think of would be the Elliot headwall, and I can imagine that being a relativly unplesant feeling for sure.

Hey TG, that thread is awesome! It's a great discussion about stuff that has kept me up at night before... I will be the first to admit that my acceptable risk level hasn't brought me into situations that sound as "spicy" as yours, but despite this I think most people who push their limits as climbers will at some point be faced with situations that push their acceptable risk limits. Anyway, thanks again for sharing! and thanks for the

I know this trip went down a week or so ago, but if you got any pics dude, I would be stoked to see them. I am sure others as well. Not that I would ever do it, but I think it's pretty gnarly that you went up here this time of year. Okay, time for the afternoon

Awesome! You guys

Great job TLG. Glad you made it without turning into an icecube! Climbing down and then back up? Is this showing off or something? Shoulda told the group you followed up (the second time) that you were practicing drafting.

Okay, great input folks! I will try some stuff on and maybe try to take it up to the hill before I buy it. Jkeller, believe it or not, I do tele ski as well, but I guess I need to face reality... I have been skiing for 20 years now, 4 of which includes tele, and I still can't do nearly the same crap with my tele skis. I just broke my tele boots as well, so right now I am looking at a massive ski boot related financial loss. I figured I would start with the alpine stuff first and then get the tele squared away.

Okay, my alpine boots are getting thrashed, and I'm thinking about replacing them with AT boots (I'm sick of carrying skies and boots on the pack, rediculas weight). I was wondering if y'all can help me out with this stuff. What's the gig with these boots? Are they just lighter? Are they designed so that you can climb in them? Can I use them in replacement of regular alpine boots (like cruising Bachlor crud all day)? What boots are good? I was thinking about Garmont G-rides, but am way to underinformed to make a good descision here. And while we are at it, how about bindings with releasing heels?

When Chris and I went earlier in the year this was a bit interesting, even with snow. I remember climbing over one chossy bit, and then when we were about 100m from the actual high camp we just called it quits and camped where we were (still fantastic). At that point we were both pretty tired from the approach and the idea of pulling on harness and rope for that silly 100m seemed like a bit much. The next morning we woke up and protected a traverse (on the NE side) under some of that sketchy stuff with a picket or two before downclimbing onto the glacier. I don't know if I would have been stoked about doing it without protection, especially if what I was walking on was steep choss, rather than good snow. I bet you still had a good outing though... Wildflowers up there?

Hey Fuggedaboudit, how was the arresting portion of this rescue? No prob cause you had dialed it in the day before? I am guessing that you were slightly downhill of snowball? I bet you both were pretty stoked about that training day before you went up there, even if you already had that stuff down smooth.

AWESOME JOB TO ALL INVOLVED PARTIES! Glad to hear that you guys walked away from this one with a great lesson for both yourself and lot's of others in that area. Good writeup Snowball!

Damn, you guys are fast! How much ground is that covered do you suppose? 12 hiking miles +2500 vert of ridge climbing? More? Regardless, good job! Can't wait to see pics!

Hey, cool climb and pictures! Looks like it was an adventure! Those tarns look cool

Yeah, I have to admit, I almost wanted to bail on the whole trip when I saw that the alleged "Chunkey" chips ahoy had some type of open rigid plastic shell, rather than the sleeve that I expected. Last time I try to switch gear right before a trip without testing it out first.

Hey Sobo, can I also recommend the Oneota gorge (in the columbia river george, close to Multipersonnomah falls), which is one of my favorie little waterfall excursions... You hike over a logjam, and then up through a slot gorge (maybe 15 feet wide, 50 feet high?). At a couple of points you are actually wading through knee or waist deep cold water cause the gorge constricts. At the end there is a 40ish foot fall that drops into a really secluded pool. The logjam and lack of obvious features keeps the crowds away. Total hike is no more than 1/4 to 1/2 of a mile.

That doesn't suck very much.

Great job Oleg et al. Looks like an adventure!

F'in awesome guys. Great read. Sick photos. Best TR I have read in a while.

Ummm... Yeah. I don't really know how to reply to this one. 1st, yeah, that's sick. 2nd, yup that's crazy. 3rd, ahhh... "tool barely held" yeah... Did you see that movie Vertical Limit? Was it like that sort of? Did you remember that your cans of nitro explode if they get into the sun? Glad to hear that you had fun, and are stoked to do more of this kind of climbing (hopefully in December?). Can't wait to see pics (of your balls).

Wow, this is sad! Any updates on this accident? My thoughts to her and her family.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that nothing on Ingalls went cause of an unexpected and quite nasty thunderstorm system that rolled through the area then next morning.

Climb: Mount Stuart-North Ridge Date of Climb: 7/21/2005 Trip Report: Last week my buddy Jazon (sparverius) and I made the 7+ hour drive from Corvallis up to Stuart with the idea of spending a few days in the area (N. Ridge of Stewie and a couple of routes on Ingalls). Got started at a reasonable time on Thursday, and camped at Stuart Pass. Ingalls lake is sick! We got moving around 3:30 and were confused and wandering aimlessly by 3:35. Crossing the glacier was a bit interesting, seeing how we were both sporting clip on crampons over tennis shoes. The snow on the glacier is really quite hard, and I would think that if you go with a sharpened stick you must have some kind of deathwish. At one point my crampon just fell off and it was a pain in the neck trying to get it back on, balanced on the other one (which was pinching like hell!). Anyway, we scored some water and got into the entrance gully without major incident. Once on the ridge the climbing was spectacular! We simulclimbed pretty much everything and got off route only a couple of times (evidenced by lot's of lichen). Overall it was really obvious where to go, and before we knew it we were climbing the pitches that I had read so much about (great white slab, cool hand traverse, etc.). We got passed by another party about halfway up that was moving much quicker than us and protecting about half as often. They were shreading the gendarme by the time we even got near the base of it. We choose to take the non-gendarme varation for a couple of reasons, most of which were bad excuses but some of which were valid. This was probably a bad descision (in retrospect) cause the escape gully was a pile of crap. It was passable, but still quite wet, and there were a couple of friction slab moves with hands on ice, wet and dirty feet on rock, etc. If you go for this route, plan to climb the gendarme. I'm about 87% sure that it's way better, and it seems like it's pretty doable. Anyway, after another couple hours of scrambling in the loose and wet we were on the summit. We went down the cascadian shitpile and made it back to the tent by around midnight. Overall an awesome route sandwiched between some less than favorable scree. Thanks Jazon for getting this thing off the ground! I look forward to our next adventure! Gear Notes: Water! We carried at least 2 liters for the ridge alone and were still way low. I think I only took 2 pisses all day. Approach Notes: Found running water 2/3 of the way down the cascadian.

Dude, great photos! Sounds (and looks) like you had a good time down there, mosquitos aside.