sweatinoutliquor

Well done Tyree! Good report and photos! Looks like a hell of a setting up there!

I did almost the exact same things a in fall of 2003... Wish I had known that it was doable in a day cause I would have left a few items out of the pack (such as bivy stuff). I was thrashed by the end though... Overall I think I was somewhere around 13 hours. The last 10 miles or so killed me! Tell me that you at least suffered a bit on that last uphill Oleg!

Ummm... Are you really attached to this thing? I have tried to clean them and they always end up tasting like friggan bleach for the rest of their lives. Maybe clean the dirty one with bleach or whatever else, but retire it as a whiskey bladder (wont taste the bleach then!) and get a newer, better one for not that much money!

Good call dude, I have one of these and I really like it. It wouldn't hurt to have a couple of screws... I would recommend something with an easy turn handle (like Black Diamond Turbo express, Petzl lasersonic or the Omega pacific screw with the knob) at 22cm in length. Especially if you are going to be setting up rescue practice anchors, there really isn't much that is more bomber than an ice screw placed in solid ice. Maybe just one each to start (they are pricy, but sometimes you can score deals on mgear.com etc.). The longer lengths are generally safer and in solid glacier ice (if you find any) they work awesome for rescue practice! Have fun and be safe out there!

Hey Guys! Sounds like you had a good time up there! Thanks for the TR. How about a photo or two? I would love to see what the region looks like and right now, seeing how it's a bit of a drive from Corlyvallis.

I am so glad you guys are okay. Sometimes these cascade chosspiles just choose to smite... Glad you guys dodged it this time, and I'm super glad your wife is getting out of the hospital today ! Thanks to SAR for everything! Glad this one has a happy ending! Hope this is a heads up to lots of people to keep eyes peeled for chossfall. Sounds like Jefferson was throwing crap at a party the other day as well...

Friggan Awesome you guys!!! Way to get up there at this time of the year! Those photos are awesome! Something about that mountain just producing great photos! Anyway, congrats, and one heck of a big to ya both!

Hey you guys, great job out there! Great pics Nolse, thanks for posting! I gotta get up to that mountain!

Ha! Thanks for posting those Chris... I tried a few times and just got the link... Oh well!

Hey nice job!

Sorry so big, but it confirms relevance to this topic.

I didn't think so... They had a later start than you guys, but I thought I would ask anyway!

Probably the right descision. Though if you were in JT you should go to Mexico. Everyone likes Mexico. Probably wouldn't get nuked there for a bit.

Nice going dude, we were scoping out North on Sunday thinking that it would have been a great day to be up there! Was there any fresh snow from Saturday's stormin? Pics would be delightful!

My girlfriend and I ran into a twosome heading up that way on Sunday, was that you? We were heading out early after a hike up to camp lake. Smallish dog with us named Bella that ran up to you? Anyway, sounds like a long day, glad to hear that it went okay! Pics pics pics!?

Ah ha! I see. Cool! I will have to try that... I am not sure how it will work for me, the harness I use has those "easy clip" solid plastic (highly breakable) gear loops on my harness... I already popped one off by stepping on an aider. Anyway, I will give it a try and see how it goes. Thanks fern!

Yeah, I think that is the same idea that OlympicMtnBoy was going for? Thanks for the feedback though. Pretty easy to clean and get them back into that position?

Hell yeah dude, that's pretty cool! Way better than the books, which have written directions and a photo of what the knot looks like when completed!

Probably hard to put them back there (if that is what you are saying) if you are cleaning them though.

I'm not exactly sure what you are saying here, but I think you might be going for horizontally somewhere behind your neck, but on the outside of the pack? That's a pretty sweet idea... I will have to check my pack and see if I can get them there somehow. Thanks!

Glad to head that recovery is going, though I am sure not as quick as you would like! I think despite some of the critical nature of folks on this site, lots of people were wishing you guys the best that weekend.

2. Plan on at least 2 hours, maybe more depending on what kind of driver you are (probably more like 3?) to get from Mowich lake to Paradise. It took us way longer than expected on my last trip (didn't help that we tried a shortcut that f*ed us right in the neck).

Thanks for all the valuable feedback all. I thought about a hammer (I don't own one) and figured that it may be counterproductive to my original intentions. I would like to try more serious aid climbing someday, but for now I am still super stoked about free climbing stuff, and for that, I don't think I would have a hammer with me for a short stretch of aid climbing (half pitch or so). I guess it wouldn't hurt to have one on the scene for practice if I can't get half of my peices out! Fenderfour... You mention that hooks are still considered clean aid, but that they can damage the rock... I had thought about bringing them, but again, don't want to piss anybody off. Maybe I will bring them just to give-em a try. I figure that the rock in the gorge is burley enough to take a hook here and there, and if it looks like I'm doing any harm I will stop. Hey Ireneo, any ideas of a good spot in the menagerie? All I am familar with is the rooster, chicken, hen area... Other suggestions? This is half of why I am interested in it! Thanks again everyone!

Thanks a bunch for the feedback forrest_m. For the record, I have no intention of bringing a hammer or pitons, etc. Good point on the line... I would much rather do this in an area without anybody waiting in line, so if you see somebody gumbying up Spiderman with aiders or something, it isn't me! I also planned on doing it with a toprope backup, figure I don't want to take one of the headfirst wipeouts that are so popular when an aid peice pulls on my first day. Anybody else out there gonna be pissed if you see a dude clean aiding something relativly easy in the gorge?

Yes, that jingle jangle is what I hate most. It's like an accident waiting to happen when they all descide to get crossed in front of you, then they scrape the snow surface if you posthole and finally you're like "crap!" as you launch yourself face first into a tree. Anyway, I like the clip it to your harness and then run it through your pack idea . I will have to try that. Iain, thanks for pointing out that maybe I just need to mess around more rather than to the newbie forum for help. As for placing them sideways as deadman, yes, this does work quite well. I have found this style of placement to be useful if you can't get the whole picket in vertically because maybe you only have 12 inches of snow ontop of frozen scree... Digging those little T trenches goes pretty quick unless the snow is super hard (and if it is you should be placing them vertically anyway!). Just make sure that you have a long enough runner to distrubute the force in the right direction, without any upward pull on the picket. Okay, thanks everyone for your insight... Any other ideas would be useful. Last time I was on the snow I was thinking about making a quiver or something, and carrying a bow to shoot them into the snow... At least it would be good for a few funny looks.