sweatinoutliquor

Not sure if you saw this... http://www.backcountrygear.com/catalog/climbdetail.cfm/GRI115 $135 new... Not sure if that is a deal or not.

Meaning that I wouldn't plan for the shit to go down, ie. bring extra shitty screws. I hate bailing on climbs cause usually that means I got myself into a dangerous situation that I/we are unable to handle. I consider punishment for that type of situation the sacrafice of nice gear to the climbing gods/better climbers than me! I'm happy not pushing my limits like that anyway. So yeah, to answer your question, I don't bring extra bailing stuff (besides webbing).

"You want your ski... Then go get it..." still makes me laugh.

Here's a situation... How about you just saw a big nasty 'lanche come down a gully next to you, and you realize your's could be next! Or your buddy get's knocked in the head with a rocky rock and it's time to leave in a hurry! Of course, in that situation I'm not giving much of a shit if I'm leaving behind TI or my nice new turbo's.

Ummm... Right, I guess this isn't the dream interpretation forum... Wait, anybody want to buy the rights to my dream? 20 bucks or 10 ice screws? OBO.

TI ones would be good to back up a v thread anchor. I wouldn't rap off just one I don't think. Unless it was a serious "we got's to get the hell outta here" situation. Even then I would send the heavy one and back up the first screw with a second one and watch how the ti one handles. I had a dream last night about a someones rap anchor coming off and them falling. Then in a panic I went down to see if they were okay and they were at the bottom sleeping peacefully in a sleeping bag.

Yeah, the big wigs at OSU wanted to impress the grant givers by opening it for 6 hours a day, and 4 on the weekend. Jesus they spend a shiton of cash on that wall, and now they wont even pay to staff it correctly (all day)? I also love it when a group rents it out, and you can't climb there that day. Nothing like a waitlist to climb indoors... No gripe with any of the staff there though, they all

That movie sucked. The clip where the dude with little hands eats the giant nature valley bar!? I mean, that was totally shameless. What a load of crap. At least I got the free ticket to meadows. I had just finished watching last year's matchstick movie yearbook too. There was a cool avy clip though.

Looks at the bottom of this post for some cool photos of the spur (from last weekend I believe). Looks pretty good I suppose.

Nice! Great report and photos! Congrats to Larry for kicking ass at 82!

Okay, thanks folks. Pointy things are a pain to travel with anyway! Maybe I'll just go for a hike or something, and bring the shoes in the event that I find something to play on. Thanks again!

Hey Everyone, I got to make a trip to Salt Lake City from November 6-11 for a conference, and I was wondering if there is any easily accessable solo climbing oppertunities there (i've never been). I guess you can take a shuttle up to little cottonwood canyon, but I was thinking that none of the ice would be in yet. I had hoped to be skiing when I was there, but I hear it's been really warm. Anyway, if you have any info about easy stuff that would be great. Also, if you can tell me if it would be better to bring crampons and toolz, or climbing shoes I would appreciate it. Thanks!

For the price I would only expect to find titanium ones. Even used ones are probably more than that. Not that the titanium ones are bad, but they dull faster. I did managed to find omega screws (with the knobs) as cosmetic seconds for 20 bucks each once (on mgear.com, none now, just looked). Here are some cheap ti ones... link

I am interested, but would like to see a photo of the stuff first! Any chance you could shoot a digital and post it, or pm me with a bit more info? Thanks FFCS! ~SOL

I dunno if I would say defenseless... My friend hit one on his roadbike and came out of that engagement much worse than the elk. I guess at least he got a little of him cause there was fur in his front brakes... My friend didn't even know what happened. Was coming down a hill and then woke up laying on his back. Luckily a car saw it and stopped to help him out. No sign of the scheming quadruped.

Good work folks! Those pics look spicy! Thanks for sharing! Way to git 'er done!

While I have never met Carl, I'm very sorry to hear this... My thoughts going out to him and his family, as well as everyone here who knew him and will miss him.

Hey Folks... Quarks for 200 bucks right now at ems.com, as well as some other gear and stuff on sale.

Thanks for the info guys. I assumed it was something like this cause of where the break occured. I still haven't taken a leader fall with crampons and toolz and the thought scares me pretty bad... What's that, like 18 sharp points to stick yourself with? We need an ejection button that pops crampons and leashes off when you fall. Or crampons that release like ski bindings! I know that doesn't make much sense. Anyway, thanks for sharing! Again, I hope for a speedy recovery!

May I ask what happened? Just a slip? Did someone deck? Curious cause I'm thinking of going seracing this weekend (my first time!) and I don't want to, ya know, have a repeat performance. Thanks folks, and hopefully there is a speedy recovery!

I think there are some good points on both sides here (as in most bolting discussions). I agree with R_M, that it's unfortunate that these things are not discussed openly before being put in. I know that discussions would be rabid on both sides, but still, it's scary that anybody with the will and a drill can permantly alter routes for future generations. And how come you don't see more of those camo hangers out there? Are they more expensive? Just harder to find and clip? Does the color eventually come off? I dunno, that one seems like a no brainer to me. What makes me wonder is why there is still active sport route development that close to smith. I mean, doesn't that place have, like a bizillion 5.11 sport routes? I would think that those would be sufficient to keep most climbers happy for years! And sheet, if you really feel the need to get away from the crowds a bit, buy some cams and go get wild! Anyway, just my opinions. I can't climb 5.11 anyway!

Thanks for the feedback everyone... Hey Chris, are those wild country's a bit on the heavy side? I just saw those after I got the two wired ones. They look cool! MisterE: Tricams I agree. Thanks everyone, sounds like the cables are coming off! Even with the wires the things are kinda floppy. Lately I have been realizing that I only really place passive pro when I have a good resting stance, and if I have that, then I can afford to fiddle around with a non-wired hex (especially if it get's me a rad placement). Otherwise it's plug a cam and keep flailing. I'll certianly look into this stiffer cordage as well. Thanks everyone!

Hey Folks... What's the deal with wired hexes?? I bought a couple of the largish sized black diamond ones (#7 #9), and haven't placed them yet. I have played around with them a bit, trying out the different ways you can place them, but it seems to me like the little wire pretty much limits you to two different placements (regular, like a chock, and sideways, like a sideways chock). Did I just (basically) buy a couple of large chocks? Am I just not being creative enough? I really like the non-wire hexes I have played with cause you can place them in a way that causes them to cam a bit when they get loaded, and use more like 4 different placemetns, than just 2. Finally, if I decide that I am silly for buying large wired hexes, do you think there would be anything wrong with clipping the wire off and putting some slings on them instead?

Nice photos! Looks totally amazing! !