Couloir

Or...a bear?

I think I'm done with it for a few years. Winter maybe, but not now. Like Ivan said, the N side has so much more shizzle to offer. Yeah, that was my other question. I was planning on camping around the base of Snowdome (and do a carryover) and didn't know if getting to that point it made more sense to cross in the middle of the Eliot or to cross lower on the Eliot, along the ~Timberline Trail and come straight up around Lang Crag. I'll decide when we get there. Thanks

Ahhh..a nice break from the domestic chaos! How's the schrund? Any other cravasses opening up yet? I'm probably doing it 7/9 and would love to go as light as possible (ie no glacier gear).

It sure was sweet on Saturday... Nice! Were there any issues crossing over the crevasse at the base, or could you get around it? That seems to be the only obstacle that I can see.

I've always thought the slope on climbers right of the glacier would be a good descent too.

There aren't many things you can't do with THAT!

Leave it to the fucking free market to create rich assholes like this. If he would have just paid higher taxes the government could have spent part of the $44 billion in a much better, more efficient way. This is an outrage!

I believe this to be true as well. KURT!!!!! Get well baby!

Ass-raping aside, I like the second one.

That's more like it. We did a C2C from BF in 11 hours a couple of years ago. We took skis, but left them at LH because AG was horribly suncupped. I carried my skis out, but my buddies boarded for about 1000' below LH on shitty snow out of principle. I never liked principals. It's a hump. So just pay attention to the weather, and make friends on the way up.

Niiiiiiice!!!

Start another thread. This issue with Roger is too important for any drift (other than from this original TR). Great job Ty.

Excellent TR--good relevant details. Nice work! Yeah, I know what you mean about the North Ridge. I'm glad I didn't come down it.

Road sodas.

FJ Cruiser!!

I think you're right DB. Becky shows it as a variation to Nisqually Ice Cliff (pointing out Nisqually Cleaver as a landmark). Gauthier's book labels it as Nisqually Cleaver (Rte 5). Either way, you guys did it in perfect style Oleg.

Thanks Cluck!

I prefer BD for the Flicklock feature. I have put a lot of weight on them and they didn't collapse. And I have never had a pair bend or break. I even used mine once in a drunken sword fight and they performed delightfully.

I'm not sure what the threshold is (6mm?) but my Jumars hold better on thinner rope than my Tibloc.

A little more about them: http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Athletes.aspx?id=20 http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Athletes.aspx?id=12 Hope this turns out well.

MGB: You PM'd me, but I wasn't able to reply. Turn your PMs on! There are many that can answer this, but here goes. Hood gets climbed in late August all the time. BUT, it's an ugly and relatively unsafe climb. Lots of rockfall, and potentially bomber steep ice through the Chute (Pearly Gates--but they are anything but that in August--loose rock is more like it.). Definitely a hardman thing to do combining it with the H2C relay. So, if you go, bring a helmet, climb fast, and be VERY aware of what's happening above you. May need a second tool for the crux in the Chute. Depends on your comfort level. I've climbed it year round, and this is approaching about the worst time you could do it. That said, good luck. Have fun!

You tell who your avatar is there? God, if I can remember. I was under serious influence when I changed it last. I honestly don't remember who it is. But she is hot, for sure.

They should have linked directly to Spray for the real knowledge.