JosephH

Call it Wed. night then if that what works.

Bump, we could use 4-5 folks to really get it done fast...

Given this thread is in 'Newbies', and that fact the nothing about the physics of nylon has changed all that significantly in recent times, newbies rock climbing outdoors, particularly trad climbing, should stick with 10-10.5s and definitely nothing smaller than a 9.8 for a considerable period until they have established the experience and skills necessary to start making judgment calls around skinny ropes. In general, [significant] trad climbing on single ropes smaller than 9.8 is a lot like driving at 90mph in a nice car - you can't really perceive the potential for bad things happening so after awhile it's easy to forget bad things can and do happen. It's one thing making an educated decision on using a sub-9.8 single rope on a route-by-route basis trad climbing, but deciding that's your standard rope for all climbs - that's both mindless gambling and just plain stupid.

Jim said he'd like to try to do the move after work on Wed. or Thu., how about posting up your availability for either or both of those nights - I can do either one.

Will do Dave. I'm just hoping the rotting stacks of printed alpine scenes from some press aren't going - the movies are light...

I find just the symptoms of glaciers and thawing tundra by themselves to be compelling, but take the sun and volcanoes out of the equation and what's left really is us... "CO2 from active volcanoes is 1/150th of anthropogenic emissions" "Changes In The Sun Are Not Causing Global Warming, New Study Shows" "Apparent Problem With Global Warming Climate Models Resolved" "Scientists Agree Human-induced Global Warming Is Real, Survey Says"

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/05/090512153335.htm ScienceDaily (May 15, 2009) — There has been sharp disagreement in recent years about how much, or even whether, winter snowpack has declined in the Cascade Mountains of Washington and Oregon during the last half-century. But new research leaves little doubt that a warmer climate has a significant effect on the snowpack, as measured by water content on April 1, even if other factors keep year-to-year measurements close to normal for a period of years. Water content can vary greatly depending on temperature and other conditions at the time of snowfall. Typically an inch of snow at temperatures near freezing will contain significantly more water than an inch of snow a colder temperatures. "All things being equal, if you make it 1 degree Celsius warmer, then 20 percent of the snowpack goes away for the central Puget Sound basin, the area we looked at," said Joseph Casola, a University of Washington doctoral student in atmospheric sciences. ...

Jim has found a new abode in a Tabor Hill basement apartment - tentatively thinking about a Sunday 5/24 move date, but if enough folks could get together after work on, say Thursday 5/21, we wouldn't have to burn up a weekend day doing this. Jim said he's attempting to downsize some - we'll see, but at least he's trying...

Slings on horns and chickenheads - yep, that's what this is for (placed right/left directionally such that any pull on the sling tightens the slipknot around the horn):

Not sure how we ever survived without books and 'certified' guides though I'm sure a strong dose of common sense and thinking things through at every anchor played a large role in it...

Another case where Obama and his pragmatism were destined to disappoint. I keep pointing out that he came up baely skirting Chicago politics and there is no way to survive that doing anything radical or standing on too many principles. You probably wouldn't want to know what still passes for 'police interrogation' in Chicago when the chips are down. So far he's been pretty predictable relative to making no sudden moves on the environment, indian affairs, healthcare, and finance reform, but even I have to admit Obama isn't even meeting my low expectations on the Bush legacy front. This is why it's best not to elect traitors and felons to high office in the first place - it's culturally hard to undo their actions. Every time we as a nation fail to fully prosecute wrong doing in high office we open the door to Constitution-bending shennanigans. Obama's politically self-preserving stance on prosecuting Bush administration officials is realistic, but deplorable with serious consequences for our nation.

Placing and cleaning gear is one of the more interesting parts of roped free and aid soloing - you have to eat your own dogfood as it were. Over time it definitely changed how I set pro relatiive to being kinder on the second (me).

Oh, I'd be happy to stay off all Ozone threads if Kevin would chill on the bird bitching - just illustrating the point.

I'd say more like when another kid fills in the Hamburglar's pants with a color you don't like on your page of the Happy Meal Coloring Book while you were off getting more fries...

Next thing you know the Ozone Peregrines will be shitting on it.

The FA of LW was ground up - no pre-flight inspection, cleaning, hanging or other mechanics - and more the sort of route folks avoid than climb.

When the grid lights up and everyone is enjoying the show, does it really matter who screwed in the bulbs?

Route setting is obviously at the root of this sort of thing...

Took me a minute, that's a lovely little dance, but the weather is better in boulder right now...

Broughtons doesn't close...

That's my point, all the routes out there put up pre-2001 are likely 'uncharted territory' by now.

Not at all, just commenting a lot of the routes at both places went up around the same time, by many of the same people, and if the bolts and some fixed pins are in as bad a shape there as they were at Beacon then folks might want to think about pulling some maintenance on the place.

Cool, i know a few people who claim to care, but not enough to actually step up or do what might be required to actually have a shot a lifting the closure. In general, a decade of clueless fuckups and infantile posturing and attitudes relative to managing the place has left me not really caring much what those folks think... so no offense taken. P.S. oh, and nothing I've done out there has ever been random...

Ivan, the comments above weren't so much about the routes you guys did so much as a general comment about the likely state of Broughton fixed pro given what was found at Beacon. Those folks who really care about the place might want to consider a random survey sometime and check a few pins and bolts and see what you find. Looks like you've been getting in all sorts of good training for the Valley - keep it up!

Just a note that it's worth remembering many knifeblades around here (as opposed to bugaboos), are too thin to withstand corrosion longer than about twenty to twenty five years even though they may look perfect from the outside. Fixed pro in all forms require maintenance and pins are no exception - I'm guessing by now all the pins at Broughtons could probably stand someone checking and either resetting or replacing the ones that are now loose or bad. Pretty much every pin you're likely to run across has been checked at Beacon and about one in four needed resetting, one in five needed replacing. Here's one of the knifeblades off of 'Fear of Flying' out at Beacon. All three pins on the route were bad, paper thin, and came out with the slightest imaginable funk - none would have held a fall. That said, it's also good to keep in mind that, on a percentage basis, pins way out performed bolts in useful longevity out at Beacon and that probably means there are a lot of lousy bolts as well if you were to pull and look at them (and odd as it may seem, a lot of bolts placed during the '90s at Beacon were in the worst shape of the lot).