JosephH

Link Cams are built as well as any such a design can be and with the best materials available. The design delivers unique advantages, but along with those advantages comes limitations due to the current state of material science. The linkage tabs (that the axles go through) are thin and frail and there is just no way to change that without simply producing an even heavier product. Bottom line is, at the moment you pull a Link Cam (or any other piece) off your rack, you are staring at the reality of the full potential and limitations of the piece - place it accordingly. With Link Cams that means that any placement that will exert leveraging] sideways forces on the linkages, or one where the cam lobes of a rotating cam will encounter obstacles, should be avoided at all cost. There's likely nothing wrong with this Link Cam or the rc.com LST one - they just ended up being used in placements that played to their limitations rather than their advantages. If you aren't prepared to deal with the limitations of any given design along with the advantages, then you probably shouldn't have it on your rack.

The study was a comprehensive study of many past studies on significant nutritional difference between organic and non-organically grown food. As a horticulturist I feel pretty comfortable saying a competent farmer should be able to produce crops with exceptional and comparative nutritional content by either means (and that shouldn't be news to anyone). However, nutrional content is the least interesting or important aspect of why one might favor one approach or the other and the study explicitly did not cover health impacts of pesticides, long-term soil trends, local / regional / global environmental costs. All-in-all the statement "organic food is no better [nutritionally]" is irrelevant. The statement that "non-organic, pesticide-laden food grown with unsustainable practicess is worse for us in myriad ways" would be more accurate in summing up what was out-of-scope in this study.

As far as I know, the right to keep established climbs and trails clean is set policy - the issue here is the means. Clearly any mechanical cleaning is no problem. The use of herbicides is entirely another matter as is which ones, how, and where they are applied. I got into computers as a horticulturist attempting to automate greenhouses - I know a bit about plants, insecticides, and herbicides and can understand the SW Resource Steward's concern about their use in the park. Herbicides are not all equal in their efficacy, impact, or longevity. The general issue of transparency is mainly a token of cooperation as there is not really anything that goes on out there the BRSP is unaware of - soloing, getting high, NW face camps, bolting, snow shoveling moss, etc - none of it is any news to the BRSP staff. The climbing and partying stuff they really don't care about unless it accidentally ends up in a situation they have to deal with. Anything that alters the rock or habitat is a different matter - they are professionals who live and work there and they do care about the place. All in all, spray swaths of the stuff and it also won't be a secret for long and it almost always comes down to them simply shaking their heads and going, 'you should have just come and talked with us about it." But that doesn't mean we can't approach them and say we've run into a situation where mechanical means won't be adequate and we'd like to go chemical. I've already done that with regards to coming up with a strategy to permanently eliminate the massive vines from the West face routes left of Jensen's Ridge. Those vines are massive and for some stretches embedded into the cracks and aren't going to come out easily or without a combination of cutting, chemicals, and chiseling. We didn't get to the cleaning last winter, but the BRSP response was let's get together with Lisa (the Resource Steward) and talk about it which hopefully we'll do this coming winter when I hope those vines can be dealt with. If we have problem spots/areas we think need to be dealt with there is no reason for not going up and simply talking with them about it being a real problem. Particularly in light of the loss of the lines left of Jensen's Ridge. EDIT: Note I've had to explicitly ask the last several years that the climbers' trail NOT be weed-wacked for four feet on either side because it attracts tourists down the trail like a magnet when that's been done. Personally, I find clear-cutting by weed-wacking to be pretty high impact even if it's a mechanical means; the point being the BRSP staff is completely sympathetic with the idea of keeping trails (and climbs) clean and clear.

I forgot about that batch on the left side of the first pitch of Blownout - that is always a drag when you pull a rope down through it. But I did the Corner and FFA/Dods as well with no oak, didn't even see any. Kevin - I've got absolutely nothing to do with it beyond wanting to reclaim the climbs on the other side of Jensens Ridge from those massive oak vines and then getting them out from under the closure; neither of which is going to happen without WSP and BRSP cooperation on both counts. As far as the rules around the oak, I'm just relaying the WSP Resource / Habitat Management rules around plant life in the park in general, poison oak included. Again, my only concern is having WSP cooperation on reclaiming those West face climbs and not having that face close each year. But let me get this straight, you don't really care about the rules of States of Oregon and Washington - except you make a living off of the State of Oregon enforcing state laws and rules against others while your wife is a lawyer who makes her living off of the State of Washington and its laws. Oh, and you're great friends with Bryan, who is an environmental lawyer for the Oregon DEQ enforcing those rules. You know, you sure run your mouth off about being a Beacon bad boy and ignoring state laws and rules for a guy that lives off lording them over others every day - true, you don't wear a uniform and badge, but doesn't that make you just another dick? Andrew, shut the fuck up and get a life. Jesus, you two are are a real online 69 of whine, and christ if you are still synchronizing your post counts.

So, where is all this problematic oak at that I'm missing?

Maybe I'm just missing it, but where is the oak a problem out at Beacon other than having taken over the fine routes on the west side of Jensens Ridge? Poison Oak is a native species and protected throughout the park's habitat as such. But we have arrangments to mechanically work on it with them relative to established trails and routes. Spraying would be another matter all together, though I suspect targeted applications to specific problem vines on routes could be negotiated.

Come and listen to a story about a man named Jed A poor mountaineer, barely kept his family fed, Then one day he was shootin up the Corner, And up through the ledge came a cloud of stinging rude. Wasps that is, black and gold, Texas mean. And the next thing you know got a rash of poison oak, Kinfolk said "Jed move away from there" Said "Belle Center Rd. is the place you ought to be" So they loaded up the truck and moved to O-zo-nee. Clifs, that is. Sport routes, climbing stars. Well now its time to say good by to Jed and all his kin. And they would like to thank you folks fer kindly droppin in. You're all invited back a gain to this locality To have a heapin helpin of their hospitality Hillybilly that is. Set a spell, Take your shoes off. Y'all come back now, y'hear?

Yeah, don't under-estimate the heat. I managed hydration badly on saturday. Rope-soloed YW and then attempted to do the same on FFA/Dods which was totally casual until I hit the tree when I wilted hard all in the span of a minute - dehydrated, cramping, and mildly faint. Had to badly aid the crux and thank god Ivan, Dave, Geoff, and Kyle were on Big Ledge and were kind enough to undo my rope from the anchor below as they rappelled so I didn't have to re-climb the damn thing to clean the pitch. Not too bright on my part, the only good news was the tree makes a pretty nice chair these days if you face to the west and just sit down.

Worth calling out this tidbit from VegasTradGuy's RC.com Outdoor Retailer report: Don’t forget that if you want to get rid of your old rope, no matter who made it, send it back to Sterling at their rope recycling program (Sterling Rope Company, Inc. C/O: Rope Redemption Program 26 Morin StreetBiddeford, ME 04005-4413).

Is that an OAP (Opdycke-Approved Prophecy)? Wouldn't put much stock in it if not and there's no mention at all of aliens...

Ha! No, I just figured I ought to put some cams up to back what I've been saying given Aric was nice enough to put test rig together. I sent him 7 of the 8 I had. I kept the one green/yellow as that's the first piece off the YW p1 anchor on Lost Warriors. Glad the MC Offsets are about to be available so I won't need it either.

I don't know if that will be the final way they do the color markings or not, and I agree the coloring on the Alien Hybrids is a nice approach. I've been testing a set of these for a couple of weeks now and I did end up racking them on a different color biners than the rest of my rack so I could tell the difference. They are essentially plug-compatible with the Hybrids and I'm definitely popping for a set or two of them given I sent all my Hybrids to Aric for his RC.com testing thread.

Now that I have a few spare moments... Biology dictates when the rock opens, my only involvement is in assisting with the monitoring given it's just one of many responsibilities of the WDFW biologist who has other pressing priorities such as EIS and impact research on wind farms out east. Beacon opens when it opens; the time I invest in monitoring sometimes contributes to early opens, but only in helping WDFW know it's time for them to come verify the fledges are up and flying competently. Four out of five early opens with other places to climb these days - no complaints, desperate or otherwise from me over it. Not lately, but it looks like a new generation has picked up that mantle quite well. Why yes, thank you. Please, you and anyone else is welcome to come up and show me how it's really done. Hey, I'd love nothing more than to see your progress on it. Consider it an open invitation, any time. Oh my god! Rejected by the 'crew' - lordy, now I really am losing sleep. My personal favorite - damn, I am blinded and shamed no less. I should be wandering the streets. True, I normally like to get paid for product endorsements, but this one I'll do for free given how much I like it - especially how it holds a 1-liter bladder for hot or long days:

kev, this where all my Beacon posts go, get used to it. Been that way for years now. There appear to be minimal loose rock issues this year and the SE Corner start area looks clean - on the other hand it is Beacon and you should always be careful and cognizant of issues of loose rock and rockfall everywhere out there. Like Kevin says above - it's risky business so take care.

One safety note - Last year rocks up to the size of footballs were coming down onto the area around the SE Corner start. They did so for the first two weeks after the open and were natural rockfalls from one of two suspected sites high on the wall below the SE Corner ridge. The area the rocks were landing was essentially the entire area around the SE Corner start from when you first come up to the start from the trail. I would strongly recommend folks not socialize or queue up in this area until we know what the situation is this year. Consider hanging out back around by Cruisin' or up by the first tunnel area instead. If you do need to be in the area of the SE Corner start for any length of time consider keeping one of the trees between you and the face. In general, try to be efficient in your SE Corner start and get through the first pitch in a timely fashion to be up and out of range.

Beacon opens at 8am tomorrow morning (Wednesday, July 22)

Fortunately, that masterpiece didn't require any 'routesetting' as it was already there - all it needed was a few points of protection so you guys could climb it.

And they inhabit every single climbable rock surface on earth to boot - next they'll want to nest on your gym.

They've fledged and will survive, but they've had the place to themselves for awhile and, just like us, are going to have to learn to share the realm.

Let me pick up the slack. Men don't 'routeset' except possibly while overcome by deep metrosexual crises when they can also be infected with boltsetting. These are consumptive vainglorious diseases typically affecting males in their late teens and often persisting until the victim reaches their early thirties when the rapid onset of infants, increased appetite, and the rapidly fading glory of youth sends them into remission. There is no vaccine or cure for route and boltsetting which have reached pandemic levels and retain a high recidivism rate for those surviving rehab and family obligations. Once infected the victim is a carrier for life and must be constantly pricked and vigil for signs of an outbreak. Symptoms include rabid betafoam, bankable acclaim, last harrahs, and cocked halos of communal beneficence. The only defense against this affliction is not sharing chalk, thoroughly disinfecting your hands after visiting a gym, and coughing into your sleeve while announcing route ratings.

And that would be Wednesday - 8am

Hopefully they'll beef up the axles compared to the Camalots. Those weak, rattly axle assemblies on the Camalots never sat well with me.

On a K through 12 basis, you really wouldn't want an outside auditor ranking cc.com's typical spray quotient or content quality. The game show "Are You Smarter Than a Fifth Grader?" leaps to mind (obviously a FOX Network production given their audience)...

Someone answered this a couple of years back but I'm getting senile and I also apparently no longer have those emails either. So what was the story on this rock again?

Bad bolts, half a bag of chalk dumped on half a 5.7 pitch, and fewer climbing days - all good no doubt, especially if you live somewhere else and don't climb. Edit: so you claim to be getting out, good for you, what a change - whining and climbing.