JosephH

No, unless you think Bill is trying to tell people how to climb as well. But if you insist that mentioning to folks that putting in rusting time bombs and badly placed bolts serves no one's interest is 'telling other what to do / how to climb' then so be it. But me personally, if I'm going to come upon a bolt, my preference is that it's a good one. So which is it out at Ozone, stainless or will your son be climbing on junk in in his early teens...?

The point of the thread was to let folks know that being shortsighted or cheap now is only going to create a mess for themselves or others ten years down the road when all the non-stainless bolts need to be replaced - not to provide an impulse control test for you and pink.

Edited. Well, that covered half of it.

Kevin, you did use all stainless at Ozone, right...?

Check out the power of the Internet - now you can hear a whine all the way from Colorado where it's 81 degrees with scattered clouds in Eldo today.

Cat - just now looking at this thread. My condolences for your loss. Didn't you also have some significant health issues of your own? How are you doing? I was just in LB to see my parents, will have to remember you're down that way now.

I moved an anchor today, it was with two year old, five piece, non-stainless 3/8" bolts which were already well on their way to corroding. If you must bolt something on the west side of the Cascades, then please pop for stainless so you're not just installing ten year timebombs - and also, please pay attention to holding the drill perpendicular to the rock.

Bill - that rig of Grossman's is the one I was thinking of...

Got me there. cc.love is it any wonder... One One is the loneliest number that you'll ever do Two can be as bad as one It's the loneliest number since the number one No is the saddest experience you'll ever know Yes, it's the saddest experience you'll ever know `Cause one is the loneliest number that you'll ever do One is the loneliest number, worse than two It's just no good anymore since he went away Now I spend my time just making rhymes of yesterday One is the loneliest, number one is the loneliest Number one is the loneliest number that you'll ever do One is the loneliest, one is the loneliest One is the loneliest number that you'll ever do It's just no good anymore since he went away (Number) One is the loneliest (Number) One is the loneliest (Number) One is the loneliest number that you'll ever do (Number) One is the loneliest (Number) One is the loneliest (Number) One is the loneliest number that you'll ever do

At the time of the above posts: Pink (5,886 posts) * 2 = 11,772 Twopinks (11,772) - Kevbone (11,168 posts) - 608 12:34:56 7/8/09 today = 9! = 362,880 362,880 / 608 = 597 608 - 597 = 11 Kevbone (1) + Pink(1) = 11 in the undeniable yet sophisticated logic of cc love... Nothing negative about those numbers.

That looks real nice - and it's threaded?

Bill, I think maybe the botton plate is separate in that picture and stays in place against the rock to protect it; but I can't tell that for sure. Not sure why the threads are so short - seems like you'd need fully threaded bolts for it to pull a bolt all the way out.

http://supertopo.com/forumsearch.php?ftr=bolt+puller Somewhere in there...

Just break/cut it, push it in, epoxy over it and put the new one somewhere nearby would be what I would do. The alternative is a custom made puller - look on ST I think for photos.

It's a miracle how many gifts and deficits can reside in the same body. But for sheer post counts and deep thinking, you guys make the perfect couple.

So pronounces the non-climbing whiner from Colorado...

Wow, 'Spray' really needs to be renamed 'Whine' lately. But then that would require victimal ex-libs to clearly label their true passion. And who the fuck, after blaming their move to the front range on the Beacon closure, spends endless hours whining about poor Beacon instead of climbing in Eldo? I guess whining on cc doesn't require bothering to get in shape enough to take advantage of the endless climbing in CO. Yeah, sure, whine about it for a year or two, but just how many years has it been now since the big flight of the persecuted? And just what is your recent whine-to-climb ratio in days? Are we running under a 100-to-1 yet? How many days did you even bother to climb last year? How many this year? Dude, get a grip, get in shape, and get over it finally. And a little primer for you and the 'bone on political action investments - it always pays to seperate self-indulgence from coordinated activities that stand to make a difference in outcomes. As a 'sticking it to the man' activity, breaking the closure at Beacon falls pretty hard under infantile and self-indulgent and does nothing but make the situation worse each succeeding time it happens. In both short and long term it has never been anything but a 'sticking it to ourselves activity'. And, I don't and never have had any 'authority' of any kind out at Beacon - especially not over early opens which are strictly driven by the biology. What I do have out there after working at it for five years is relationships and some understanding of Peregrine biology and behavior. And that this year the breeding cycle is running late so we don't open early - bummer. But for four years out of five so far we have opened early which isn't a bad record and we've opened early in part because of those relationships. But personally, I couldn't give a rat's ass what you or anyone else thinks about it. I do it so I get in more days of climbing every year - that, and I'm just not a sit-around-and-whine sort of guy. Mia probably put it best: "...But when you scamps get together, you're worse than a sewing circle." Whine on dude, whine on...

What a joke. Shutter less than 200 food distribution points, a handful of gasoline pipeline terminals, and McDonalds and the country folds like a piece of paper - not a shot fired. Yeah, you and you gun are a real threat to a determined Cheney.

Way too McGyver to call...

I don't authorize anything. But, for infants who just absolutely need authority figures to 'rebel' against to complete themselves, I'm happy to volunteer. And who is it that employs you, again? And who is it that employs your wife? My god if you aren't a real rebel - and making a difference, too...

There is no better material than the kevlar - the problem was with the glue job, not the string. And you 'might' call them? They can't help you or talk with you if you don't call them...

Other areas have a lot more rock to work with and bigger/multiple faces. Typical buffer zones distances unfortunately cover the entire South face at Beacon. Then there is the issue of a solid history of folks breaking the closure at Beacon which has played badly into any conversation about limited closures. How many folks do you suppose would keep heading up Dods each year once they've done FFA?

Perfect - I'm out of it then...