Dear Members,
I don't think I have shared with you the wonderful experience I had in February
at the Cody Ice Festival. The Festival has grown over the years but remains
small enough for one to meet every participant during the weekend. I gave a
presentation on Saturday night to a number just shy of 100. Despite its small
size, it is well attended by vendors and there is plenty of gear to test. It
happens every year over President's weekend-pencil it in for next year and I
will see you there.
Nigel Gregory and Jim Donini just returned from the Red Rock Rendezvous-another
of the many climbing events worth attending. According to Nigel, there was a
little wind on Saturday, which separated the good, mountain borne campers from
the rest. If you were there, please let me know how our representatives fared.
As we move towards fiscal 2007, the staff and I are investigating ways that the
club can become more efficient. If you are reading this, you already participate
in the efficiency of electronic communication. Please do your part by inquiring
with your fellow members as to whether they are receiving e-news. A simple call
to the office to update an e-mail address is all that is needed if they are
not-and we never share e-mail addresses.
Another efficiency success was this week's installation of better Spam filtering
system on the Club's e-network. If you feel our new filter has grabbed one of
your notes to us, let us know.
And finally, we have produced a new brochure and I am proud of the way it
portrays the Club. If you have a friend who should be a member, let us know and
we will send one out.
Next week brings daylight savings time and more climbing for us all.
Yours,
Phil Powers
Executive Director
ppowers@americanalpineclub.org
AAC HONORED BY CLIMBING MAGAZINE
The AAC has received Climbing magazine's annual Golden Piton Award for service
to the climbing community, in honor of its decisive response to victims of the
October 8 earthquake in Asia. The AAC and its affiliates shipped 20 tons of gear
and supplies to Pakistan and raised more than $100,000 for earthquake relief
(including $30,000 directly from members).
The Golden Pitons, most of which celebrate the year's top climbing achievements,
are featured in Climbing's April 2006 edition (No. 247). Past winners of the
"Service" category include Sean Patrick, founder of the HERA Ovarian Cancer
Climb for Life; Peter Metcalf, CEO of Black Diamond and wilderness activist; and
Greg Mortenson, founder of the Central Asia Institute. For updates on the AAC's
efforts in Pakistan, visit http://americanalpineclub.org/pakistanrelief.asp.
MORTENSON BOOK IS HOT TITLE
Greg Mortenson, founder of the Central Asia Institute and winner of the AAC's
David Brower Conservation Award, is the man of the hour this month. His new
book, Three Cups of Tea: One Man's Mission to Fight Terrorism and Build Nations,
One School at a Time, written with David Oliver Relin, has made best-seller
lists around the country and has been featured on numerous national TV shows.
The book tells the story of Mortenson's ongoing campaign, starting with zero
funding in 1993, to build schools in the mountainous regions of Central Asia; so
far, his organization has created 55 schools. Mortenson is doing a book tour;
see www.threecupsoftea.com for a date when he may be speaking near you.
AAC CONSERVATION SUMMIT PLANNED
On April 21, AAC conservation committee members, board members, interested club
members and key advisers from the outdoor industry and environmental nonprofits
will gather in Golden to debate the club's conservation mission. Currently, the
portion of the AAC's mission that pertains to conservation reads: "...the Club
is dedicated to... the conservation and preservation of the mountain
environment...." On the recommendation of the international and domestic
conservation committees, the board has endorsed a process that will narrow this
rather broad statement. The eventual goal is to create a comprehensive strategy
that will establish the AAC as a leader in a conservation arena tightly aligned
with its overall mission.
This is a rare opportunity to participate in guiding the direction of the Club
and building momentum for our conservation work. If you have not already
responded, please RSVP to Tara Skredynski at tskredynski@americanalpineclub.org
. Agenda and other details will be sent to those who are coming
KYRGYZSTAN MAP WINS NATIONAL AWARD
Kyrgyzstan: A Climber's Map and Guide, an insert in last year's American Alpine
Journal, has received an honorable mention in the 33rd annual ACSM-CaGIS Map
Design Competition, the most prestigious awards for mapmakers in the country.
The 27-inch by 18-inch map was designed and created by Martin Gamache of the
Alpine Mapping Guild (www.alpinemapguild.com), with text by Garth Willis
(www.alpinefund.org). The map is available for purchase ($12) at
http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=647.
POWERS ESSAY TO AIR ON NPR
AAC Executive Director Phil Powers draws on his lifelong experience as a
mountaineer in a "This I Believe" essay that will air April 3 on NPR's "All
Things Considered program." The 3-minute "This I Believe" essays are contributed
by people from all walks of life. Powers' piece describes what he has learned
about pace in the mountains and how that helps him in other aspects of his life.
A quote: "When I was 19, I learned something called the rest step from an old
mountain climber named Paul Petzoldt. He advised me to rest in the middle of
each step-completely but briefly.... The awareness of pace I owe to my teacher
has served me whether I am seeking the world's highest summits, sharing my love
for the mountains with others, or kneeling to look my son, Gus, in the eye when
he has a question.
You can read the entire essay after April 3 by visiting
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=4538138.
GET PSYCHOVERTICAL WITH ALPINIST ANDY KIRKPATRICK
British mountaineer Andy Kirkpatrick has created one of the web's best resources
for real-world advice on gear and technique for serious climbers. Kirkpatrick
specializes in winter climbs in the Alps, Patagonia and Alaska-environments that
sort out textbook advice and catalog copy from what really works. He gives good
advice on bivouac techniques, climbing as a party of three, hauling a pack,
rappel anchors, eating at altitude and a whole lot more. Check it out at
www.psychovertical.com.
YOUTH CLIMBING FESTIVAL IN RUSSIA
Climbers age 18 to 25 are invited to attend the International Youth Rock
Climbing Festival Europe-Asia this summer in the Ural Mountains and Siberia. The
two-week festival (July 14-Aug. 2, 2006) offers climbing at numerous different
sites, rafting, educational opportunities and the chance to make friends from
all over the world. The program includes all meals and camping or refuge lodging
for just 250 euros. Registration is due by May 31. For information or an
application, contact Vitaly Primerov at the Children's Olympic Reserve School of
Mountaineering Sports in Ekaterinburg, Russia: 011-7-343-212-7677; email
vprimerov@mail.ru .
LAST CHANCE FOR SPRING GRANTS
April 3rd is the application deadline for two AAC grant programs: the
Mountaineering Fellowship Fund and the Zack Martin Breaking Barriers Grant. The
Mountaineering Fellowship Fund provides grants to climbers 25 and younger for
ambitious climbing adventures they might not otherwise be able to afford. The
Zack Martin grant offers $2,500 to support climbing expeditions that have a
strong humanitarian purpose as well as climbing objectives. For information on
applying to either program, visit
http://americanalpineclub.org/knowledge/grants.asp.
AMGA SEEKING PROGRAM DIRECTOR
The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) seeks a full-time program
director, based in Boulder, Colorado. The program director is responsible for
coordinating, marketing and managing all AMGA field programs. Experience in the
climbing, guiding and/or general outdoor industry is required, along with strong
communication and organizational skills. Contact Mike Alkaitis, executive
director, at mike@amga.com ; application deadline is March 31.
CLIMBER COMMENTS NEEDED TO REOPEN CITY OF ROCKS' TWIN SISTERS
The City of Rocks National Reserve has begun revising its 1998 Climbing
Management Plan. However, according to an Access Fund memo, the National Park
Service has already "consented to the continued permanent closure of Twin
Sisters to technical climbing," despite several less-restrictive management
alternatives supported by the entire Idaho congressional delegation, local
residents and the climbing community. In order to reclaim at least some climbing
at Twin Sisters, climbers need to ask the National Park Service to expand the
narrow scope of the planned revision and to add an alternative that provides
some climbing on Twin Sisters. Send comments by March 31 to Wallace Keck,
Superintendent, City of Rocks National Reserve, P.O. Box 169, Almo, ID 83312;
fax 208-824-5563; email Wallace_Keck@partner.nps.gov . For more information,
visit www.accessfund.org/pubs/en/e-news65.htm#_Climber_Comments_Needed_1.
WORK WITH OUTWARD BOUND
Do you-or someone you know-want to spend the summer outdoors in the Rocky
Mountains, the Sierra or Oregon? Outward Bound Wilderness is hiring instructors
for its summer season, particularly people with mountaineering and/or river
rafting skills. To find out more or download an application, visit
www.outwardboundwilderness.com/field_jobs.html.
COMING EVENTS
April 1
Illinois
The AAC Midwest Section and the Chicago Mountaineering Club hold their annual
dinner, with special guest Phil Powers speaking on climbs in Alaska, Wyoming and
Pakistan. The dinner is at the Chicago Yacht Club's Monroe Street location. For
more info or tickets, visit www.cmcwebsite.org or email section chair Ben Kweton
at ben_kweton@yahoo.com .
April 4
Alaska
Ralph Baldwin presents a show on climbing in the Rwenzori Range, including an
ascent of Mt. Stanley, at the BP Energy Center, 900 E. Benson, in Anchorage.
Contact Harry Hunt at hohunt@gci.net.
April 15-17
Colorado
Alpine ace and impresario Jonny Copp organizes the second annual Boulder
Adventure Film Festival and Dirt Days: movies, mountain-sports challenges,
environmental education and more. See www.boulderadventurefilm.com.
April 21
Colorado
AAC Conservation Summit, an all-day meeting designed to hone the club's mission
statement regarding mountain conservation. Meeting starts at 8:30 a.m. at the
American Mountaineering Center in Golden. Info: ppowers@americanalpineclub.org .
April 29
California
"Monumental," the award-winning documentary film about David Brower, will be
screened at 7:30 p.m. in Yosemite Valley's West Auditorium, preceded by a 6 p.m.
reception hosted by the Sierra Nevada section. See www.loteriafilms.org for more
about the film. Questions? Contact Sierra Nevada Section Chair Ellen Lapham at
elapham@aimhigh1.com .
May 12-14
Oregon
HERA Ovarian Cancer Climb for Life will hold a fund-raising climbing festival
over Mother's Day weekend at Smith Rock. Info and registration at
www.climb4lifesmith.kintera.org.
E-NEWS POLICIES
In order to protect the interests of our subscribers, we have established the
following E-News policies. The AAC office in Golden is the only source of
outgoing messages to subscribers; recipients cannot respond to or initiate
messages to the list. The AAC will not sell member e-mail addresses to anyone
for any purpose and will have no commercial advertising of any kind in E-News.
Send comments, suggestions or news items to dougald5@comcast.net .
If you know an AAC member who isn't receiving the E-News, it's probably because
the AAC does not have his or her email address. New addresses or address changes
should be sent to getinfo@americanalpineclub.org.
