hemp22

sounds awesome kellie! I'll be there and try to bring the usual suspects. Does anyone have one of those portable camp showers we could use for after playing in the poison oak? ...seriously, i'm crazy allergic to the stuff...

Hey, check this thread out: rc.com beacon rock thread

22

bill - i think i have your problem solved.... ...drive the extra 10 minutes to broughton

Bill - did the cops ever end up responding to your call?

No one going out today (tuesday)?

The supertopo guide is good. If you liked the Tahoe Supertopo, you'll like the Tuolumne Supertopo. It has a little more description/history on some of the climbs than in the Tahoe book. Of course, there's a more extensive falcon guide with a more comprehensive list of routes, but a "select"-type guide like the supertopo will do you just fine for a first trip or a short trip.

yeah, interesting observation about the master cams Bill - I just saw a fixed one today too (bottom of little wing I think - a yellow one). it still wiggled a little, but might come out with enough determination. One of the Kevlar trigger wires was already busted. Maybe it has to do with the combination of the very flexible stem with the relatively small range.

you're in the PDX area, right? I might be willing to take those quests off your hands for $25

i should be able to make it today - can be there by 5:00 or so. see you there bill.

Nice Bill. Nice comment on the blog too. I'll get out and fill it with cams & gear and abuse it with you once you get it. We can compare it to the lighter weight Cilogear worksack that I've been using.

I've been using a clunky Edelrid as well, and have been meaning to replace it with something lighter and a little more "stylin'". The Metolius Safe Tech helmet looked great to me too, but they're delaying the release of it until at least late fall, so that one is gonna be a bit of a wait. Kong, Cassin, and Simond all also sell foam/bike-style helmets that should be lighter & more comfy than the old-school brain bucket for cragging. Climbing Mag has some reviews of them.

Just copying here a couple noteworthy posts that Michael Lane (of Omega Pacific) made on rc.com. 1) New link cam inspection notice: http://www.omegapac.com/op_climbing_notices.html 2) Update on the link cam that broke in J-Tree last year. Basically - don't place a link cam, or any cam, where it could get leveraged out of a pod if the lobes don't rotate. Link

Much thanks to Kevin & Ben for the bolting know-how. And much thanks to Tony, the Access Fund & ASCA for the hardware. Shoot me a PM when you guys want to get back out there and clean up some of the other manky bolts - I'm up for helping out again.

Hey All, This Saturday, June 7, is the Broughton's Bluff Adopt-a-Crag. Show up at Lewis & Clark State Park, rain or shine, at 10:00 to do some trail maintenance, clean-up, and anchor maintenance. There will be free schwag giveaways and a BBQ put on by the good poeple at Climb Max Mountaineering...and, of course, climbing!

Personally, I'd be a little wary about Petzl ropes too because of the issues with their Zephyr 10.2mm (see Joseph's post). I think that either the Mammut (Infinity) or Bluewater (dominator) in th same diameter range that you're looking at would be preferable. But, of course, they're both more expensive too. If you're looking to save a few bucks and a even more weight, it looks like you could get a 70M Mammut Serenity (8.9mm) for probably the same or less $$ than the 70M Petzl Fuse.

anyone getting out wednesday if it stays dry-ish?

i don't have any examples of non-climbers actually screwing with gear & causing a problem - but if it were going to happy anywhere, it'd probably be Rocky Butte (meth-riddled brain thinks all them shiny clippy things are worth somethin for scrap metal). I think trundling or tossing rocks is a whole different issue, but there are certainly examples of where that had bad results (Pete Absolon is a notable recent one).

ditto on Supertopo. and you might check the supertopo website to see if there's any update to the camping beta - i think i heard you have to pay for the campsite now.

i'd definitely say it's worth it for a weekend or more. just come after mid-july when beacon is open. I think you can camp at beacon rock state park. the recommended route list could be extensive - what are you looking for? (single vs multipitch? gear vs bolts? grades?)

yeah, these have been out for several years, at least. kind of gimmicky. Although one advantage is supposed to be the ability to use a locking biner on it so that you never have to worry about unclipping or open-gate loading, I've never see it as advantageous for that purpose. The thing that will occasionally make this useful is that you can get a few extra inches of reach out of it if you're trying to clip a hard-to-reach bolt.

FYI, The West Face movie is great, and it would be well worth attending this just to see the movie. It's kind of like being in a time machine, and is pretty far ahead of its time for climbing-film-making. Any Seattlite should try to go see it if you're not busy.

If looking for classics to aspire to, I'll add: The Rostrum Cloud Tower Maybe not quite so lofty: Incredible Hulk - Red Dihedral, Positive Vibrations, or Sun Spot Dihedral. Devil's Tower - Assembly Line & El Matador Grand Wall

it's funny that REI chose to edit the product name and just call it the "Metolius Cheap B" on their website. Anyway, Bill, if you or anyone else is looking, I have a generic brand cheap bastard I'll sell ya for $60 - brand new & never used.

that's a serious bummer about the binding. What model of Naxo was he using? some of those bindings I certainly wouldn't want to abuse too hard - but to break while just stepping out of it is messed up.