hemp22

Bump. Broughton's Bluff Adopt-a-crag is this Sunday, 10:00-2:00. Free stuff & climbing afterwards.

well, good work winning the battle with the first wasp at least. we were climbing next to you on Critical - so of course we made sure to get down before you started swatting at things. The big wasp nest at Bat Wall has reformed this year as well.

cdomsch has a good point - If you're gonna have to pay for daily parking anyway, just stay @ the bivy site & get a better deal. But, the hollow is certainly a more easy & social place to camp. if you think the late night noise will bother you, just bring ear plugs. you'll want them in the morning anyway when the cows are walking next to your campsite waking you up.

Was it on rope-de-dope? See this post on Smithrock.com Even if they weren't on rope-de-dope - if it was a harder climb, it was probably some local's project draws, and you'd have a better chance finding someone who's missing them by posting the same message on smithrock.com

it looks like the kid who put all the bolts in doesn't want it climbed. Apparently, the new lines are already named & rated & sprayed about online even though they are "closed projects"? "closed" project 1 "closed" project 2 it may just be inexperience. kinda like that bolt on the top of the first pitch that's sticking out an inch. (I was on P1 on Monday - any gear you left up there was gone). on the other route in question, i tend to agree w/ a lot of folks that projects can't just be "reserved" for long. regardless of how disrespectful the sender was for getting the redpoint against the developer's wishes, the developer (especially one with a ton of other FAs) should know that wanting people to "save" a line for so long is just unreasonable.

For anyone interested, Beyond Fleece has their new site up & running after a relocation & expansion of their production line. Their new site is beyondclothing.com The new line of custom-fit stuff includes synthetic base layer tops & bottoms, and primaloft jackets & pants. They're accepting orders now, although they won't start production until June 1st. Also, they relocated from Eugene to Seattle, so you Seattlites will probably now be able to get some good deals at their yearly outlet/warehouse type sale.

After keeping an eye out for it over the last couple weeks at Broughton, I have to agree - the stuff is running rampant out there. It would be great if someone who's immune to it (definitely not me) wants to go pull some of the stuff that's right by the trails - but I'll also bug the access fund to see if they can get the Parks service to do something about it - maybe @ the adopt-a-crag in June.

Mark's link above is to the 5.9+ new slabby route to the left of Gandalf's P1. There are also some more bolts above that pitch that go out over the roof that's to the left of Gandalf's P2. As far as I know that upper route hasn't been completed yet, but when I was out there last year the guy bolting it (philip) was estimating it'd be mid/hard 5.13. As for the guidebook - there are quite a few new routes at the areas that are already in the book (broughton, rocky, etc), but not so many that it'd be a huge problem. I think the big roadblock is that to do a non-half-assed job of a new Portland book, people would expect it to also include the newer Portland-area crags that aren't currently in a book, and that would make it a much bigger project. All the route-data-gathering & understanding access-issue stuff would be a lot of work.

they might have been talking about something on either Snake Rock or Angel Flight Buttress - those 2 walls are both basically the same area, and are not far to the left of the pass when facing east. Don't know which route they'd be talking about, but there are a few new-ish moderate sport routes to the right of split image that see a lot of traffic these days - might be one of those. Edit: I think the newer routes are listed in the red addendum

for the sliding X, the legs will each be ~12", so the angle will be 60 degrees, and the load on each bolt will be less than with the AT (based on the #s in the link above).

can you give info on about when & where you found the stuff? I was out there in the evening with friends yesterday, but I don't think we're missing anything. but i also know some folks that were there on Sunday.

Looks like the Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag event @ Broughton's Bluff is scheduled for Sunday, 6/3/07, 10am-3pm. http://www.accessfund.org/regions/aac/OR

Another good rope deal - beal 10.2mm x 60M for $84: http://www.backcountry.com/store/BLD0557/c5/s34/Beal-Edlinger-II-10.2mm-Rope.html?mv_pc=318

looks like i can bounce out of work early enough today to get outside. might see you guys there, ~5:30 or 6:00

out of the companies listed on smithrock.com, i can recommend the First Ascent folks that operate out of RedPoint. But I'm not sure how much they'd vary from the usual Buckets-Easy Reader circuit. If you're looking to get a more customized/personalized experience, I can recommend Northwest Wilderness Institute. They're smaller and more likely to be booked for the summer. They don't have a web site but I can probably find their contact info for you.

Glad to hear you got a good deal on 'em. Did you get a chance to scratch 'em up last weekend? sorry i missed out on that. Yeah, I saw that thread about the rivet falling out. The OP response was the polar opposite of the CCH response to their issue, so it left me with a good feeling still about OP & their cams. Mine has been weighted in an anchor at least once, but otherwise hasn't really been tested. I'll be sure to check out the rivets next time i get out.

OP Link Cam #2 for $73. Today only. http://onedaydeal.net/1climbomatic/ Edit: disclaimer: i've never ordered from these guys, but i hear they can take weeks to ship an order, and are not very responsive. The reviews i've seen of their service make them seem to be not very reputable/honest. Use at your own risk.

Thanks Bill - I think I found the link: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php#011907 that's pretty much what I was worried about. All his tests look like they were on 9.4mm ropes, so it would be nice to see the tests on a 10-10.5mm ropes of the same age/usage. He didn't really specify how old they were other than they were "beat". I'm mainly wondering just how much more quickly a 9.1-9.4 rope gets to that stage than a 10-10.5 does.

My experience with the thread markings on the Metolius Monster(?) ropes is that most of the exposed thread breaks off, but it still leaves a little bit visible. I'd think you'd be better off using a bright thread than using dental floss, which is more likely to slide right back out. Out of curiosity, for those of you with the Beal Joker, or similar, what is the longevity like? I'm toying with the idea of getting one ($150 for 70M seems pretty good), but want to know if I'm gonna have to replace it after spending a week or two in, say, the canyons at Red Rock.

Tie into the powerpoint with your rope, using a clove hitch to a locking biner. Your rope is dynamic. Slings & daisies are not, so I wouldn't use them if you're going to belay the next pitch. If you do connect in with a daisy chain, be sure that you are not using it in a way where you'll become totally disconnected if the smaller loop bartacks start to blow out. --- actually, I just read the next post, and it's hard to tell from your question, but I think you might be asking whether it's okay to connect to the anchor with your daisy/sling and a locker, and then re-direct the rope through that same locker when belaying. If that's the case, then the answer is no - you probably don't want to have a moving rope through the same biner as the one you're hanging off. If the follower falls, the friction can damage the nylon, so use a second biner.

Kevbone, Just to add another vote: Critical Mass does not need an added bolt. While the climbing to the anchor may be heady or psychologically tough, anyone who's made it through the crux should be able to pull off moves from the last bolt to the anchor. I've never taken a fall from that slab before the anchor, but I actually think that the last bolt before the slab is positioned where it actually sets it up to be a relatively clean fall. If you're thinking about using your drill to do something benevolent at Broughton, I think you'd be better off using it to fix or replace some of the rusty, manky old bolts on some of the climbs. They're probably more likely to get someone hurt when they break/pull than the slab at the top of Critical Mass.

http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=48018929 Mammut Galaxy 10mm x 60M non-dry $99.83 at REI.

Hm, i could be at either RB or LakeO at around 5:30 if people are gonna be out

When I was shopping for AT skis it came down to my two top choices being the same skis you're looking at: the havocs (173) and the mt bakers (174). The havocs are very springy & snappy. The bakers are more damp, like the review says above. So, the havocs will be more suited to quicker turns, but the bakers will do cruiser turns a little better. I went with the havocs, and I'm happy with them. Since getting them, I have spent about equal amount of time in resorts & in the BC. A good friend of mine just bought the Bakers (174), and he and I otherwise have the same setup (same boots/size & same bindings), so I'll hopefully soon be able to compare the two head-to-head very soon. at 5'10" I think either one would probably work well for you. If you're not used to the fatter, more shaped skis like the Bakers, then the 167s might be more manageable.

i was hoping to get outside today, but i'm still stuck at work and working later than expected. At least I don't feel as bad since it looks like it's raining anyway. I'll probably end up at stoney's tonight, but will be interested in trying to get outside on Wednesday if it's dry. Edit: by the way, thanks a bunch Joseph for volunteering to clean up that crap.