jmace
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Everything posted by jmace
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Janez should pipe in on Grand Cappucino, even I got sick of him trying for that one, and I heard he flew back for another try, math guys can bash their head for a while I geuss, maybe thats why their good at math I think I tried for Samson N face 3 times, never got more than hour from the truck, now that the bridge is gone I geuss I could get more than hour from the truck, not going back for that one, Samson wins
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I bet Bivouac.com has some info that would help you
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I have a fine connection all I get is some blackalicious song and no video
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Important Info for Snoqualmie Summit Pass Holders
jmace replied to BreezyD's topic in Climber's Board
is there any other hills doing the same or near the same?? The other argument I have heard is: you buy a season pass at a reduced rate becasue you are gambling on the season and if you do not like to gamble you can buy day passes... -
Important Info for Snoqualmie Summit Pass Holders
jmace replied to BreezyD's topic in Climber's Board
with the local hills in BC saying F you I say thats is the most amazing thing Ive seen -
Why dont they make a gum that grows my fuckin hair back then instead of having to make my so-so girlfriend chew gum to grow bigger tits I could just go out and get a new hotter girlfriend with bigger tits... is that so hard to comprehend, whats this gum called, big tit gum, how bout sign me up for a life time supply of full head of hair gum
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Any skills related to TV, are you canadian?
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Clint is one of my all time hero's, pretty damn close to bond, so both of those guys in my opinion deserve to be on my Favourite mag
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Cougar? the ice in PG?
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enough, where the hell is mine, argg they told me Ihave to wait till the 22nd before I can get mad, how long have you guys had yours for?
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Most people wish everything was controlled by a button, push this to eat, this one to exercise, this one to talk, hey I dont enven need to think, just push buttons, hey im a monkey woohoo
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A larger shot exits in the gallery, we started from the lucky four mine, you could maybe sart closer to the N face and add a bit more climbing to the route. In the large picture you can see the blue rock, I suppose that was what they were mining for, copper ?
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But what happens when you pound your axe in as a picket and it does this: hard to tell but the crack is deep and large, warranty? suggestions? Crack goes through the two rivets. a large one is in the gallery
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thanks Todd, any time I can return the favour
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Climb: Foley Peak-NE Ridge Date of Climb: 3/13/2005 Trip Report: Don pretty much covered the reasons for heading in to the Cheam range this weekend, sun, cold overnight lows and a snow free road. All I had to do was add the little bit about the NE ridge being unclimbed, which I gleaned from Ponzini's post about the route. http://cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=400263 Saturday morning had us leaving quite early as we didnt have the prior knowledge of the time it would take us to reach camp. Slogging up the road and then the remarkably well-kept trail saw us at our camp in about 5 hours. What an amazing place and even still amazing snow conditions. We scoped the ridge and it looked steep and not at all that straightforward. We talked about various routes up the ridge and then Toby just said: " its the ridge we need to stay on it till the top." Ok well lets get to bed. Alarms were set for 4:30 am, 1:00 am arrived and so did hurricane marge, the tent wanted to make a beeline back to Wahaleach lake and I wanted to sleep. We emerged from the tent at 6 am in a full blown wind storm and it continued for most of the day making the climb that much more difficult, hard to hear, friggin cold, snow blowing up the chimneys, and snow blowing in to your face when kicking steps up steep slopes. Oh ya it's winter, sort of. I climbed a mellow snow slope to get us established on the ridge. Toby then led off in to a small chimney that was coated with ice and powder snow, he topped out and threw a belay in: a knife blade and a large friend between two loose blocks. I came up and set off on lead I needed to go over Toby so I made a grab for the knife blade to start me out, " Oh I wouldnt grab that dude" this seemed to be the theme of the day for our belay's. Climbing a pitch of really loose rock, stopping, putting in the belay and then cinching down the equalization sling I ripped the whole thing out," ok bud I think I will go higher." Toby led out off the slung choss pile I found higher into an amazing pitch: a slanting ice filled groove traversed this steep rock pitch which put him on the snow slope a few pitches below the summit pyramid. We simul soloed the snow until the ice chimney I mentioned in my email to Don, actually Toby kept going up this thing which turned out to be amazing ice in an even more amazing position. By the time I made it on to the ice he had set up a belay and began bringing me up, I was hootin and hollerin about how good it was. On top I found Toby with his axes smashed in the ice as our belay, oh well, as Don said you really cant be falling around on these things. We were only about 20 m from the summit and I told Toby to do it since I had not had a rest since we started simul climbing. I came up grabbed the last hold and it was loose, so I moved it over to the side, on top right on!! Hey wheres the summit cairn, you just moved it, haha, right on the last move is the summit cairn. 3pm Then it was just motoring down the SE ridge, easy some snow down climbing and one rap into a couloir that led us down to the lucky four glacier and a cell phone : hi work ya, um Im not going to be in till after 12 tomorrow. Back at camp by 6pm 10 hours from camp to camp Good times in the hills Toby Froschauer: DR Hook Jesse Mason Gear Notes: 2 screws, small rock rack to 3.5, 3 Lost arrows, 2 knife blades coulda used more, 2 ropes 1 would be adequate. Approach Notes: Fine trail, almost too nice
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first ascent [TR] Welch Peak- NE Face FA/FWA 3/13/2005
jmace replied to Don_Serl's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Fern is actually somewhere in California right now It was Toby I was with, AKA Dr. Hook. He was going to write a TR but none yet, maybe ill do it for him. -
dont worry after wednesday it will rain till the end of March, should make studying easier, however the next few days are gonna be stellar alpine climbing.
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He likes Penis penisula ?? Penis nsula,
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[TR] Nine Lives Peak (Pk 5110)- From Kromona Mine Road 3/6/2005
jmace replied to klenke's topic in North Cascades
Nice, TR, A quick note on 10 000, thats 1100 each which over 20 years of climbing is a new peak every week. that my friend is impressive!!! -
yep sawed off tree, well theres probably not many moves of 5.9, maybe near the top?
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Old Age ? I climbed it last week then did sparkys, best damn thing I have done in that area, I though it was labelled as 5.9? Did you see that huge nest on top of the chimney you climb through.
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didnt some one tell him hes bringing the drugs the wrong way? isnt it weed for coke?? if yu cant hold on to some loot after doing a 27 mill deal, you have some problems.
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so what happens? is there no end ??? if that last page is the end, then Ted
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I was thinking it would be more like ice climbing where you may have climbed a 5 in 3 conditions, fair is fair. How do you go and do the second ascent of slesse during this winter and compare it to the first. a quick look at the weather back in 86, pretty sure that was the FA year, 83 cm of snow fell on the ground in chilliwack during the month of February. Now thats winter!! yes NE butress, thx, at least I got the year right.
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I heard bad techno then three guys with their shirts off came on to my screen and I thought it was gay porn so I shut it off. would have like to have seen some climbing though
