jmace

Climb: Foley Peak-NE Ridge Date of Climb: 3/13/2005 Trip Report: Don pretty much covered the reasons for heading in to the Cheam range this weekend, sun, cold overnight lows and a snow free road. All I had to do was add the little bit about the NE ridge being unclimbed, which I gleaned from Ponzini's post about the route. http://cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=400263 Saturday morning had us leaving quite early as we didnt have the prior knowledge of the time it would take us to reach camp. Slogging up the road and then the remarkably well-kept trail saw us at our camp in about 5 hours. What an amazing place and even still amazing snow conditions. We scoped the ridge and it looked steep and not at all that straightforward. We talked about various routes up the ridge and then Toby just said: " its the ridge we need to stay on it till the top." Ok well lets get to bed. Alarms were set for 4:30 am, 1:00 am arrived and so did hurricane marge, the tent wanted to make a beeline back to Wahaleach lake and I wanted to sleep. We emerged from the tent at 6 am in a full blown wind storm and it continued for most of the day making the climb that much more difficult, hard to hear, friggin cold, snow blowing up the chimneys, and snow blowing in to your face when kicking steps up steep slopes. Oh ya it's winter, sort of. I climbed a mellow snow slope to get us established on the ridge. Toby then led off in to a small chimney that was coated with ice and powder snow, he topped out and threw a belay in: a knife blade and a large friend between two loose blocks. I came up and set off on lead I needed to go over Toby so I made a grab for the knife blade to start me out, " Oh I wouldnt grab that dude" this seemed to be the theme of the day for our belay's. Climbing a pitch of really loose rock, stopping, putting in the belay and then cinching down the equalization sling I ripped the whole thing out," ok bud I think I will go higher." Toby led out off the slung choss pile I found higher into an amazing pitch: a slanting ice filled groove traversed this steep rock pitch which put him on the snow slope a few pitches below the summit pyramid. We simul soloed the snow until the ice chimney I mentioned in my email to Don, actually Toby kept going up this thing which turned out to be amazing ice in an even more amazing position. By the time I made it on to the ice he had set up a belay and began bringing me up, I was hootin and hollerin about how good it was. On top I found Toby with his axes smashed in the ice as our belay, oh well, as Don said you really cant be falling around on these things. We were only about 20 m from the summit and I told Toby to do it since I had not had a rest since we started simul climbing. I came up grabbed the last hold and it was loose, so I moved it over to the side, on top right on!! Hey wheres the summit cairn, you just moved it, haha, right on the last move is the summit cairn. 3pm Then it was just motoring down the SE ridge, easy some snow down climbing and one rap into a couloir that led us down to the lucky four glacier and a cell phone : hi work ya, um Im not going to be in till after 12 tomorrow. Back at camp by 6pm 10 hours from camp to camp Good times in the hills Toby Froschauer: DR Hook Jesse Mason Gear Notes: 2 screws, small rock rack to 3.5, 3 Lost arrows, 2 knife blades coulda used more, 2 ropes 1 would be adequate. Approach Notes: Fine trail, almost too nice

Fern is actually somewhere in California right now It was Toby I was with, AKA Dr. Hook. He was going to write a TR but none yet, maybe ill do it for him.

dont worry after wednesday it will rain till the end of March, should make studying easier, however the next few days are gonna be stellar alpine climbing.

He likes Penis penisula ?? Penis nsula,

Nice, TR, A quick note on 10 000, thats 1100 each which over 20 years of climbing is a new peak every week. that my friend is impressive!!!

yep sawed off tree, well theres probably not many moves of 5.9, maybe near the top?

Old Age ? I climbed it last week then did sparkys, best damn thing I have done in that area, I though it was labelled as 5.9? Did you see that huge nest on top of the chimney you climb through.

didnt some one tell him hes bringing the drugs the wrong way? isnt it weed for coke?? if yu cant hold on to some loot after doing a 27 mill deal, you have some problems.

so what happens? is there no end ??? if that last page is the end, then Ted

I was thinking it would be more like ice climbing where you may have climbed a 5 in 3 conditions, fair is fair. How do you go and do the second ascent of slesse during this winter and compare it to the first. a quick look at the weather back in 86, pretty sure that was the FA year, 83 cm of snow fell on the ground in chilliwack during the month of February. Now thats winter!! yes NE butress, thx, at least I got the year right.

I heard bad techno then three guys with their shirts off came on to my screen and I thought it was gay porn so I shut it off. would have like to have seen some climbing though

Not theirs, not mine or Ferns either.

or here http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post399110

could be a tad toasty AREA FORECAST DISCUSSION NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SEATTLE WA 830 AM PST TUE MAR 1 2005 HIGH PRESSURE EARLY NEXT WEEK COULD BRING THE WARMEST TEMPERATURES SO FAR THIS SEASON.

WOW, after all those pictures of houses, cars and major debris you wouldt think a towel wrapped around a plam tree would hold. I think you would have to wait a long time for e water to recede after the first wave. In fact didnt the water go fairly far inland? amazing stories though

Lillooet hit a Record high at 12.6 on Sunday. Good on you for hittin up ice there

how was it ??? good on you!!!!

151.1 hours of sunshine february 1968, 149.6 1996, 123 so far this feb. global warming?? From the GVRD: "The snow packs on the north shore have reduced and while they are nice to have they are not crucial to the drinking water supply, becasue the region gets most of its water from rainfall." they sure dont seem that worried. J

With a stellar weekend past no one is admitting to trying or climbing anything?? Fern and I slogged our asses all the way up the South face of the E lion, then down and around it and home. Good times, nice snow and sunny skies. One heck of a long day though!! what did you do?? J

The King of sprayers lets this one out and no one gets on him?? Third hand, I call bulshit. Some one who knew some one told me

Nice Work Boys How was the snow conditions on the way down, would you have needed snow shoes on the way up or was it fairly consolidated. Thanks j

Im going home and I hope everyone gets out this weekend to play in the snow, I will Cheers

i dont even know what iam looking at or reading for that matter??

thats awesome, its this sort of thing that people who jump all over global warming forget about instead its always someones SUV blah blah blah, when someones says "I think everyone who bought a season pass should send their recipt to GW and demand a refund. " what you gonna do stop building, its little things like this that add up to make a big problem not just one thing. good points Ricardo

which is the reasin the place got destroyed, when, a few years ago there was no bridge the place was awesome!!! now meagre, st agnus, and clear creek are destroyed becasue its 2wd. lame, that only leaves the pitt river hot springs