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jmace

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Everything posted by jmace

  1. Theres patchy snow at the Flavelle hut, lake is completely unfrozen. Glacier route to Joffre lakes in good condition. Many people climbing NE, NW face of Matier. Australian Coulour in good shape. Tracks up Slalok, cornices still exist over the NE face of Joffre over all routes and are ready to go. Jesse
  2. That is priceless Ken!! I use that one to enforce the NO sleeping passengers rule, (unless your the third in the back) if no rumble strips a quick stomp n the brake with a loud yell works amazingly well.
  3. Thats why I sold the Corvair..upgraded to a vehicle that has coolant..
  4. Ya I play the same one over and over again and laugh my head off the whole way..it goes like this I fart you choke, this joke usually works best if your the driver with power window controls..it also has great side affects..like this weekend I dont get to drive.. Hell is also another great game..point all the vents at partner and turn up heat..but slowly so he doesnt notice..love that one..again may limit future driving time so double bonus Or you could buy a duc..I did and its awesome but im too afraid to leave it anywhere so no go for many crag trips..
  5. Do you have a Duc ?
  6. True very true..but dont forget these nights this weekend will be among the shortest...as well light or no winds are very favourable for the best radiative cooling..
  7. You find pockets of it here and there but for the most part that was bred out of the human race a while ago..
  8. although I didnt make it to laid back..Mushroom is stellar and Mercury Vapour was awesome!!!! 10b...highly doubtful..more like 5.9..mushroom was more sustained. I bet Mushroom is the first crack to dry in all of squamish..in the sun, no trees on top, in fact the crack just blanks out at the anchor. I agree with Darren..Mushroom would have a line up and poished to shit..I would do it over and over again..next time ill walk over to laid back
  9. Why not the Tantalus traverse..drive from C town after work arrive in squish at the airport wake up fly in and climb Tantalus to dionne and sleep one day, second day climb dionne takes about an hour or less..make your way to red tit hut..sleep. day three climb serratus and back to the tit..day four hike back to the river to water taxi and maybe some stashed bikes or a pick up to airport and go home..totally reasonable I think I paid 300 for one way trip for two dudes to base of tantalus ridge..a spectacualar trip with no one around.. plus every time you drive the sea to sky you look at that ridge and go mmmmmm
  10. jmace

    Foodie thread

    thats actually the first sign of catching gay..you should go get an anti gay shot
  11. If you gotta take her..take her in style* * XS sizes only, other butts should cover up
  12. Ideally..yes like this Im gonna punch you out...then I punch you out nothing against you just an example
  13. hahah ya..my buddy asked if Mr B was gonna live till the end of the day..? Inspiring. we were just getting ready to head up unfinished when you walked by.
  14. haha..you mean they had more questions..jeez I geuss you were the folks on your way to climb Banana Peel..?
  15. overheard this weekend.. so what pro do I need for dihedral..er I mean deerdree (diedre)..were gonna climb it by headlamp so we need to have it all figured out..is this the approach trail..?
  16. sounds like utter mayhem...
  17. jmace

    Missing Climbers

    Sounds like they are calling off the search...I was hoping for a good survival story.. heres to holding out for a bit more hope.. http://www.adn.com/outdoors/story/7850290p-7744063c.html
  18. Back on Track http://weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-50_metric_e.html
  19. Ive climbed many routes with descriptions.."upper pitches are run out, dirty, never climbed, no pro.." If a leader gets his as handed to him next time he will look at pro availabilty before setting out..proly a good thing. The only problem is if your new bolts affect the original meandering pitch, if so you may have to leave the last bit to the anchors as pro decided by the FA team. In that case you have a mixed sport route which seem to be on the low end of peoples likes
  20. Im using that tonight Dru..get you a little air time
  21. Last dry weekend...May 13 14th for vancity
  22. maybe this is time for one of my favourite quotes
  23. hahahha..today was forecast just fine...the weekend..well Ill give you the goat entrails..fuck My suggestion for this weekend is to get up and look outside..proly will be better than the forecasts indicate.. Are summers are now composed of 1 - 2 day stints of good weather patched together over 3 months to look like seasonal normal weather..crap
  24. oh you mean 99% of the population..yup thats what they do
  25. Why bother...why not get a truck with a camper..why not eat inside and do the whole thing..why go half assed..sleeping and screwing inside an SUV is not good..you dont need some huge camper but something tat is just a bit bigger than a canopy A truck is cheaper, better on gas..if you get an old one easier to work on..
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