Jump to content

jmace

Members
  • Posts

    1938
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jmace

  1. Twins for Alpine (7.5mm): Light and small to pack!! thats my main joy about using them. Great for loose/sharp rock. However Doubles will obviously work but you would have to place gear differently. Why I dont like Twins for Ice, can be quite hard to yard on two pieces of rope and clip them both, especially near the end of a pitch, and when they are wet. Also with the belayer always off to one side out of harms way I find that my ice pitches tend to wander a bit more (so I like using doubles), plus I Thought that twins put a bit more strain on pro than a single piece of rope..could be wrong Any ways, comes down to preference and weight, but really dont get hung up on learning how to belay with doubles..I find it quite easy to have my break hand with my pointer finger between each strand and my free hand feeds out either rope. I bought doubles as my first rope and use them everywhere including squamish. A singe rope really only works if your only going to be cragging, otherwise your gonna need two ropes..even on walk offs...what if you need to go down before the top, sucks to be short every time!
  2. Hmm, maybe you need to come to BC...
  3. Go doubles!!!! but youll need three sets of ropes anyways youll want an ok single for cragging, sport climbing, twins for alpine, and Doubles for ice and wandering routes. Managing doubles is nothing to worry about. Leading on them is no different than leading on singles, just place and clip whatever rope you want to. Note on WC post, just pull whatever rope the leader is clipping with your free hand, while your brake hand hold on to both ropes.
  4. jmace

    funny

    I free pour
  5. I was dreaming about morning ice and afternoon pow pow...anyways if anyone has skied by it what did ya see,if not whatever.. kinda hard to turn down so much fresh..
  6. hey im the one that said that about the snow...maybe it all slid off and its just gleaming blue ice...
  7. Havent seen any reports any one seen it or been on it lately..?
  8. ya they had a snowfall warning in effect at 4pm yesterday for 20 - 25 cm overnight
  9. Re: Bridge River, maybe cause its so freakn warm, I bet Night n Gale is good per Dons Report but it was 6.4c today at Carpenter lake...didnt get above freezing at cayoosh summit today!
  10. Trip: Duffey Lake Road - Duffeys Delight & Cowabunga Dude Date: 2/18/2007 Trip Report: Jeff and I thought we would have at least one more round up in lillooet before admitting the season was over, well its not quite over but getting there. We drove up Saturday morning with the intentions of doing Closet Secrets but as usual we puffed one too many and we decided on something a little closer to the road. Cowabunga Dude fit that description and after scanning the cliff side for potential large human seeking icicles we determined that most lay off to either side and the climb seemed relatively safe. Arriving at the base there was a short 10 m section with poor ice that Jeff led then it was just smooth hero ice for 70m. A really nice climb! Jeff leading the lower pitch of Cowabunga Dude Then it was off to the Renyolds for Beer and a bit of pool then back to the mile-o. The next morning dawnwed a tad cooler, at least the chinooking was gone and we made our way to Duffeys Delight, wow, what an amazing climb!!! A must do for sure!! Crampons and tools out 3 mins from the road make for a nice warm up. We just powered up till it got steep then a little more ice and rock brought us to the main attraction. Duffeys Delight Upper Pitches me getting it started Jeff on the upper Pitch then we just walked down and 2 rappels and we were home for the second period in the hockey game. Lots of washington folks up there and the only place we saw cars were parked at the rambles which looked great!! Gear Notes: ice gear Approach Notes: real tough
  11. Never met a women that didnt like to be described as hot...
  12. jmace

    holy fuck!

    I thought the title represented my attitude towards the new 3d sports illustrated swim suit edition..yes it comes with your own 3d glasses can you say chubber
  13. is there any links on it right now..? I could think of a few weather related ones
  14. For some reason I dont get the same options of uploading the documents in the ice climbing sections...? This is in response to Dons comment in my roadside post WEll considering this is like the last couple weekends of climbing in lillooet,if that, +10 and rain on sat...yummy, ill finish it up. Also the lillooet station has been down since last weekend its a software problem and should be up and running soon. However I have made some good headway on obtaining some great data for the bridge and will get that up and running for next year, and almost have all the roadside stations along the duffey!! Heres this weeks excel file and ill update it tomorrow night again. And Dons right its been mighty warm. 3692-IceClimbingRoadTemperatures1.xls
  15. So they are planning on moving this to a pay only channel. If you enjoy being able to look at current temps and forecasted weather while holed up in some cheap motel somewhere in Canada then shoot them a mail. As usual it will take a few minutes but next time your on some trip and your wonderin what the next days temp/weather is or what the temp is in the morning...you will wish you had it. Cheers The Weather Network Support Page
  16. dont beat on WC, math isnt everyones best subject
  17. ya they pay more than that according to my math
  18. who buys or paints their car yellow anyways...
  19. thats a kick ass shot!!
  20. oh I was just going by what Don and Drew said about it, I can never remember from year to year
  21. come on man....thats classic shite!!!!! go out and buy that stuff, its like grade 8 all over again for me!!! Rhymin and Stealin oh better spell it out for ya..its off the licensed to ill album
  22. Do yo have the Alpine Select Book..? Wedge hut would be a fun place to base out of, Joffre hut proly overrun with skiers..
  23. James Turner with out skis in May..even Joffre..I dunno i think that would be hard..Drew?
  24. think it was the fattest ever this year..
×
×
  • Create New...