jmace
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Everything posted by jmace
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	Nice Hawks, nope I wouldnt! Nah, I pretty much avoid all outdoorsy women!! Its great, I buy lingerie instead synthetic long johns, its a no brainer
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	Jeez, dont you get enough of the person to have something that you do on your own...why does it have to be every goddam thing together. ITs nice to meet women who do their own shit and continue to do so after you meet them....not my last bf was a pro kayaker so I stopped climbing...to be with him
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	Nice to see pink balancing both worlds, highly rare and an exception. Nice pinky
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	Yes its a well known fact that are few to zero hot climbing girls...Mythos girl has it down pat: heres a couple reasons as stated by anthoer poster: The only thing Mythos girl missed was that although other sports girls can be hot, most are lesbians so it doesnt count. City girls Rock!!
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	Kevin grab the 8mm genesis for easy rock,otherwise I just take my twin(7.5mm) and fold it in half and climb 30m pitches which is about all you need on most alpine 5.8ish climbs
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Alpinist 19: The Consiltory Northwest Edition
jmace replied to olyclimber's topic in Climber's Board
Where the F*** is my copy - 
	Keep in mind the fr level forecast for the weekend ~ 2000m
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	Shreik and Night n Gale should be good, but with all the new snow maybe big avy hazard..not sure how much snow is up there...tell us if you go!!
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	Even less in Deadmans flats!!
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Alpinist 19: The Consiltory Northwest Edition
jmace replied to olyclimber's topic in Climber's Board
shit ya, wonder if ill have a copy when I get home.... - 
	Seems like Don is fairly unimpressed with this suggestion, why would you be ok with it Drew..?
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	That should be stopped immediatley!!! unless they are the high cut short shorts!
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	Twins for Alpine (7.5mm): Light and small to pack!! thats my main joy about using them. Great for loose/sharp rock. However Doubles will obviously work but you would have to place gear differently. Why I dont like Twins for Ice, can be quite hard to yard on two pieces of rope and clip them both, especially near the end of a pitch, and when they are wet. Also with the belayer always off to one side out of harms way I find that my ice pitches tend to wander a bit more (so I like using doubles), plus I Thought that twins put a bit more strain on pro than a single piece of rope..could be wrong Any ways, comes down to preference and weight, but really dont get hung up on learning how to belay with doubles..I find it quite easy to have my break hand with my pointer finger between each strand and my free hand feeds out either rope. I bought doubles as my first rope and use them everywhere including squamish. A singe rope really only works if your only going to be cragging, otherwise your gonna need two ropes..even on walk offs...what if you need to go down before the top, sucks to be short every time!
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	Hmm, maybe you need to come to BC...
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	Go doubles!!!! but youll need three sets of ropes anyways youll want an ok single for cragging, sport climbing, twins for alpine, and Doubles for ice and wandering routes. Managing doubles is nothing to worry about. Leading on them is no different than leading on singles, just place and clip whatever rope you want to. Note on WC post, just pull whatever rope the leader is clipping with your free hand, while your brake hand hold on to both ropes.
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	I was dreaming about morning ice and afternoon pow pow...anyways if anyone has skied by it what did ya see,if not whatever.. kinda hard to turn down so much fresh..
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	hey im the one that said that about the snow...maybe it all slid off and its just gleaming blue ice...
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	Havent seen any reports any one seen it or been on it lately..?
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	ya they had a snowfall warning in effect at 4pm yesterday for 20 - 25 cm overnight
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[TR] Duffey Lake Road - Duffeys Delight & Cowabunga Dude 2/18/2007
jmace replied to jmace's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Re: Bridge River, maybe cause its so freakn warm, I bet Night n Gale is good per Dons Report but it was 6.4c today at Carpenter lake...didnt get above freezing at cayoosh summit today! - 
	Trip: Duffey Lake Road - Duffeys Delight & Cowabunga Dude Date: 2/18/2007 Trip Report: Jeff and I thought we would have at least one more round up in lillooet before admitting the season was over, well its not quite over but getting there. We drove up Saturday morning with the intentions of doing Closet Secrets but as usual we puffed one too many and we decided on something a little closer to the road. Cowabunga Dude fit that description and after scanning the cliff side for potential large human seeking icicles we determined that most lay off to either side and the climb seemed relatively safe. Arriving at the base there was a short 10 m section with poor ice that Jeff led then it was just smooth hero ice for 70m. A really nice climb! Jeff leading the lower pitch of Cowabunga Dude Then it was off to the Renyolds for Beer and a bit of pool then back to the mile-o. The next morning dawnwed a tad cooler, at least the chinooking was gone and we made our way to Duffeys Delight, wow, what an amazing climb!!! A must do for sure!! Crampons and tools out 3 mins from the road make for a nice warm up. We just powered up till it got steep then a little more ice and rock brought us to the main attraction. Duffeys Delight Upper Pitches me getting it started Jeff on the upper Pitch then we just walked down and 2 rappels and we were home for the second period in the hockey game. Lots of washington folks up there and the only place we saw cars were parked at the rambles which looked great!! Gear Notes: ice gear Approach Notes: real tough
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	Never met a women that didnt like to be described as hot...
 
