artesonraju

Wayne prefers it hard and dirty - his climbing, that is! Thanks for the spectacular photo!

Wow! You got some beautiful shots there. It's nice to see some shots from up high on Artesonraju. Wayne1112 and I climbed the peak back in 1997. Looks like you might have had better snow than we did - unconsolidated sugar for 90% of the face. Unfortunately I dropped my camera on the way down at about 18K, and watched it bounce for 2000'. Bye-bye summit shots! Thanks for the memories!

WOW! A typical CC.com mudslinging fest has devolved into a constructive interaction. Major props to all parties involved! Next thing you know, Rick Santorum will be advocating women's reproductive rights and environmental causes!

Wow Tom and friends, just awesome!

Great Job, Guys! Looks like a lot of fun!

Looks pretty awesome, Wayne!

So, where was everybody?!! All on the WA side? Soloed Bent Screw this morning after searching for partners from there to Ainsworth! Black Dagger looks fatter than when Wayne and I climbed it three years ago.

Looking for a ride to Washington Pass area. Climbing partner driving from Eastside 1. Late Thursday 7/3; Early Friday 7/4 2. Washington Pass 3. U District, Seattle 4. 1 5. Possible, but not desirable Call Wayne1112 @ 206-818-1327 (He doesn't have internet access right now.

Wayne, I think that you should add the epilogue to your Yosemite jail story - entering Canada almost 20 years later.

Just moved to Pullman from Portland, and I would love to see the area and get out climbing. I don't know what you had in mind, but give me a call at 503-880-4756 if you want to chat. Cheers, Lane I tried to send a PM, but it wouldn't go through.

LOCUS XM_421860 2854 bp mRNA linear VRT 16-NOV-2006 DEFINITION PREDICTED: Gallus gallus similar to hypothetical protein FLJ23861 (LOC424004), mRNA. ACCESSION XM_421860 VERSION XM_421860.2 GI:118093283 KEYWORDS . SOURCE Gallus gallus (red jungle fowl) ORGANISM Gallus gallus Eukaryota; Metazoa; Chordata; Craniata; Vertebrata; Euteleostomi; Archosauria; Dinosauria; Saurischia; Theropoda; Coelurosauria; Aves; Neognathae; Galliformes; Phasianidae; Phasianinae; Gallus. COMMENT MODEL REFSEQ: This record is predicted by automated computational analysis. This record is derived from an annotated genomic sequence (NW_001471728) using gene prediction method: GNOMON, supported by mRNA and EST evidence. Also see: Documentation of NCBI's Annotation Process On Nov 16, 2006 this sequence version replaced gi:50750076. FEATURES Location/Qualifiers source 1..2854 /organism="Gallus gallus" /mol_type="mRNA" /strain="inbred line UCD001" /isolate="#256" /db_xref="taxon:9031" /chromosome="7" /sex="female" /common="red jungle fowl" /note="inbred line derived from a wild population of red jungle fowl in Malaysia in the late 1930s, with the possible introgression of a limited amount of White Leghorn genome during its captive breeding history" gene 1..2854 /gene="LOC424004" /note="Derived by automated computational analysis using gene prediction method: GNOMON. Supporting evidence includes similarity to: 2 mRNAs, 5 ESTs, 1 Protein" /db_xref="GeneID:424004" CDS 107..2854 /gene="LOC424004" /codon_start=1 /product="hypothetical protein" /protein_id="XP_421860.2" /db_xref="GI:118093284" /db_xref="GeneID:424004" /translation="MESDTTLCMENSRAVEEKIKEDSIARITCSVLGFPTAEPSLRNN IFSVQHFASPPSSKHYQSVLLMSTNSALSSKTGKQMKSGEPDCSRMRNALHNGADASF GQISHSGPEEQVKGEAFSETTSPNLAETQRLLDSNVTESGNAEEVRLLNDKWYKKNGF LGRALGVCAETIKGDLLHQILHGPSEGILSCAREEVYARLLQCVTKQQMEISRAKRTQ KRLQMLLAKHVIKHCDQQLKCFVKHQFQRMKLLHKPARFSSSSSLRCADGWPENTAAT LGSSSSADVQNGVCVAPGEIRGFALSAGGLLSRVEKDLDSDATCSSSDEDYDEQTVRT AVEASYTSEWKWLADRARIGSRWTWLQAQISELEYKIQQLTDLHRQIRATKGMVILEE FPFPKDILKKQIQLTDQEALLNATGNSQAAIERQDSLPEHDFEMSPSSPTLLLRNIEK QSAQLSEIISSLIAPLNLSPASALSSKTCRHRQLVNGISFRASDNREVSSSSSWLLDH QHIKKRRRDRTRLRSFSVTNVSTSARTRPLHSFQKRKLYRMHGACDWNPQTSSFRDTS CPYRTQLPCVVPPSALSSSEYSPESKMLDYVQELDSSFHPVLSFPSDIPLHIYFETLL RKDDVKGEPVDASYPGVEFKIAPENDYNHHNVALKRWNNSCLSNSKSQSVSGTSEQLS EGRKKRHLSETAVGERNTRFETFSFQHAEPESPSSFAAVTNINAMSRPTHSTSSQHNS RRRLRSESSYDIDNIVIPMSLVAPSKLEKLQYKEILTPSWRVVELEPLERSHADEEEA EDLSDEVFSSRHTKYEERERARWSLWEQSRWPRRNSRSYGKNADGRHGQDSVQKDHPG SSCASLHCAAEPVPDLTSEAHSSVCSGIAQLRRESQEAKVGGSGSFQSVQDLSDLRFF S" ORIGIN 1 ggtttgctgt aaactgccta cagtagctat aatgacacca gccctcagag aggcagcaac 61 aaaaggtcat ggtatccact tgtcaccttc tttgtcctct agagctatgg agtctgatac 121 aactttgtgc atggaaaatt ccagagcagt ggaagagaag ataaaagagg actccattgc 181 acggattact tgctcagtcc tggggttccc cactgctgag cccagcctca ggaataatat 241 cttcagcgtg cagcattttg cttctccacc atcctccaag cactatcagt ctgtcttgtt 301 aatgagtacc aactctgcgc ttagcagcaa aaccggtaag caaatgaaat cgggagagcc 361 tgactgctcc aggatgagaa atgcattaca taatggcgcc gacgcatcgt ttggtcagat 421 cagtcattca ggacctgagg aacaggtcaa aggggaagct ttttcagaga ccacatctcc 481 gaatttggca gaaacgcaaa gacttttgga ttcgaatgta actgaatccg gcaacgcaga 541 agaagtgcgg ctcttaaatg ataaatggta caagaagaat ggttttttgg gtagggctct 601 gggagtctgc gccgaaacaa taaaagggga tttattacac caaattcttc acgggccttc 661 agaagggatt ttgagctgtg cccgggagga ggtgtacgct cgcttactcc agtgtgtcac 721 taagcaacaa atggagatca gccgcgccaa aagaactcag aaacgtttac aaatgctcct 781 ggcaaagcat gttatcaaac actgtgatca gcagctgaag tgcttcgtaa aacatcagtt 841 tcaaagaatg aagcttttac acaagccagc caggttttcg agcagtagct ccctcaggtg 901 tgcggacggt tggccagaaa acactgcagc tactttggga agtagttcga gtgcggatgt 961 acagaatgga gtctgtgttg caccggggga gatccggggg tttgcccttt ctgctggagg 1021 gctgctgtct cgtgtggaaa aggatctgga ctccgatgca acgtgtagca gctcagatga 1081 agactatgat gaacagactg taagaacagc tgtggaagcc agctatactt ctgaatggaa 1141 gtggcttgca gacagagcta gaattggcag ccgttggaca tggcttcaag cccagatttc 1201 agaactagaa tacaaaatcc aacaactaac tgaccttcac aggcagatac gtgccaccaa 1261 ggggatggtg atcttagaag aattcccatt tccaaaagac attttgaaga agcaaataca 1321 gttgacagac caagaagctt tattaaacgc cacagggaat tcgcaagctg ccattgagag 1381 acaggattct ttgccggagc atgactttga aatgtcaccc agcagtccta ccctgctttt 1441 acgaaacata gaaaaacaga gtgcacaact gagtgaaatc atcagtagcc tcattgctcc 1501 tctcaacctg tctccagctt ctgctctgtc atccaaaact tgcaggcaca gacagctggt 1561 caatggcatc tccttcaggg cttcagacaa cagagaagta tcctcttcga gcagctggtt 1621 gcttgatcat cagcacatca agaaaagaag aagagacagg acaagactaa ggtctttttc 1681 cgtgactaat gtcagcacat ctgccagaac aaggccactt cacagtttcc agaagagaaa 1741 actctacaga atgcacggtg cctgtgactg gaatccgcag acttcatcat ttagagatac 1801 ctcctgtccg tacagaactc agttaccatg tgtggtgcca ccctcagcat tgagcagtag 1861 tgagtacagt ccggaatcta aaatgctgga ctacgtgcaa gagctggact cttccttcca 1921 tccagtccta tcattccctt cagatattcc tcttcacata tactttgaaa cattattaag 1981 gaaggatgac gtcaagggag aacctgttga tgcctcatat cctggagtgg agtttaaaat 2041 agctccagaa aatgactata atcaccataa tgttgctctt aaacgatgga acaatagctg 2101 tttatctaat tccaaatctc aatcagtgtc aggaacatct gagcagctgt cggaaggaag 2161 aaagaaaaga catctaagtg agacagcagt gggcgaacgt aacaccaggt ttgagacgtt 2221 ctcctttcaa catgcagaac cagaatcccc tagcagtttt gcagccgtga ccaatatcaa 2281 tgcgatgtct aggcccactc acagcacttc atcacagcat aactccagga ggaggctgag 2341 aagtgagagc tcctatgata tagacaacat tgttattcca atgtcactgg tggcaccgtc 2401 aaagttggag aaactgcagt acaaagaaat cctgacgcca agctggagag ttgttgaatt 2461 agaacctttg gaaagatctc atgcagatga agaagaggca gaagatctgt cagatgaagt 2521 gttttcctca cgccatacca agtatgaaga aagagagcga gcgaggtggt cgctgtggga 2581 gcagagccgc tggcccagaa ggaacagcag atcgtacggc aaaaatgctg atggacgaca 2641 cggccaagat tcggtgcaga aggaccaccc cggcagctcc tgtgcctcgc tgcactgcgc 2701 tgctgaacct gttcccgacc tgacttctga agcccacagc tctgtttgtt cagggattgc 2761 acaactccgc agggagagcc aggaagcaaa ggtgggtggt tctggtagct tccagtccgt 2821 tcaggacttg agtgacctcc ggttctttag ctaa //

Thanks Oly. I guess that I didn't downsize it quite enough!

Now I know why I have never tried to add an image to my post before! I'll try again later, unless somebody wants to fix it for me.

An epitaph to the General. Sigh. We're all going to miss him. I will always remember the view of Washington Pass in his eyes. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploads/5559/WashingtonPassthrought_theEyesoftheGeneral_copy.jpg

Hi Everyone: Thanks for all of the advice; keep it coming. Fortunately, I am not single (but that is only temporary if I move, at least according to Mike). And, it seems like a great place to raise kids (at least until our girl turns 13 and becomes fodder for the lecherous WSU guys!). I am used to the 4+ hour commutes to Leavenworth and the North Cascades, and it does seem like that would change. Might be able to get in more trips to the Bugs and Canadian Rockies. Don't need that much night life, but I will miss the Portland restaraunts!

Right now I live in Portland, but I have a great job offer at WSU in Pullman and I am considering the move. I know that it would be closer to climbing in Idaho, Montana, and Canada, and about the same distance to the Eastside Cascades. How's the local cragging? What do you Pullmanites think of the local scene (nightlife, culture, restaraunts, etc.)? Will I have to go up to the big city of Spokane for entertainment?

I had a L5-S1 laminectomy back in 1991 for a ruptured/bulging disk and sciatica. I had no pain or problems associated with the surgery, and I was up doing yard work within days and back climbing within 2 months. BUT - I was in grad school at Stanford at the time and the surgery was performed by one of the world's best neurosurgeons. While waiting in the office for post-op follow-ups, I heard many horror stories from patients that had used other surgeons - for these patients, surgery made their pain worse, and they were hoping that a great neurosurgeon could repair the damage done by previous botched surgeries. So, for me, the laminectomy worked great. But, choose your doctor wisely! Cheers, and I hope everything works out.

Happy Birthday, Mike. Hope that things work out for the best. Lane

Hey Hemp: We just spent a week on the North Island, and managed to fit in 2 days of climbing Wharepape ("Wh" is pronounced "f") South. This is about a 3 hour drive SE of Aukland. There is a bunch of cragging on overhanging ignimbrite pockets and some great trad climbing on cracks nearby as well. Bryce Martin runs a climber's hostel there and is a great (albeit opinionated) guy and a good resource since he put up many of the climbs over the past two decades. We also met a fantastic South African couple that live in Aukland, but spend a bunch of time climbing down there; I might be able to hook you up if you' re interested. The best climbing on the North Island is said to be at Whangamata Bay, although we did not make it there. I have two or three guidebooks; if you want to copy some info. drop me a PM. As far as tourist attractions go, the Black Water rafting in Waitomo Caves pretty cool. ZORBing in Rotarua was also pretty cool, although probably the most expensive thing I've ever done per unit time. Have a great time, and don't forget to drive on the left-hand side of the road! Especially when turning left! I speak from experience, and I'm glad my girlfriend is still alive! Have a great time, and PM me for any further info. Cheers, Lane P.S. I live in PDX.

Sounds like quite a trip! My car was hit by a deer in northern Idaho on the way to an ice climbing trip in the Rockies about this time last year. Fortunately, it only side swiped me, and we drug it out of the road before the semis squashed it. When the deer hit the snow bank, it came around and bounded off into the woods. FYI - At least in my case, a collision with a deer was considered an act of God, not an "at fault" accident, and it was covered under comprehensive insurance. Therefore, my rates did not increase.

Try Mountain Gear at 2002 N Division in Spokane. We stop by there almost every time on our way to the Canadian Rockies. They have a good selection of gear and a knowledgable staff.

I liked the original post better, Mike!

FWIW: I think Craig Luebben did a study a few years ago suggesting that one should NEVER tie-off and ice screw. In his tests, the sling ALWAYS cut on the hanger before the screw pulled out. Even with an inch of screw remaining out of the ice, it was better to clip the hanger. I think this study was publishe in Rock and Ice or Climbing a few years ago. Cheers

The route was great, and would have been even more enjoyable if we could have felt our fingers and toes through the crux pitches; it was in the mid-30's during the climb. I had to hang mid-way through the second pitch due to the screaming barfies as the circulation in my fingers was restored. The 2nd and 3rd pitches were incredibly sustained at 10b with very few rests, as reported. For a lot of the way, it is a thin hands crack, and probably relatively easier for people with small hands. With the ever increasing TILT, however, it is now an "Endurance" roof, rather than a slab! The road is gated at the river crossing, about 6 km before the climb, at least on Saturday. The mountain bike in was steep and rocky, with a lot of walking on the way in, and terrifying downhill in the deepening twilight on the way out. Go get it!

Funny you should ask. Wayne1112 & I went and checked on the Yak yesterday. There was a small amount of water on a couple of the upper pitches of Yak Check, but it was easily avoided. The wind was a bit chilly, but it was balmy as long as you were in the sun. Can we really call that a "winter" ascent?! Pictures to follow soon.