MCash

It was that funky chimney on the first pitch. A hold blew off on the face next to the first bolt.

That's a fine climb. Where are the pics at?? I need to format the rest of them. Here's one of a Portland climber working Chain Reaction.

They looked good to me. Safe Sex is still an easier rappel with no rope eating flakes.

Interesting. I climbed the seam below the grassy crack then traversed to the left to the flake when I saw the grass (though it was offroute). The flake was clean with good pro. My guess is people go that way now. Pretty sure we were on route on the first pitch as I belayed at the anchor in the exact spot as was on the topo.

Yeah, good point. I fixed that part.

Climb: Static Point-Lost Charms Date of Climb: 10/21/2006 Trip Report: My friend Bruce and I were were anxious to get in 1 last alpine outing this year before the weather turns to crap. The forecast looked great for Saturday so we decided on some climbing at either Darrington or Static Point. We had both been to Darrington many times so Static Point it was. Bruce had done Online before, so we checked out the other lines there. Fuddhat/Kill The Rabbit and Lost Charms both looked fun, but we decided on Lost Charms, mostly because it is a gear route. The approach took us a little under an hour at a nice relaxed pace. The cutoff for the climbers path going up the hill is marked with a cairn by the third culvert. We arrived at the base on Online and started our traverse over. It looked exposed in a couple spots so we roped up and scrambled accross to the base of the second major tree. I lead up the first pitch which consisted of traversing flake systems on a slab with a few cracks here and there for pro. We couldn't find the fixed pin in the topo. This pitch was a fairly dirty in spots. Bruce lead the second pitch which climbed a series of right facing flake systems up to the base of The Pillar, an obvious large detached section of granite. I lead up the next pitch jambing and liebacking up the right side of the pillar. I came to where I needed to traverse over to get on top of the bridge flake, but I couldn't figure out the way accross. The only thing I found was hard featureless slab and no protection. I traversed over and liebacked the thin crack on the left side of The Pillar to its top. Bruce following... We rapped off the bolt down to the top of the bridge flake and discovered our mistake. You are actually supposed to travers over to the bottom of the bridge flake then climb some face holds to get to the top. Woops. I lead up our 4th pitch traversing the top of the bridge flake then up the 5.6 tips crack, which was more like a seam, only allowing me a #1 and #2 ballnut placement in it. The pitch finishes up with a fun flake system. Maybe I did it wrong but this pitch felt more like 5.8 than 5.6. Bruce following it... Here is a photo I took of a climber leading the 2nd pitch of Shock Treatment. Bruce got the 5th pitch which was the 2nd 5.9 pitch. It starts with some fun left angling flake systems which you can finger traverse then reaches the route's only bolt. The bolt protects a few 5.9 slab moves then you undercling this fun offwidth lieback flake to the top. Bruce leading it... The last pitch traverses to the left then up a long thin flake then tops out at the top of the buttress at a bolted anchor. The flake portion of this pitch was pretty fun but the top is kinda grungy. Bruce following it... Overall, this climb is pretty good. The slab lines here look nice too. On the way down we TRed the 10b pitch of Online which was a lot of fun. Gear Notes: Set of cams to a #3 camalot #1 and #2 ballnuts are nice 1/2 set of nuts 2 60 meter ropes Approach Notes: Easy trail

Why would you lieback the crux? That's the best part of the route (nice finger jambs). Definately agree on the quality side. I can't think of a 5.9 at Tieton that's better.

Some recommendations for harder routes... I have only followed these 2, but they are both amazing. Jihad - 5.11a Lingerie - 5.11d (10d if stemmed)

Not even a competition. Middle East Wall

Marty's humor was just too subtle for you guys.

How do you get up there? Didn't a see a path. Maybe top out on the Mid Wall first?

So, did you climb it? I've checked it out and it looks really fun. Stemming and thin fingers. Any pics?

bwr and I were up at the Mid Wall last Thursday. Keith's Crack, Plum Pudding, Robin's Ramp, and several other lines look to all have been recently cleaned. That "0 star" 5.10 dihedral right of Plum Pudding and that 10C thin crack on the upper slab look great too. Both look like they were recently cleaned. Thanks for the great work up there!

Too general interest, and too many phototography snobs.

You could also simul rap the summit block.

Here's some help. Slesse Easier cracks on the South Spire Chimney on Rexford South Spire climbing

Nice job on Z Crack. Sounds like a fun day of climbing.

The East Ridge is rated 5.0 but probably has a couple mid 5th moves on it. I had no trouble going up and down ropeless. You won't need any rappels Joe.

The upper half of the buttress is more crack/flake and face climbing than slab. Slab is a lot of fun and makes a nice diversion from steep face and cracks.

Thank god Colombian has been retrobolted. That 4th class section would be heinous if I had to place my #4 friend up there. Though the friend placement was bomber, I was supersketched and was happy to just Clip-N-Go!

Sorry man, didn't mean to crap on your thread. City of Rocks is a fun place to climb.

dude that thing is sweet, it is not bad and flared it is great hands most of the way. It is not flared we soled that shit. The crack itself is shaped like a pig's water trough with a rounded bottom and the right side flares at about a 45 degree angle. That crack sucks! Here is a photo I took of a friend following it. As you can see the crack is exactly as I described it. Did you guys even climb it?

Sounds like a great trip! Colombia Crack is a nasty flared groove and seemed more like a 1 star route to me. Compare that to a true 4 star crack at The City like Bloody Fingers.

There are no bolts on Botany 101, so it's not that. That shit is nasty anyways, digging out fingerlocks with your nut tool for pro and holds plus mud stemming and root pulling in rock shoes.