MCash

1) Maybe lots of people at Summit Post are stupid. I know that Klenke and Allison both go there. 2) Maybe, also, people don't read trip reports there. Go there yourself, and tell me if it's a troll. I don't think so. I've read this before and was astonished by it. That TR was posted on SP before you could comment on trip reports. I've sure if it was posted now there would be many comments regarding the stupidity of the climbers and guides.

Anyone interested in hitting some dry rock on Sunshine Wall either Saturday, Sunday, or both? The forecast is looking pretty good. PM me. Martin

My highlight was driving to Snoqualmie Pass, bitching and moaning about the crappy snow conditions, then driving back home. It was rad.

Any update on alpine conditions? Any recent photos of Chair, the North Face of Snoqualmie, or Guye?

5.8 - Aires at Index 5.9 - Developing Arms at Tieton 5.10A - Angel Crack at Leavenworth and Libra Crack at Index 5.10B - Pack Animal Direct at Smith 5.10C - Living for the City at Tieton 5.10D - All of them

Sounds like you guys had a nice trip.

It's fun when you put yourself near the blast zone of a big one. Something like: you are consumed by the fireball, then your ashes get dropped into a massive crater, then those ashes are vaporized and turned into the melt pool, along with shaken by a Richter Scale 13 earthquake, blown apart by a 5,000 mile per hour shockwave, and burried under thousands of feet of ejecta particles.

You will enjoy creating some destruction. http://www.lpl.arizona.edu/impacteffects/ Enjoy!

Nice job Kurt. Thanks for all of the condition reports. So how R is it? How long of a section wouldn't take screws? Thanks.

BWR and I attempted Drury today. The river crossing looked too swift up near the drainage to cross, so we crossed on the western end of Lake Jolanda, near the buildings. It was frozen several inches thick. We pulled ourselves accross in the canoe using our tools. The ice was stress cracking a little, but it was fine. The 1/2 mile hike upstream through the brush sucked the big one! Bascially if you like postholing through fallen branches covered with snow and crossing rockfields with unconsolidated snow, smashing your shins into the granite, then this is the approach for you. Up the drainage to the base of the falls is more of the same. The upper section of the upper falls is in good. The lower portion of the upper falls is thin and has two freestanding pillars, one of each side. The lower falls is missing entire sections of ice. This route is nowhere close to being in condition. We need some meltwater and 3 weeks minimum.

Thanks for the update. I seriously doubt there is ice on Fugs, since the source for the water has dried up.

I bet Peewee Falls near the town of Metaline Falls is frozen. It has a good flow from Peewee Creek and it has been very cold up there for a while. Be prepared to lead 5+ ice though. Check the Banks Lake thread in the Ice Climbing Forum for current conditions there.

North Cascades

I have used the Ushba Basic for a couple years TR soloing. It is simple to use and works really well. Cheap too.

Thanks Josh. It sounds like you had a great time as well. Man it sucks coming back to the cold. It's hard to go from 80 degree beaches to thinking about iceclimbing.

What state is that in? I picked up a postcard during my last trip in Mexico. Its a watercolor of a colonial town with these red cliffs climbing up behind it. The caption says Tepoztlan, Morelos. Problem is, I haven't found any other mention of it anywhere in any travel books... It is in the Chiapas state, in the southern part of Mexico, maybe 150 kilometers west of Palenque. The limestone here is white. I'm sure there are countless areas throughout Mexico that could be developed if climbing ever caught on down there.

Yeah, it's pretty remote. Point taken. The beach stuff is easily accessible though with lots of fun stuff in the area to do like snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, beach bumming, etc.

Anyone ever tried it? The biggest adrenaline rush I've ever had climbing. Just got back from my honeymoon to Mexico and discovered this on the golden granite cliffs off Huatulco, due south of Oaxaca. The granite was cource textured and varied from slightly slabby to slightly overhanging. A large amount of the cracks are flaring but some were excellent climbing. Most of the routes are shorter, but some were about 100 foot high. I didn't try any really tall ones. One thing to note to note is you need to get on it early in the day before the surf builds and pounds you back into the cliff. The surfing hot spot Puerto Escondido is nearby and the waves can be big here. Another fun pursuit was beach bouldering. The granite tends to have few features so you have to stick to cracks and flakes. I would not recommend getting too high above the sand on the flakes as the granite here tends to exfoliate. (I ripped off a couple flakes). Fun stuff with nice soft sand for a great landing every time. Are there any local Washington areas that have beach bouldering? Also add the big limestone cliffs above the beautiful colonial town of San Cristobal de las Casas to the list of undeveloped areas. I didn't go up there but other smaller limestone walls were good quality. I got some interesting looks from the locals when asking about climbing them. From what I've gathered there has been no development.

Tieton: 5.7 - Mushmaker - Hand / fist. 5.8 - Ed's Jamb - 150 foot of 5.8 hands. 5.9 - Inca Roads - Fists to Fingers. 5.10A - MX - 150 foot of bitchen 5.10A fingers. 5.10B - Orange Sunshine - Fingers. 5.10C - Pure Joy - Thin Fingers and Liebacking.

Wenatchee

Hitler sent only V1. Hitler sent plenty of V2s, he was even working on the V3.

Gold C4

Hey Craig, I was there a couple of weekends ago. The first time back in a year. We tryed Sinsemilla for the first time, pretty sweet stemming and thin finger jambing. A bunch of us are going to The Bend in Tieton this weekend. Come and join us. Martin

Exposure is a demon? We are all going to burn in hell.

There are 3 limestone sport crags north of Spokane. There is also stuff in Idaho like Hell's Canyon.