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MCash

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Everything posted by MCash

  1. Karate Crack Pack Animal, Direct Start Crack of Infinity
  2. It looks like they added 1 grade to many of the routes since the FA. No wonder the Coulee has a reputation for soft grades.
  3. Why are you clipping bolts next to the ice instead of leading it with screws. Was the ice bad?
  4. I thought it was far funnier that it took Sprayshaw almost a month to come up with his Supertaco response.
  5. The East Face of Corteo is pretty dang fun for a class 3+ route. The rock is good after the traverse. Might be a good April climb, I think it averages around 55 to 60 degrees.
  6. Mid 50s on MGW / FH / Dihedrals / CB in the sun will feel like 70.
  7. Discovered some new places to climb like the Picket Range, Index, and Darrington.
  8. It is on Masters of Stone IV not V. V has Stef Davis and Dean Potter in it.
  9. So how many quality 5.8 to 5.10+ cracks are there in the Okanogan and Onion Creek areas? (I assume that is what you are talking about) Where can I get some beta for that area?
  10. Make sure that it is waterproof, breathable, and insulated. It is difficult to toprope 5.4s at The Feathers with a frozen rope. The length of sling should be proportional to the bag size and overall rope mass. For example, a 50 meter 9.2 rope can have a shorter sling since you need to open less of the bag to get it out, than say a 70 meter 10.5 rope. The bag should provide a harmoneous addition to your fashionable attire for the day. Try to choose a bag that compliments your Prana Top and Capri Pants that you wore that day. In addition, consider the location you are climbing at. Brown is highly dicouraged at Smith Rock and Vantage, since you won't be able to distinguish it from the ground. Photoshop
  11. http://www.climbingjtree.com/rock/db/lost_horse/imaginary_voyage_formation/imaginary_voyage.html ?
  12. Get an Epic rope tarp, so your rope can breathe.
  13. http://translate.google.com/translate?u=...Flanguage_tools
  14. The best part about climbing at Vantage on a day when it is raining in Seattle is that you get a true wilderness experience.
  15. How about the new Matt Kerns forum instead?
  16. They should atleast put the bolts on the right side of the arete so someone else's rope isn't 1 foot away from your right foot while you're on Pony Keg.
  17. Peter Puget = Matt Kerns?
  18. Today's article, with some more details. Original in Spanish: http://www.diariodecuyo.com.ar/home/new_noticia.php?noticia_id=122888 A decent Google English translation: http://translate.google.com/translate?u=...Flanguage_tools
  19. http://www.diariodecuyo.com.ar/home/new_noticia.php?noticia_id=122760 What a tradegy. Is this the local climber Carl Skoog? My condolences go out to the family.
  20. Cool. Will the new guide have the new 10 pitch 4 star crack routes on the outer towers in it, or do I need to wait until the next revision (2025) for that?
  21. A big ole hunk of beef grilled on my wife's cast iron grittle as the bivi area in Smith after a long day climbing. A little Lowry's, black peppercorns, and some crushed red pepper. Damn that was good!
  22. Orbit sucks. 1.5 good pitches and the rest is crap. Deb's Crack gets 2 stars and that thing is like 20 feet high.
  23. Thanks for the feedback on La Cucaracha. My guess is that the crack just left of center is correct and the crux of the route is right near the ground. Some corrections to the guidebook: 1. Gear to 2.5", not 1". There are a couple perfect hand jambs on it. 2. The bottom starts as wide fingers then goes to thin hands. There are no tight thin finger cracks on it. 3. 3 stars quality.
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