MCash

Heading up to Washington Pass soon, and I had a couple questions. Thanks for any help you can offer. 1. How is the 5.9 variation after the 5.8 crack? It says it's a lieback in Beckey. Is it a flake or a crack? Good jamming? Clean? 2. Will the bearhug pitch take a #2 Bigbro? Is it parallel sided? Trying to avoid lugging a #5 friend up there. 3. Any good variations after the bearhug pitch that can spice up the 4th to low 5th class climbing up there?

Cragging in Leavenworth in the nice sunny weather on Saturday and Sunday. Weatherman wrong again. Wow, Cocaine Crack is a great pitch!!! I can't believe that thing is rated only 2 stars, a really stellar fingercrack.

Geez Klenke, you leadfoot! Didn't you get a ticket on the way to meeting me in Leavenworth a few weeks ago too.

Yeah, why hike all the way over to SEWS. Link the Beckey Route on LB and the North Face on Concord. If you have extra time and are feeling good, try the Cave route on Concord or Overexposure on LB (both 5.8). That would give you the most bang for your buck, since they all start very close to each other.

A flash is when someone gives you beta for the climb, or you watch someone else climb it, then lead it clean on your first try. An onsite is also leading it clean on your first try, but without beta, or watching another climber.

Actually it's Andesite, which is half basalt.

Not current, but I climbed this route the second weekend in June last year, and it was in great condition. Very straightforward but fun. Max slope is about 50 degrees, mostly 35 to 40. The bergshrund crossing down low can sometimes be an issue. It is easy to bypass by getting on the Northwest Ridge and traversing over though. I would bet that it would be in good condition any weekend this month, unless it's after a big storm.

If you're looking for a substitute for Anasazi velcro, that it more comfortable and climbs cracks better, try the Madrock Frenzy. Edges just as well. I have both. The Frenzy was specifically deisgned to stand on a dime, the toebox is stiff. I got mine for $75. The rubber didn't last as long, that is the downfall with Madrock. Get it resoled with some thicker Stealth HF.

Hmmm, a daytrip should be fine on Saturday. I bet most of those concertgoers only climb sport anyways.

Nice climbing Doug. Where are you and Jeff off to next?

Concord Tower - North Face Black Peak - Northeast Ridge Triumph - Northeast Ridge (longer trip) West Ridge of Stuart (only 5.4, but a big mountain)

Can't understand the term "Get Lost" like Doolittle.

Please enlighten me. What are the advantages of HF over C4?

The WC Helium just came out, and it is stronger and lighter. Superwhat??? Edit: You're right it is heavier. I thought it was supposed to be the new lightest. Guess not. It is larger and stronger than the Superfly though.

It may be helpful if you post your experience level and what type of climbing you want to do. Bouldering? Sport or Trad Cragging? Alpine Rock? Snow and Ice Routes?

Great topo! Thanks. I didn't even see the bolts for belay #2. Must be getting blind. That explains how it is rated 5.8. My reaction when our 50 meter rope reached the ground on the back side with 1 foot to spare was quite enthusiastic.

Visited Peshastin for the first time on Saturday. Our last climb of the day was Lightning Crack on Grand Central Tower. Man, that second pitch is a nice lead. Anyways, the second pitch is supposed to be 5.8. The crack section seemed to be in that range, but the topout had me puzzled. Are you supposed to go directly up the slab where that piton is, or go up the flared crack on the right, or around to the left. Directly up the slab seemed to be 5.10, unless you pulled on that piton. I figured it out, but was wondering what the correct way of doing it is. The rock is horrible up near the rappel anchor. Fortunately the rest of the climb was great. Any ideas?

The flake is about 2 foot wide. I personally thought R&D was the perfect beginner route, and very unexposed. Maybe she is not ready for Givler's? Midway on Castle might be better. The first pitch belay on the top of Jello Tower is big and pretty flat. You can reach the top with a 60 meter rope from there.

Yep, what Greg says. The first pitch belay on that flake is a good stance, and very low exposure. All she has to do is break down one anchor, and clean 2 pitches. It's a piece of cake, go do it!

There was been major tectonic activity in that region since our ascent of over a year ago Klenke. That must explain the difference.

Dane, did you see this since it was modified?

Quicker to put on them making tape gloves. + Reusable + They are aid - They make your hands bigger (much more so than tape), so they suck on a perfect hands width crack. - On a crack just bigger than hands or fists, they give you a much better jamb, but that is aid. -

I put up a route page for the Northeast Buttress with some gear suggestions there. Check it out... http://www.summitpost.com/mountains/route_link.pl/route_id/2840/object_id/762

Yes, it does.

Interesting stuff, thanks Marty and Dane. I was at Tum Tum on Saturday and noticed several problems at the base of Deception. I had no idea there was stuff V11 or higher there. The well chalked routes at the base of Deception seemed quite moderate. I talked briefly to two guys bouldering there who were from Montana. They went uphill and east of Deception Crag. Is the hard stuff at the actual Tum Tum crag or accross the lake at McLellan? Any idea on when the McLellan guide is coming out?