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selkirk

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Everything posted by selkirk

  1. From the pullout you need to head to the climbers left. About 20ft up the main trail from the pullout you should see a small trail. Head a couple hundred yards down the trail (vaguely south-ish) and the crag will be on your right. As DPS said, bolted anchors on top, just below the lip. Have fun!
  2. Ran into iamgr8er and IceIceBaby out there on Saturday. Unluckily most of Banks lake is down to. The Punchbowl and Trotsky's were in. H2O2 was touching down but looked a little hollow at the top (might go for someone bolder than I). Everything else had a long ways to go Was good to run some laps and swing some tools none the less. Cheers
  3. Ooh, you forget "Ascent" the Biography of Willi Unsoeld. That dude rocked! He and Tom Hornbein's climb of the West Ridge of Everest was way ahead of it's time in many ways. Not to mention he was a local. So my Votes: "Ascent" Biography of Willi Unsoeld Feeding the Rat The Climb up to Hell (first climbing book I ever read )
  4. Bump... Anybody been out there recently? Cheers!
  5. Oh, and not to hijack that thread but hi Muffy! How are Thing 1 and 2?
  6. Not sure if it's been clearly asked, but how invested is she in trying to make the relationship work? It sounds like you are already invested and ready to work towards a better situation. If this is a short term blip (albeit big) but the long term situation might be good and you're both willing to have some patience and work at it, then i'd say an awful lot of patience, time and effort is justified. That said no mater how much work you do, if she isn't invested and willing to work at it that doesn't bode well. It takes 2 to make it work and only 1 to screw it up.
  7. Anybody been out to Vantage post pineapple express? Did Frenchman's or Fug's Survive? How about the Soap or Park lake areas? Any info would be appreciated! TIA Going to get my first ice in 2 years this weekend, totally stoked! :moondance:
  8. Somebody likes playing in the snow! Took her sledding and she grinned and giggled. Reasonably sure she's already and adrenalin junkie
  9. Tele is hard enough if you're used to downhill skiing. If you're coming at it from Snowboarding the lifts and a lesson or two are definitely worth while until you get comfortable. You might see if anyone offers one of those beginner packages for Tele like they do for skiing / snowboarding. Oh, and start doing lunges at the gym. After a year or two i'm still only good for a 1/2 day before my legs feel like noodles Have fun!
  10. Correction, Latest Internet Diva. And like all the others he'll eventually learn how not to be a lightning rod of arrogance and idiocy, or far more likely that if you are a lightning rod you shouldn't stand near Tesla coils. Funny, I don't recall posting that statement... Figure's I'd screw up the quote! That was num1mc, not you And children, that's one of the many reasons you shouldn't drink and spray:p
  11. Correction, Latest Internet Diva. And like all the others he'll eventually learn how not to be a lightning rod of arrogance and idiocy, or far more likely that if you are a lightning rod you shouldn't stand near Tesla coils.
  12. selkirk

    Dino Rossi

    hmmm, know a bunch of Dr's, and am related to a few. I might be for reducing pay, but then we had also better subsidize their education a little better (250K in student loans is a bit much), and treat them better as Intern's / residents (you know it's bad when they have to legislate that you can only average 80hrs/week over any 2 week period, which didn't really work anyway), and reign in med malpractice insurance (why there are no OB's in West Virginia anymore). What would be even better would be to flatten out the pay for specialists vs general practitioners.
  13. oooooh, s00ooo much virgin granite to bolt!!!! I wonder if Bill will let me borrow Lil' Dawg, or the newest toy?
  14. Anybody feel comfortable sharing what they make as Aerospace Contract engineers? I'm currently working Direct but the company direction is changing so it's time to transition and I'm trying to get a feel for what the what the pro's / con's are for Contract work. TIA Josh
  15. I does have 9 lives after all
  16. Not to be a downer but ... this just showed up on MSNBC. Seemed timely. linky linky
  17. always, always and always. I wear a helmet because while climbing occasionally shit falls from the sky (Rocks, carabiners, open pocket knives, ice, flakes, goats, cams, and occasionally me.) and I like my head without holes in it. Any way you cut it, unexpected shit happens and when things go bad they go very very bad very very fast. 1) First trip to Smith I saw somebody kick off a dinner table size flake from 1/2 way up a 1 pitch sport route and nearly squish his belayer. 2) Another trip to Smith I was topping out on in Zebra Zion, and pulled off a fist size chunk of rock and luckily held onto it. I distinctly remember looking down at all the people at the base of the Sunshine Wall lounging and sport climbing without helmets, and thinking, "that would be bad". 3) Scrambling on the approach to the Boulder Glacier (approach mind you) a buddy got clipped in the head with a fist sized rock while scrambling up the rock step (party induced rockfall). Turned out OK, but he had a splitting headache for a good day or two. 4) Way too many goats way too high in the Cascades.
  18. selkirk

    HEXES

    I always climb with the top 3 Wild Country curve hexes, and have placed them on everything up to overhanging 10a's. IMHO good hex placements are very confidence inspiring! For alpine I'm partial to them as I find them more flexible than cams in many ways. Good for all those odd pods, converging cracks, endless splitter's like outer space.
  19. I'll, add another vote or Zebra-Zion. One of the best climbs i've ever done anywhere. The exposure and climbing on the last pitch is incredible Overhanging jugs 400 ft off the ground with good pro make me
  20. Lots of good options in the northwest - Mountaineers, Boeing Alpine club (BoeAlps), Washington Alpine Club (WAC) all have both introductory and more advanced mountaineering courses. Personally I'm a Mounty and have been happy with their courses, but know a few BoeAlps and they seem to be good folks as well. The up side is that they are all long courses that really allow the information to sink in, and you get lots of repetition. Down side is that they are long courses that progress fairly slowly and have conservative approaches to things. For the Mounties, the cost of the course is pretty low, but the commitment tends to be high (quite a few weekends). These can all be a great place to start. Bigger cost is your personal gear. You can also always go through a guide service and hire someone for an intensive weekend. Commitment level is lower but the cost is higher. Once you know how to belay you can also volunteer to be a belay slave and can often find partners on here willing to teach a bit on cragging days. Have fun If you have questions about the Mounties let me know.
  21. Lots of good advice. If you're only buying 1 tool for all around - get a lightly used 1 or 2 year old quark / viper / cobra None are super specialized and all will perform well in just about any environment.
  22. To those with the Stamina, patience, and calling to teach To the rest of you arm chair quarterbacks And every educator I've talked to has made the same evaluation of Private schools. Usually they're hiring people who either aren't certified or for some other reason couldn't get hired into the public school system.
  23. not a total knot-nerd, but the warning on the page is "however, should be done with caution, as the loops can slip when loaded individually" sounds like potential extension to me... If you're looking for a douple loop type knot, you might consider a double figure 8 Double Figure 8 thought I think that could potentially have an issue where if one loop broke or was cut, it could pull through and compromise the other
  24. that's like saying Bacon tastes good.
  25. I don't ever intentionally take falls (gear or sport for that matter). To me gear is a great back up (whether they are bolts or nuts), but I've never felt comfortable exposing myself to risk just to do it. That said I'm willing to, and do fall on lead. I figure that if I continue to push myself and keep convincing myself to make one more move than I think I can (assuming the gear is good) and risk the fall, then I'll eventually log the falls I need to get comfortable. IMHO "Practice" falling seems like unnecessary risk in a sport where there is already plenty or risk to go around. I'd rather aid climb (which I've done a little of), or drop some sandbags onto good gear and see what happens. But Mark's comment is good. If you know you are about to head into a section where there is sparse gear (or you aren't able to stop and place it) then double or triple up your last piece, but that's just a good habit in general.
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