selkirk

Big difference from my gear set are probably: Pack (CCW Chernobyl) +1 lb Sleeping bag (0 deg Go lite ~ 3 lb) +2 lb Fuel (+6oz) (I knew I had too much going in due to late breaking party changes) Stove (whisper lite) +4 oz ? Pad (1x foam, 1x air) + 1 lb Hardshell Pants +12 oz Tent/Tarp (ID MK1 Lite) +2 lbs As usual the big hitters are Pack, Tent, and Sleeping bag. On the up side I slept warm and woke reasonably rested for our summit bid, so I can't bitch too much.

I'd love to know your'e gear / pack breakdown for how you manage a ~30lb pack. I'm by no means an ultralight expert, but I think I do OK, and still came it at around 40+ lbs. Could probably have trimmed a few pounds but 10+ would be a stretch.

For alpine sort of stuff i'd skip the Alpine Bod and go for BD Couloir. Same function, just as uncomfortable to hang in but lighter weight and more compactable Definitely not a harness if you're going to be whipping and or hanging in it though

Can't Wait Already have my copy and am drooling!

The Goose turned 2 last fall and thought X-mas was the bomb Couldn't be having more fun with her, but can't wait til she's big enough for a climbing harness

Hey that's my goal! I'm just not sure how anyone with toddlers gets out much! Some dads just abandon their family every weekend to climb. If it’s important, you’ll find a way. If it isn’t, you’ll find an excuse Merry X-mas NOLSe, and good luck in all your neutrino hunts.

Hey that's my goal! I'm just not sure how anyone with toddlers gets out much!

10,000 posts, what are you a gawd dam 99% er? You need get a job! Or at least a good bottle of whiskey to share.

hmmm, seems sketchy to lead on. Top roping or rapping would be fine. I seem to remember a story about Tommy Caldwell taking a whipper onto a 1/2 rope being used a single. It held, but destroyed the sheath. Some discussion on Mountain Project as well, one good comment suggested that it would be OK, but should be retired after 1 big fall if used in that fashion. Why not use a super skinny single? Just not worth the risk IMHO. Besides, how often is the weight really that important? is 1 additional pound the difference between sumitting or not or just a convenience?

I can't read anything you write due to the "distraction" image. damn! Not that we're complaining mind you.

Hard to go wrong with the new Camalots. I'm also a fan of the Metolius Super Cams as well (though some people aren't) The WC Helium friends look awfully sweet to. Tried a DMM Dragon and was quite nice, but I verall don't like the thumb stud so much, and I can see reslinging being a pain with only being able to use the skinny slings. All that said, most of my mid to large size cams are DMM 4CU's. Good quality gear and some of the cheapest on the market. In the large sizes (#4 DMM = old #3.5 Camalot) the DMM's are ~$55 a piece instead of $70 or $80 for a Camalot, and plenty durable. IMHO Link cams are great, but only in addition to a basic rack of something else. Too fiddly / maybe not durable enough to build your core rack on.

Those women obviously don't know many climbers

Go talk to Jim at Pro Mountain sports. Can't go wrong there Depending on what kind of Pack you have that can be easy way to cut lb's out of your kit as well. ..... (OK, so I was a super nice girl this year, and Santa is gonna be good to me.) ... must resist low hanging fruit comments!

Interesting post about Obama's non-action on gun control and how it's causing the NRA to hallucinate conspiracies NY Time Blog

Happened to us too, morning of Thanksgiving and we're sending out the hunting party looking for Turkey breasts And of course it wouldn't be Thanksgiving is someone didn't get sick: Tally to date: 1 case of stomach flu, 2 cases of regular flu, 1 bad cold Aww the joys of plague bearers (i.e. toddlers). I'm sure there will be more in the coming days!

You've got more gear than you probably need at this point! For most climbs I'd say only use a single set of nuts #4-13. Maybe ditch the bottom 2 or 3 sizes on the hexes since they overlap with the large nuts and are covered by cams as well (unless you know you need extra hand size pieces). Tri-cams are great to swap a few nuts out for on mellow alpine stuff but I don't use them cragging much. At some point you might want doubles in the #1 and #2 Camalot sizes, but even that would be optional, and if you're hooking up with someone else who climbs trad just borrow theirs. Best use of the $ would be gas to spend a lot of time climbing! And don't write off climbing better than 10a!! It's 90% believing that you can do it, being able to stay calm when the fear starts to creep in, having the mental toughness to make committing moves when it's safe, and having the presence of mind to climb and rest efficiently. It's not beyond anyone who puts their mind to it. The other 10% is footwork!

I've got the grey one Permanent place on my rack.

What he said! ymmv but .... Wild Country Zero's in the really smalls size (up to blue TCU) a mix of TCU's and Master Cams Blue to Red. A mix of DMM 4cu's, with 1x gold link cam and 1x Metolius Super Cam up to the #4 DMM 4 CU (Equivalent to an old #3.5 Camanlot or a new #4). I'm a big fan of the Super Cam. Always feels really solid, as easy to place as any other 4 CU and has a slightly increased range. The Link Cam is a nice toy, good as a 2nd piece in a wide range of sizes, but I wouldn't build my rack around them. The large DMM 4CU's are light, cheap, and reliable. I've used Dragons, mostly good, but I'm not a big fan of the thumb stud on any cam (old camalot, Link Cam's, and Dragons), but the size, action and weight are great. I've used tech friends I've used camalots IMHO a good rule of thumb is that quite a few people have successfully climbed harder routes than you on every brand of gear being bandied around here. None of it will hold you back, it's all solid and reliable. Bitching about differences between TCU's, Master Cam's, BD 3 CU's, Aliens, New Aliens, Dragons, Friends etc. Is like complaining that you got a got chocolate cupcake instead of an vanilla cupcake. STFU and eat you cupcake already, either that or give it to me!

I wouldn't go that far. The less you learn the more you'll fit in around here!

Climbers Left or Skiers Left? The Sunshine Wall and tilted Pillars are the Climbers Left of the chimney walkthrough so they're on the Skiers Right.

I've used a setup with 1 Jumar high attached to foot loops and something like a Petzl Shunt attached to my harness at waist level. Worked great No problems whatsoever. Not quite a slick as Ivan's setup with a pulley but it worked well. Once you get a up a few feet and have some rope weight underneath you the rope automatically feeds through the Shunt so you don't really have to pull much.

Stemming is the solution to everything. What's you're project?

54 posts since 2007, there's a dedicated member of the on-line community.

I'm amazed the Mountie bashing hasn't started yet. Self admitted Mountie here so there's my own Bias, and have been through Basic, and Intermediate. I've known folks in the Boe-alps and they always seemed reasonably competent. The few WAC things I've come across put me off a bit. All in all I've been pleased with both the Mounties basic course as I took almost 10 years ago, and even more pleased with what it has evolved into more recently. For the cost you get a lot of exposure to climbing over a long period of time, and it's being better tailored so that you can progress at you're own rate. It's also moved to more small group instruction based around Mentor groups (1 or more climb leaders / experienced climbers paired with a small group of students). I personally liked that the Basic / Intermediate courses was moderately paced and stretched out instead of trying to absorb everything all at once. It provided a good mechanism to reinforce the learning through repetition. The face of the club is also changing with progressively more offerings for higher end climbing with courses in big-wall, water ice, advanced alpine (5.9+). One of the advantages I've seen with courses like this is that they also allow you to connect with a group of people at a similar skill level and interest level. Many people start out climbing with the Mountaineers and they drift off to their own adventures once they establish a group of friends to climb with. To be perfectly honest I often climb with other Mountaineers, but almost never as a "Mountaineers" climb anymore. One other thing to keep in mind with regard to the Mounties in specific, is that I've gotten the impression that all bad behavior by any large group gets attributed to the Mounties, whether or not it's justified. Finally the Mounties, Boe-alps, etc. aren't professionals, they're volunteers so there is absolutely variability in the skill level and focus of the instructors, but there has been a very concerted effort to make sure that anyone who graduates from the courses has at least a basic minimum level of understanding, and like anything else, you very much get out of it what you put in. With regard to the RMI or guided trips up Rainier, I don't get the impression that much teaching goes on. More humping uphill as fast as you can go. I've heard great things about Hiring a guide for a weekend but I know when I started it wouldn't have been possible for me due to cost. As for "just keep going on trips" That's a given and should apply to any other learning you want to do. Based on your description I'd say you'd be at the advanced end of the Basic Climbing course (i.e. how not to kill others, belaying/rapelling, winter/snow camping, crampon and iceaxe use, etc.) and might find it a little to slow and you might be ready for the Intermediate course (leading on Rock and Ice, winter conditions and avy danger evaluation). One possibility is to get a Basic equivalency (easier now than it used to be) and jump straight to Intermediate. If you have more questions or want some additional detail just shoot me a pm. Cheers Now, where's my fireproof suit?

damnit, I only climbed the 1st pitch