wfinley

Some locals from Anchorage got stuck atop Barrile a couple years ago and had to bivy on the summit ridge. I was talking to the husband and he said "Oh... it wasn't that bad. Kind of nice out actually. My wife didn't like it though." Spent a night atop Aconcogua with my wife a couple years ago. It was a miserable night but she got inside of the snowcave so she actually slept a bit. I was stuck halfway in the cave and didn't sleep a wink. I wrote about it here.

This hilarious response comes to mind:

A climbing partner of mine quit his day job and started sewing bike packs a couple years ago. Now it's a full-time business and he never has time to go climbing anymore. However when he does find time to go climbing he usually cranks out a new climbing pack and some custom clothing a few days before the trip. Check out his gear here: http://www.revelatedesigns.com/

I would suggest buying a set of studs. I pretty much leave mine on from mid October through early May - and Anchorage roads are good compared to the AK Hwy. If you don't want to invest in the studs at the very least get some chains. As other have said -- be sure to stop at Liard.... it's an awesome place!

Yes - the obvious ramp is Malignant Gully. It's probably been skied. Lots of big descents back there if you take the time to get to them.

That's awesome! TRs like this always have me checking Expedia for flights.

3 questions: (1) how heavy? (2) what size ropes? (3) how would it be for icy ropes?

Maybe some walking partners will make you less grumpy.

If you're looking for new ropes I put together some info. I've been looking for a new set of alpine ropes due to core shots and loss of dry treatment. I read and read and in the end just went with comparisons. Rope data is below. Note that the Phoenix (8.0) is really light - but I think 8.0 ropes suck. They're hard to rap on when they get icy and I'd hate to lead on them as a single (and I'd really hate to jug up one). Go up in diameter and you can get Petzl ropes that are larger for less weight. Or if you're on Dragonfly ropes, suck up the extra 1.6 pounds (for the pair) and you can climb on the Mammut 8.5s which are (relative) fatties that will last a full season longer than 8.2 ropes. I had heard good things about the strength of Edelweiss ropes -- but they're just too heavy. i didn't even include the 8.5 Edelweiss because it's 48g/m and costs $210. Data is below.

John - maybe you'd have better luck posting on a locals only board: http://www.mtnclubak.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=cboard.cboard-create

Glacier is a beautiful park! However if you opt to head up that way check first to make sure the Going to the sun Road is open (usually opens in mid-June). If the road is not open it's hard to see much of the park.

Wow - thanks for the link. Sounds like an awesome place to visit. Great site - we'll certainly be perusing it while trying to figure out where to go.

Devils Tower is just across the South Dakota / Wyoming border. If you don't have a whole day to spend craggin you can get to the top and back down in 4ish hours. A great outing in a spectacular setting! After Devils Tower cut west through Yellowstone. When you hit the main Yellowstone road head south and drive to the Tetons. After the Tetons go over Teton Pass towards Idaho Falls and on towards City of Rocks. My only other suggestion is to pick a small town in Indiana where you can stop for breakfast at a local cafe. Pick the smallest town possible and walk in around 9am and sit at the bar. A great way to see part of America that you normally don't think of.

FYI - the comment deadline for the proposed Denali Free Increase is Jan. 31st 2011. The AF, AAC, and AMGA just released an excellent comment letter that can be downloaded here. More information is on the ACC site here: http://inclined.americanalpineclub.org/2011/01/climber-comments-needed/

Heading to England for a wedding in October and want to tack a European climbing trip onto it. We only have about 2 weeks and we're totally open to ideas. We mostly enjoy alpine rock but I realize October is a little late for this type of climbing... but we'd at least like longer moderate trad routes. Climbing in the 5.8 range... not against to clipping bolts and likewise not concerned about chilly conditions if the route is classic (but not interested in early season Cham ice). Suggestions for the those who've done the Euro climbing thing?

New site for the Mountaineering Club of Alaska: http://mtnclubak.org/ If you're coming to AK and plan on using the huts or want additional resources for obscure peaks then join & support the club for $15 / year.

Actually in 2002 the NPS addressed fixed draws in the Obed Climbing Management plan and while not banning them, they said they need to blend in with the area. However in 2005 they went a step further and banned fixed draws at the New. It's only a matter of time before a similar management policy is applied to USFS lands.

When climbing in the big mountains I swing back and forth... sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. I always fly into the range with one but whether I wear it or not depends on the route, the partner and the conditions. However I heard a pretty horrific story sometime back in regards to why you should climb with one: Two guys were in the Ruth and were hoping to climb Ham & Eggs. They set a high camp on the Root and a storm came in... long story short - they opted to descend in worsening conditions due to lack of food and fuel out of fear they'd get stuck up there if conditions got worse. They were rapping down a couloir when it aved above them. The ave destroyed the rap anchors and shredded the rope. The guy at the rap anchors hung on for dear life with his ice tools - but the guy who was rapping was swept away. After the ave ended the guy above downclimbed and started digging where the rope was... only the rope was shredded so he had to dig in multiple places before he finally found his partner. Luckily both climbers survived. The guy who told me the story said that from then on he wore his beacon on all routes. As for the idea that "beacons do nothing! if you need to be in the death zone, then you have alredy shown your ability!!" ... nice troll... If you really believe that you're an idiot. PS... below is a link to a write up of an ave accident in the AK Range and a note about the decision on not to carry a beacon. RIP Johnny. http://www.avalanche.org/data.php?date=2004-2005&sort=&id=30

Another nice line! How was it coming over from Eklutna? Where'd you come in from? DPS - the western Chugach is primarily composed of greywacke. An immature sedimentary rock not known for consistency.

Hell yeah! Here's the NE Face. To imagine a route up it is mind-boggling to me!

Sorry, no nakedness, just a little shameless self promotion. Nice pic! Congrats on being picked up by NG!

No way! Dave was my college roommate. He lives in Virginia now... I need to get out climbing with him again.

Yes - same for the Winds.

June is early... you'll encounter lots of snow and ice on the Exum (even more on the N. Ridge). You might be able to climb routes like The Snaz in Death Canyon and not worry about water and snow but it depends on the year. All the high routes will be wet and/or icy and require axe/crampons. Last time I was there was in late June 2009 and the higher routes all had a ton of snow. We climbed on a couple of the lower peaks and had good conditions. Pix from last week of June '09 below - still lots of snow on Owen & the Grand. More images from June here --- whereas here's the same route in August. June: June: August:

Yeah - photo was taken last April; there was a lot of snow in that valley last spring. The above was taken from somewhere on Raina --- here's a better one taken from somewhere on Peeking.