wfinley

@korup: Tests like you did don't really tell us much given that snow conditions vary so much. If you were on skis at Alpental I'm guessing it was during ski season - which would produce very different results than tests on October snow.

Look closely... you'll see differing prices. Summitclimb is cheaper becuase they offer a range of prices. For example... if you do everything yourself and just show up for an attempt then all you're paying for is a peak permit and an add-on so you don't have to deal with the logistics of getting a peak permit. If you want to show up and have porter support you pay more. If you want porter support plus meals it's more... etc. etc.. For example - their Ama Dablam costs are $6250 for "full service" or $2950 for "basic service". They also encourage you top pay "a little extra" for a personal sherpa. Everest has an even higher discrepancy... 33K for full, 18K for basic. As for prices... their prices aren't much different from other Nepal based groups. Sherpa Shangri-la (http://www.shangrilatrek.com/) probably charges more or less the same amount as Summit Climb. Big international guide companies don't offer flexibility... thus you pay full service plus an add on for Katmandu tours / hotels etc. (i.e. Adventure Consultants charges 9K for Ama Dablam).

Ahh... your description of the descent brings back memories I had suppressed .... I climbed it about 10 years ago and recall the guidebook had a lengthy description of the route and all of two sentences for the descent. We found the route totally straight forward but were gripped on the descent. The rap down to the col was shitty and once we reached the col we took one look at the nasty snice and opted to traverse under the cornices and snow bombs all the way to Athabasca (which in retrospect was pretty stupid). I seem to recall the rap stations were crappy and the rock less than desirable.

The mosquitoes are bad .... but they're not that bad. You guys need to go climb something in the Arctic if you want to really experience bad bugs. I carry one of these on bad bug trips up here. I had a head-net in the winds but never used it - bug dope was enough of a deterrent.

Genericized trademarks are pretty common throughout commerical culture. You can't necessarily equate genericized trademarks with brand preference. For example - what do you call a phillip's screwdriver?

Just going on what friends have told me - I don't actually have any first hand experience. My main reason for grouping was a combination of weight and durability. I'm pretty careless when it comes to caring for gear so it gets trashed pretty fast. Thus I lean towards heavier stuff so it lasts a little longer. PS - if you want more info on Stephenson google "Stephenson site:backpackinglight.com"

When I was looking I didn't include the Stephenson tents or the super light BD bivy tents (Firstlight etc.) in my list of tents becuase of their limited usage. Those tents are made for alpine / snow only and aren't so great in rainy environments. If I were looking only for a high alpine bivy tent I'd go with the Firstlight. That said -- if you want a good laugh email Stephenson's tents and request a catalog. Classy 70s marketing with lots of naked people in tents and sleeping bags.

I was going by average packed weight on the Black Diamond site and included the vestibule for everything. They list the tent as 5 lb 1 oz and the vestibule as 1 lb 6 oz.

I got a Nammatj 2 this past spring and used it in the AK Range. I loved it. Super light (under 6lbs) for a very roomy 2 person tent. I checked out the Jannu and was considering it but opted for the heavier fabric for Alaska Range trips. The Jannu looks quite bomb and is super light for the size. I'd consider either the Jannu or the Nallo over any single wall out there. FWIW I used an Integral Designs MKXL for years and was quite fond of it for winter trips. However it sucks for summer. PS - tent specs below for when I was looking at tents: Tent / Length (in) / Width (in) / Height (in) / Weight / Cost Integral Designs MK3 / 88 / 54 / 45 / 7 lbs / $700 Integral Designs MK1XL / 86 / 46 / 39 / 6lbs 1oz / $650 Bibler I-Tent / 82 / 48 / 42 / 6lbs 4oz / $700 Bibler Eldo / 87 / 51 / 43 / 7lbs 7oz / $700 Bibler Fitzroy / 93 / 60 / 40 / 8lbs 7oz / $800 Hilleberg Nallo 2 / 87 / 52 / 40 / 5lbs Hilleberg Nallo3 / 87 / 64 /42 / 5lbs / $580 Hilleberg Nammatj2 / 87 / 52 / 38 / 5lbs 5oz / $575 Hilleberg Nammatj3 / 87 / 64 / 42 / 6lbs 5oz / $615 Hilleberg Jannu / 93 / 57 / 40 / 6lbs / $735 Marmot Alpinist / 88 / 52 / 40 / 5 lbs 4 oz / $495 Sierra Designs Covert2 / 85 / 54 / 45 / 6lbs 10oz / $450 NF Mountain25 / 84 / 54 / 39 / 8 lbs 3 oz

Nice shot! Love the wide angle.

I've never climbed Cotopaxi but the Mexican volcanoes are very straight forward. We had a group of 12-14 year old kids follow us up to almost 17K on Itza and on the summit met two 15 or 16 year old Mexian kids in jeans. On Orizaba the only real danger is altitude. The climbing is max 45 degrees on snow and maybe glacier ice. Taking time to acclimatize when it's so easy to just start walking up is the crux.

Convicting someone of a crime that doesn't exist is a major screw up. I seriously doubt this guy will walk... he'll continue to serve time on his robbery conviction and will probably be retried. He'll still serve several years.

Bump for what we rapped off this weekend. Jammed cord knot in a crack. (Anchor is on the other side.)

Around 150 people / year die from peanut allergies and about 500 have died from lightening in the last 10 years so the Prison Planet story is pretty spot on.

I was camped at Squamish once and a Rufous Hummingbird somehow got inside the van at 6am and proceeded to buzz around frantically until we opened the door and let it out. An exciting wake up call! BTW - beautiful shot of the hummingbird -- it's super sharp!

Is that a big fall?

Cross posted from climbidaho.com.

Good on you for getting out an enjoying more of Alaska than just the Kahiltna. Heading out into the Sound after a glacier trip is a nice treat.

Wonderful photos! I had the chance to go to the City in 2009 and loved it. With a brother now living in Boise I'll have to visit it again. I seem to recall that Mystery Bolter had a "slip you'll land in a tree" start. I didn't dig it.

I just want to say that I think some people are taking liberties with the categories. Bouldering on the East Ridge of Conness? Cragging on Mt. Huntington?

Trip: Alaska Range - West Butt Date: 5/15/2011 Trip Report: In short... Headed into the AK Range to try Foraker. Chickened out on the initial couloirs. Decided to try the West Butt. Made it to 14K in 4 days. Spent 8 days in a tent in 50mph winds. Moved to 17K. Bonked. Woke to high winds. Ran from 17K down to BC in 10 hours and flew home to take a shower. [video:youtube]s-7qStHtvGA Some pix: More pix. Gear Notes: - Your feet get cold when Alveolite foam packs out - 400 pages is not enough for 8 storm days - Accept leftover food from the Army guys; the new MREs are pretty tasty Approach Notes: Gas up at the Roadhouse - fly in.

A chinook? Hovering? Heli-skiing? Huh?

An wonderful film of bike / ski / raft road to road Denali traverse. Better version here: http://thingstolucat.com/denali-traverse/ [video:youtube]vzys5WfTy4s

FWIW Silvretta 500s have a nicer release mechanism in the event of falls. The 404s were solid bindings - but many a climber has blown out a knee while flailing downhill with a heavy pack and sled in mountain boots. The 500s might be a couple hundred bucks more expensive but they're cheaper than a new meniscus.