wfinley

Was there last month & the mule services will provide while gas if you ask. It's probably a tad cheaper in Mendoza -- but that means you have to haul it with you. And I agree that the XGK is the way to go; it will boil your water much faster than a whisperlight.

Whoever you use for your mule service should provide white gas for you. As for the Whisperlight... it will work but it's going to be pretty whimpy at your high camp.

June is still ski season in the Tetons. If you're looking for rock routes then you're pretty limited; dry early season routes will be the routes in Death Valley, Cascade Canyon and - as others have mentioned - on Symmetry Spire. Other areas would include the routes W of Symmetry Spire like Peregrin Arete (St. John's or something like that). Some potential rock routes: The Snaz: 10a but apparently you can bail just prior to the crux pitch. Guides Wall: 5.8 - 10a; fun but crowded. Symmetry Spire SW Ridge: the other routes will be wet in June. Baxters Pinnacle: the guide says it's 5.9 but it's more like 5.6 with one move of 5.9 above a piton. This is a good 1/2 day climb. Peregrin Arete - 5.7 If you're looking at alpine routes then June would be a good time to climb the Koven route on Owen. Another good potential June route would be the couloir routes on Buck mountain. The classic lines on the higher peaks will all be snow covered so they'll be a bit spicier than normal. That said -- your best source for info is the Ranger station. Stop by and tell them what you're looking for and they'll give you enough ideas for a lifetime.

My wife just frostbit her big toes on a recent high altitude outing. We started out early with our boots too tight and at 20K our feet swelled and cut off circulation. We both removed boots and warmed them up on each others stomach - but apparently her feet never totally warmed up and she has frostbite on 2 toes. Prognosis is good (no skiing for a couple months but her toes will be fine) - and one thing we learned is that if you're venturing off into cold places and are a day or more away from help then add a dosage of Trental Pentoxifylline to your med kit. Pentoxifylline improves blood circulation and we met a couple people who swore that they had saved toes with it. The other thing we learned was that if it's cold (like below 5) then take 2 aspirin in the morning. Aspirin will thin the blood and reduce the risk of frostbite.

If you enjoyed the above, check out "Valentines Knight" (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/0263776700/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all) --- a main character is an ice climber destined to ascend a gnarly route in Valdez. the late great Andy Embick makes an appearance and is listed as a consultant. A must read for all Valdez bound ice climbers.

Just in time for Christmas... http://www.thinkgeek.com/geektoys/plush/bb2e/

I have the original Spot & have tested the OK feature all over Alaska and Wyoming. It works well and is small and light enough that I toss it in my pack on day trips just in case something happens. The new version is even tinier and in my opinion well worth the money. Being able to send an email or text message to your wife, dog sitter or whatever that says "I'm fine but won't be home tonight." is pretty nice. As for issues with reliability in terms of sending a signal - it's no different then a sat phone or GPS. If you understand how to use devices like GPS or sat phones and know enough to be in an area with a clear view of the sky and not be in a deep valley or whatever then it works great. In short... if I'm doing a big trip (i.e. fly-in alaska range or whatever) I carry a sat phone -- but if I'm doing a ski-in or backpacking trip or even a long day trip where we'll be 10 or so miles from a trailhead I carry my spot.

The owner of Serratus sold the brand to MEC some years ago. Production has since then been pushed offshore. ArcTeryx has also since moved most of its production offshore. I love my Serratus pack but it's sadly getting old. I recently got to work on a project with the ex-owner - Ross Wyborn. He's a really nice guy and he made great packs for many years.

I've had a spot for 2 years now. I've never used it in an emergency but I've tested the OK button all over the US and it works great. I toss it in the bottom of my pack and just leave it there. Hopefully I'll never use the 911 feature -- but if i did I'd press it but also send someone for help just in case the message didn't go through. Not having any type of confirmation would be rather disconcerting in the event of an emergency - but since few places in AK are within cell range I think it's worth having. If cell coverage was better I'd stick with a cell phone.

Last spring I got my wife an Arcteryx Fission jacket. They're around 22 oz. and unlike the Patagonia parkas totally waterproof which makes then nice for routes when it's snowing. She found it a tad hot to climb in -- but most of the time when climbing she only wears a shell (if that) so the belay jacket / puffy stays in the pack unless it's blowing or we're stopped / descending. Retail they're ungodly expensive ($699) but I scored one off SAC for $160 last April. They're not worth full retail but if you can find a used or cheap one they're nice.

This past spring I climbed Mt. Barille in the Ruth Gorge with some friends. I was the second one to the top and I crested to find my partner belaying with one hand while checking text messages on his iPhone. It was a total whiteout - the wind was howling 30mph and he was checking his text messages.

I'm not saying the climbing around Canmore isn't great --- I've climbed there 3 times and loved every minute of it. Lake Louise is great climbing - as is Yamnuska and Grassi Lakes and you have hundred of alternatives for longer alpine routes if the weather is good. (And if the high pressure looks like it will last then drive 4 hours to the Bugs!) And yes... August at the New can be hot! But it's no different then places like Thailand in November or the City in July.

I've climbed at Yam, Grassi Lakes, the Raptor area and at Lake Loise. The climbing is really fun -- but the rock does not compare to granite or quartzite sandstone. I love mountain climbing in and around Canmore -- but when it comes to cragging it doesn't compare to places like the New, Red or City of Rocks.

Be aware that the Summersville police recently imposed a ban on deep water soloing and cliff diving. Apparently they're boating around & ticketing people. Canmore is fun -- really fun, but the rock is choss. The overbolted routes are a great distraction from the run out alpine routes - but the rock quality doesn't compare to WV sandstone.

Go back to the New --- you know you're dying to revisit it and your kids should experience the place you learned to climb. You'll see half of the people you used to crag with and can always get old buddies to join you for a few days. If it's too hot or you're looking for multi-pitch you can always head to Seneca for a few days.

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I've climbed Blackburn & floated the Tana. The flight to Blackburn was $650 RT / person (4 people). The flight for the Tana was around $225 OW / person (10 people). We flew with Claus for Blackburn & Wrangell Mtn Air for the Tana. If I were to go there for skiing only I would go to the Nebesna Glacier and go for climbs / ski descents of Jarvis and Wrangel. FWIW combining a ski trip with a rafting trip in late May / early June could be tough in terms of conditions... early June on the Chitnia could potentially be raging (if it's sunny and warm) or a drag fest (if it's cold and cloudy). A better option might be to get a hop down to Jake's Bar at the confluence and then raft from there. If you did that you also wouldn't have to worry about a bear or porcupine eating your raft.

Agreed -- you need to embrace the rain! (More videos here.) [video:youtube] Although to be truthful... I get pretty down when it rains for weeks on end. Living in a maritime climate can be frustrating (the '08 summer in Alaska was terrible -- rain almost every day) but every now and then you get that spell of good weather and it makes up for all those days in the tent! But that's what travel is for: to go climbing in dry places!

No one pair of boots are going to climb and ski equally well. If they're good for climbing they suck for skiing and vice-versa. I do a fair amount of basecamp trips and I like to both ski and climb so on my trips I usually carry two sets of boots -- heavy AT boots and light climbing boots. The hard part is getting a pair of skis that do both equally well... but if the pilot likes you sometimes you can sneak on an extra pair of skis for the ski days.

I used to live next to this 85 year old woman who had an old dog that faithfully followed her around the yard. One afternoon i noticed the dog wasn't outside and asked her where her dog was. The dog had died of old age and the lady was heartbroken. She pointed to a tree and said that she had lived in the house 60 years and that she had buried 5 dogs under the tree. When I asked her if she was getting another one she said "I'm 85... I don't know if I could go through that again." Of course a few months later she had another dog and both she, and the dog, were as happy as ever.

Wow - thanks for all the suggestions! Lots to research and think about. Thanks again!

Australia does sound fun! Unfortunately my wife thinks that cragging is too "easy" so it's low on the list. Sometime back I found a really good website for climbing in Patagonia -- anyone know what the link it?

Yet another where to go topic... I'm looking at taking 3 or 4 weeks off in December and am looking for suggestions on where to go. I am totally open to ideas anywhere on the globe. We're literally open to any and all climbing suggestions... from the Polish Glacier to cragging in Australia. We're moderate climbers... in the 5.7ish range and comfy on moderate snow / ice and at high altitude on moderate snow / ice. Any suggestions for a December trip? If you could go anywhere, where would you go?

Those are awesome! Thanks for the link!

While you get bonus points for choosing the Seamus Heaney translation - there's nothing to avenge here. Dr. Houston lived a long rich life that most only aspire to. RIP Doctor.