Trent

Looks like the fishing season is off to a slow start; glad to see that you are keeping busy! Don't burn yourself out, I've got some good suffering planned for your return!

Looks like a lot of fun! I really enjoyed Slovenia when I was there; its one of Europe's hidden gems!

Awesome trip Scott! Wish I could have been there to enjoy the scenery and the company. Next year!

Dallas: When are you going to take me up? I have built my alpine walker and am ready to roll!

The McMurdo FastFind. Sells for $300: LINK

Trent, Was it needed or would it just have been nice to have? It ended up not being needed, but would have made the rescue quicker and the ensuing situation easier to manage. Another form of technology, a cell phone was actually used to initiate the rescue. For further edification see: LINK

Link to a good article concering manditory MLUs. I used to poo-poo technology in the backcountry, but having been in a situation this summer where a PLB would have been useful, I now carry one. It is light (5 oz) and GPS enabled. I can think of no good reason not to carry it.

Too bad there is not a wheelchair ramp; I would have been there for mutual support! But I do want to know where the leather pants are! This is proof of the theorem that without pain there is no pleasure. Oh, and nice climb!

Jason: You might be the first to finish the replulsive 69 with all of your recent bagging!

I am considering purchasing a PLB for mountaineering, kayaking, and aviation. Does anyone have any recommendations or personal experience with them? Thanks.

Nick: The trailhead is on the North side of the highway across from the Newhalem campground at the Goodell Creek group campground. Take the immediate left after crossing Goodell Creek if heading east on Hwy 20. Bear left, then right before the gravel pit. Park all the way at the end of the road by the creek, past the campground. Tickets have been issued for cars parked at the campground. Follow a faint trail through the campground, until it meets with the old road bed. Have a good trip.

For those of you willing to go the extra mile to get some free booty, there is some choice (not) gear on the Stoddard Buttress route on Mt Terror. For those wanting to abuse themselves for the small chance that they will actually find the stuff, here is what to expect: One rope: 8 mil 60 meter, small core shot at one end. Perfect for the winter tow rope for your beater. One set of boots: Scarpa Charmoz gtx size 9 1/2. Slightly worn. Good for a chew toy for the mutt. One day pack: Light REI brand, type unknown. Great for forcing one to pack light! Cams: At least one BD #1 cam, perhaps more! Needed for that awsome aid route youve been wanting to tick! Ice Axe: New BD Venom 65CM. Need that extra loaner? Crampons: Well used set of aluminums. Leave in your rig for that day when you forget yours! All gear needs to be claimed this season, or it might end up on the glacier. Happy hunting!

Wow! Thanks for posting! This is the best TR this year!

My condolences to Craig’s family and friends. My heart goes out to them, and I hope that they get the support that they need in this difficult time. As climbers we all accept a measure of risk presented by objective dangers that is difficult to quantify or even identify in some cases. This fact was highlighted to me on Mt Terror last month when I took a lead fall and broke both legs. Although I do not remember anything about what caused my fall, my climbing partners said that a large piece of the mountain calved off and I went with it. As a climber and a Navy carrier pilot, I have always taken the attitude that I can effectively manage the risk presented to me, and that I can learn from other’s mistakes and try not to repeat them. I thought that this would keep me safe enough. This is not always the case, as I found out. The fact is there are events that could occur that I cannot predict and have absolutely no control over, and these events could end my measly existence. Acceptance of this fact is extension of how I deal with my everyday life. If I knew that I was going to get into a fiery crash on tomorrow’s flight, I would not go flying, or even go to work. Even crossing a busy street (especially now in a wheelchair) presents one with some risk. If I knew that I was going to fall, I would not have climbed the aptly named Mt Terror. But it could happen. Understanding this and accepting the risk is a part of alpinism. But knowing the risk presented and making risk management decisions that are appropriate to the individual is critical. Some of us are willing to accept more risk than others both in life and in climbing. To me personally, the risks that I accept in climbing are worth the rewards that I reap.

Jason: Where are the pictures? I am bummed that I missed out. Still dreaming about the North Twin!

I would like to add my sincere appreciation and heart-felt thanks to Steph, Donn, the NPS and Kelly, and especially to Jason for being there for me when the chips were down making the tough calls to get me off of the peak and back to medical care as safely and as expeditiously as possible. I don't remember anything about the fall or the immediate aftermath, but the one memory that I do have is Jason's reassuring voice telling me that everthing was taken care of. I will always remember that voice and that tone. I don't think that the accident could have occured at a more remote spot in the Cascasdes, yet I was in a hospital bed being prepped for surgery by night-fall. I would not be here now if it were not for Jason's decision to stay on the peak and to risk his own well being for the short term surety of my rescue. One can not over emphasize the fact that one of climbings most important decisions are the climbing partners, but in this case I certanly won the lotto. Thanks Jason, Donn and Steph! I am looking for some partners to do the West Ridge of the North Twin in about a month and a half, if you can trust me not to fall! Sincerely, Steve.

Hello everyone: I would like to express my profound gratitude to Jason, Donn, and Steph for doing what had to be done in order to get me off of the mountain safely,and thanks that the rescue turned out well and Jason is back with us. To Jason, I am especially grateful. His willingness to sacrifice personal comfort and safety ensured my speedy rescue. I literally owe him my life. I can not remember anything about the fall, but I can remember Jason’s kind and reassuring words before the helo hauled me away. From my standpoint the rescue went well. From fall to hospital was less than six hours, and was executed quickly efficiently, and safely. Thank You.

Trip: Blackbeard Peak - North Ridge Date: 5/30/2009 Trip Report: Since I have not seen a TR on Blackbeard Peak lately, I thought that I would throw this one out there and update the masses on conditions. Having been away for over three months, being out of shape, and contracting some sort of foreign stomach bug, I was looking for a moderate alpine warm-up to get back into the mindset for the summer. Heinrich and crew were headed up to South Hozomeen for the weekend and invited me to accompany, but my memories of getting rained out and poking my eye out (it wasn’t even fun at that point) on the brushy descent were still all to fresh in my mind. So I gave Dallas a call. “Let me check the file” he said. Dallas does not have a little black book, instead he has an entire file cabinet filled with data and topos on prospective routes and climbs as well as beta on climbs that he has done. “I have the perfect one” he tells me. “The North Ridge on Blackbeard!” Well, first on my mind was where is Blackbeard, and do we have to wear pirate getup when climbing it? (And should I be posting in the pirate’s forum?) Although Blackbeard was not in my copy of the CAG, apparently it has made the third edition. Dallas has climbed the peak several times, and suggested the name Blackbeard for the location; near Black and Graybeard Peaks. The first known ascent of the peak was by John Roper and Ron Aronoff, who at the time suggested the name The Adolescent. A LINK to John's website with a good shot of the peak. It is the Peak labeled elevation 7241 1.7 miles northeast of Black Peak on the USGS maps, and is clearly visible from the North Cascades Highway. According to Dallas, they had climbed a couloir up the North Face, the North Ridge was still an unknown. This trip appealed to me. A moderate route up an easily accessed peak with Dallas. Dallas has always had good luck in the mountains, and at seventy still climbs well. We recruited Scott as our third, and we were off. Leaving Anacortes early we parked by mile post 155 on the North Cascades Highway and were post-holing through the rotten snow by 0630. Apologies for no overall route or mountain picture, my camera apparently was unhappy with the early wake-up and was punishing me with being unable to focus. The crux of the trip: After crossing the creek on a somewhat slippery log, we made a rightward traverse uphill to gain the ridge. Once on the ridge, the climbing was moderate and fun, with great views into the North Cascades. We encountered some steep snow punctuated with some scrambling, including a section of knife edge ridge. One step of low fifth class had us rope up. The rock was variable, in some places loose, but in others compact and solid. The Ridge: Dallas looking mean: The low fifth step: After making the summit and signing in (yes there is a summit register) in 4 ½ hours, we relaxed and took in the views. The descent starts off on the south side of the peak, and wraps around to get to the East Ridge. After re-crossing the creek on another log we were back at the truck with daylight and energy to spare. The perfect trip for me that day! Descending with Corteo Peak in the background: Another log! I would only recommend this climb as an early season outing. The combination of brush and exposed rock would make the climb a lot less enjoyable. Gear Notes: Ice axe, pickets, and a couple pieces of small pro. Approach Notes: Park at mile post 155, cross creek on a log, traverse right and up to gain ridge.

Jason: I'm jealous! I'll have to add this one to the list.

Chris: Sounds like a great trip; at least you all did more climbing than we did! Happy to hear that Jim was not out of play for too long. Go team geezer!

KK: Nice! You're way ahead of me now; I'll have to work hard when I get back. The trip looks awesome; good weather and interesting terrain. Did you guys get any good turns in?

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Date: 2/4/2009 Trip Report: Yesterday, Heinrich, A2THEK, Dallas and I climbed the NE Buttress of Chair Peak. Our original plan was one of the face routes on Sauk Mt, but with the snow berm plowed on the road intersection with the highway, we would have needed a sled to make it enjoyable. Living up north, I had never been behind Alpental during the winter. I was impressed with the ease of access, and the amount of climbing that can be done. The approach was easy, no flotation required. Dallas on the approach. Since we had two parties, we decided to do both variations to the start. Dallas watching Heinrich and A2 cue up. Heinrich belaying A2 A2 on the left variation. Tied off screws for the first 30 or so feet to a good cam. Dallas on the right variation. Heinrich overcoming the final difficulties Summit shot. The descent is down the standard route up the peak, which would be a fun climb also. Some downclimbing led to a rap down a gulley back to the packs. Conditions were great, except for being thin on the left start variation. A great day to play hooky with good friends in the mountains. Gear Notes: Brought: Three screws (used all three on the left start variation. The shorter the better), three pins, (used one), three cams (.5, .75, and 1 camalots, used two), five nuts, (used two), and two pickets (used both). Approach Notes: No flotation required.

Great TR and some awesome pictures! Oh, and a proud accomplishment too!

Peaks are from right to left: Larabee, American Border, Canadian Border.

OMG! Jens, are those fruit boots?