Trent

Climb: Mushroom Tower, Big Kangaroo, Melted Tower-Standard Date of Climb: 6/7/2006 Trip Report: Dallas and I climbed Big Kangaroo, Mushroom Tower and Melted Tower last Wednesday. Kangaroo Ridge from hwy 20 The approach was straightforward; we bore left to pick up a snow filled gully that leads to the upper bowl. It took us about 1 1/2 hours to reach the start of the climbing on Mushroom Tower. One pitch of mid fifth-class brought us to the expansive summit. The required rap is off of two ¼ bolts that looked like they could have been installed by the first ascentionists. Mushroom Tower from Big Kangaroo A short traverse and some scrambling led us to the summit block on Big Kangaroo. One mid fifth class pitch up a slab lead us to the knife-edge summit, where a single ¼ bolt awaited. The traverse on Big Kangaroo East face of Big Kangaroo from Melted Tower Another traverse left and down with one rap over a buttress took us to the approach gully for Melted Tower. An interesting 5.7 pitch led to the summit. A good anchor consisting of a slung tree for a rap station was a relief. Melted Tower Consider taking a bolt kit to back up or replace the antique gear up there. There is allot of elevation gain for not much technical climbing, but no waiting lines either. The technical climbing can be done with a 30 meter rope. Gear Notes: Ice axe, light alpine rack, 40 meter rope. Shoulda had bolt kit. Approach Notes: Mostly snow. Good early season to avoid scree.

Climb: Graybeard-North Face Date of Climb: 5/10/2006 Trip Report: Scott has had his eye on Graybeard for some time, and so jumped at the idea of an attempt when I mentioned it. Having to bail off of a climb seems to make it all that much more of a priority to get. I just liked the name (I thought it appropriate for our over 40 crew). Having had a great time in perfect conditions climbing Triple Couloirs on Dragontail the past week, we thought that the time was right. The weekend weather turned out to poor with some new snow, but the forecast called for a clearing trend with cool temps on Tuesday and Wednesday. Wednesday it was. After the requisite 0200 meeting in Anacortes, we hit the road for the Easy Pass trailhead. Rolling into the snow-covered pullout, we woke two poor pilgrims who were bivying on the asphalt, and were on the boot path by 0415. The trail was easy to follow, and Granite Creek was easily crossed on a Park Service prepped log. We easily boot packed up to the last small trees at the base of the climb and dumped our snow shoes and poles there. At 0530, after scoping the climb briefly with the new monocular, we decided to bear right if we could on the face. A quite impressive cornice blocked the exit on the direct line, but a line to the right looked like it could go. After a quick goo shot, we donned the crampons and followed some kicked steps up to the first ice. Scott freed it, but I felt more comfortable with a belay, so he dropped the rope for me (its always nice to have the rope gun along). We followed some nice buckets up the upper snow bowl to the base of the face proper. The decision was made to start to the left of what looked to be the main ice gully as recommended in Nelson’s book. I led up the first pitch of thin ice to a belay consisting of two useless pickets sunk in unconsolidated snow. After bringing up Scott, we decided to traverse right into what looked to be the main gully and try our luck there. A full rope length led Scott to what turned out to be our best belay; two stacked pins backed up by two nuts. While leading this pitch, a coffee can size piece of the hill came hurtling past Scott, barely missing him. Besides the occasional spindrift shower, this turned out to be the only thing that was rained down upon us. Scott again led the next pitch, which consisted of one full rope length on thin mixed ice to an open snowfield below what we surmised was the rock band described in Nelson’s book. After belaying Scott while breaking down the belay (we left the pins and a nut in case of retreat), I pulled the ultimate ice climbing faux pas and dropped one of my tools while unclipping it. At first it dropped to my boot where the pick was snagged on my shoelace. Trying not to breathe, I slowly bent over to reach it. Just as I was about ready to grab it, it popped loose and went for the big ride all the way down the face. I yelled up to Scott that I had dropped one of my tools. “Belay’s on!” was the faint reply. Well, I might as well give it a shot. Knowing the quality of the belay, I definitely did not want to fall. Using a combination of the one tool and the rope to keep me on the ice during the steeper sections, I managed to flail my way up the pitch, which consisted of thin rambly ice with the occasional marginal pro. After some discussion, it was decided to continue the climb and trade off tools for the leader. We had carried an ice hook that the follower could utilize for help during the steeper sections. Looking down, we saw another party of two approaching the base of the face. We endeavored not to drop anymore critical climbing devices. Looking up and seeing a steep rock-band, we decided to traverse right across a steep snowfield to try and bypass it at a weaker spot. We figured that this was the fifteen foot rock-band described in Nelson’s book as being more moderate to the right. The next pitch up was a full sixty meter run up a run-out mixed section with thin ice. As Scott put it, “Its OK for body weight.” Another pitch up led us over some better ice to a steep snow face. We kept waiting for (and wanting) the route to ease off, but it never did. The snow here was steep unconsolidated sugar snow over slabby rock. We were only about four hundred vertical feet from the top of the ridge, but the next five pitches took us over four hours. The wallowing was legendary. After Scott finally worked up under a rock headwall, I was able to sink two pins and swim out left underneath a small cornice and work my way up and over it to the ridge. A short scramble led us to the summit. We had spent just over twelve hours on route. The descent off the backside was a straightforward descent down a gully and traverse around to Easy Pass. After we arrived back at our gear stash in the valley, I discarded the idea of climbing back up to look for the lost tool. The other party had already descended, so we were unable to ask them, but I thought that if they had seen it, they would have dropped it at our gear cache. I considered it an offering to the mountain gods (along with three pins, two biners and a screamer). We arrived back at the highway at 2030 to quaff some home-brew in preparation for the drive home. Our approximate route: My impressions of the climb: The day we picked was a good one. Not much at all was coming down the face, and with the high overcast the temp stayed fairly low the whole day. Although occasionally we would encounter some thick stuff, for the most part the ice was thin and rotten. Between the thin ice, unconsolidated snow, and slabby rock, the pro was sparse and poor. The more aesthetic line straight up the face probably would have had better ice, but the rock band was steeper and surmounting the cornice would have been problematic. Gear Notes: Four pickets, six screws, five pins. Shoulda had third tool.

Dropped my BD Cobra off of the second headwall pitch on Greybeard in an apparent attempt to placate the mountian gods. If found in one piece, let me know. Thanks.

I recently broke one of my Fritschi Titanal IIs, and am looking for a replacement. I need one or a pair, preferably medium size, any condition as long as functional.

How did you get past the gate at Deer Creek (just past Silverton) on the Mtn. Loop Hwy? We were out there this weekend and were turned around there. The Snohomish County website states that the road was closed there in Jan, but this was the first time that I knew of it.

Skagit Alpine Club has a small but interesting web site at www.skagitalpineclub.com

Dallas Kloke has published a new guide book to Mt Erie. The Erie grocery has copies, or you can write to Dallas at: Dallas Kloke 4012 M Ave. Anacortes, WA 98221 or e-mail at dallaskloke1@verizon.net

Climb: Mt Shuksan-Sulfide Glacier Date of Climb: 2/17/2005 Trip Report: The forecast was for sunny weather the entire week, and I was itching to get out into the alpine and enjoy the sunshine. When Wade called and said that he had Thursday off, the planning started. Initially we thought about a ski tour of Yellow Astor Butte, but when a trip report came back as “not recommended” for snow conditions and approach hardships, we decided to try the Sulfide Glacier on Mt. Shuksan instead. Upon further discussion, we decided to leave open the possibility of a summit bid, although the extra weight we would be carrying would make the skiing somewhat more difficult. At the way too early hour of 0530, we met at the Sharpe’s Corner park and ride for the two-hour drive. We were able to drive all the way to the Shannon Ridge Trailhead at 2500 feet, and were booting up the trail at 0800. After about 800 feet of vertical, there was enough snow to throw the skis on and skin our way up onto the ridge. The trail initially travels through an old clear cut then enters and old growth forest at around 4000 feet. There was not a lot of snow here, but there was enough for good skinning. We reached the tree line about 1030, and stopped for a quick bite of lunch. A climb through a notch and a traverse around a peak on the ridge brought us to the glacier. The conditions were almost perfect without a cloud in the sky, and a light wind at the most. The temperature was almost too warm, even in a short sleeve shirt. The snow had a good crust over some loose sugar snow, which made for mostly excellent skinning. We reached the bottom of the summit pyramid at 1430, and stopped for a rest and a power bar. Only 800 feet to go! We started the crampon up at 1500. For the summit bid we had packed up the hill an eight mil sixty meter rope, and extra set of ice tools, harnesses and slings, crampons, pickets, and some pins. The central couloir on Shuksan is about 700 feet vertical at about 45-50 degrees. Starting up we decided to see how the conditions were, and belay if warranted. The conditions turned out to be optimal; perfect ice for front pointing the entire way up. We ended up free climbing the entire route, or at least Wade did. About 50 feet below the summit the couloir split. I took the right hand gully, while Wade continued with the left one. About 15 feet below the summit, I ran into a vertical step of rotten rime ice. I yelled over to Wade to ask him how his gully was looking. “It was OK!” I heard from the summit. Not wanting to down climb, I asked Wade to drop me the rope and belay me up. After some flailing around on the rotten ice, I joined Wade on the summit. Success at last Since we had made the summit at the late hour of 1620, we did not stay and enjoy the view for long. The time that we did have up there was well appreciated. The view was supreme, without a cloud in the sky, and the sun setting over Mt Baker. We decided to belay on the down climb past the steeper headwall, and then do a running belay for the rest of the downclimb. We were back at the skis at 1715. Hurrying to get the skis on in the fading light, we could not help but to stop to admire one of the finest sunsets I have ever seen. The exceptionally clear sky and the view from the glacier combined to provide us with one of Mother Nature’s grandest scenes. The ski down was tough. The crust that had been so good for skinning up now made turning difficult. The sun had set, and the moon only provided a dim flat light. After several face plants, I gave up turning on the steeper sections, and just cut the slope back and forth, making my turns slower and less frequent. We stopped below the notch to put our headlamps on, and again at the tree line to put our skins on to slow us on the descent through the trees. Skiing through trees by headlamp is an experience that every one should have. By this time our legs were trashed, and we had to be careful not to hurt ourselves trying to expedite the return to the car. I finally gave up skiing, and Wade concurred. We boot packed the rest of the way out, and returned to the car at 2030. When I think of winter climbing in the Cascades, I think of deep snow, high winds, and cold temperatures. This climb was anything but that. The low snow pack enabled us to drive to the trailhead and hike the trail quickly, while the clear warm weather made the outing seem more of a spring ski. A truly rare day, and a summit to boot. Gear Notes: Second ice tool, Rope, Crampons, Skis, Pickets. Approach Notes: The drive to the trailhead was uneventful. Aboout two inches of snow on the ground and no blow downs blocking the road.